Gary in NJ

With the lights on, yes. Less current is being used to drive the lights (parasitic loss) , so more current is available for other electrical components.

The paint under the grease looks better then the paint on the car. For $6,500 this car looks like in may be in need of a lot of attention.

I have no problem with wanting to be different. The Z I owned in the early 80's certainly fit that description. I just look at it this way; there are so few of these cars left, I hate to see one turned into something that strays too far from its original form. There is just so much beauty and elegance in the design. To me, its sacrilege.

Fuel leak? Is the return not returning to the tank? Do you smell fuel at any time while driving? Assuming you are not driving at WOT, I really can't think of any conditions that would return 7-1/2 mpg.

Why? What is the point of slamming a Z?

Coated headers would be a nice upgrade. If you do go with the manifold, strip out the air injection tubes at the very least.

As my mom use to say, the only stupid question is the one you DON"T ask. The search function is also very useful for stupid questions Welcome to the forums.

Without pictures, it never happened

I keep coming back to the throttle plate shafts. Did you ever actually check them? Did you change anything on the balance tube? It sure does sound like a vacuum leak to me.

When the engine heats up, grab the hoses. The top should be warmer then the bottom but if the bottom is cold, you have a stuck/frozen thermostat or a clog elsewhere in the system. If you suspect the thermostat, you can take the car for a drive without it to confirm it's not the pump or a clogged radiator. You can also check the accuracy of the thermostat by placing it in cool water and bringing towards a boil. Put a thermometer in the water and take note at what temperature it fully opens.

This must be another one of those areas where the 240 and 280 differ. On the 240, the belt circulates the harmonic balancer, alternator and water pump. Tension is adjusted via the alternator mount. If the 280 uses a separate belt tensionor, that could be the source of the squeal.

A bad throw-out bearing sounds like someone replaced the bearings with rocks. Squealing is usually the result of a worn or loose belt. If the belts are tight and show little wear, it could be the alternator itself.

Got ya I thought that the two outer screws provided clamping force, so I was surprised to find them tight. Now it all makes sense. Thanks guys.

I have the original optional Dual Racing Mirror set (99990-00113) on my '72. The mirror on the passenger side door has become flaccid - every time the door is closed the mirror changes position. I've looked for a friction lock on the bottom of the mirror but don't see it. Does anyone have any ideas to keep the mirror from flopping around?

I would think that paint is original because the lower stripe was an option.

It looks like you have some work a head of you, but it looks like you have a workable car. Enjoy.

$30 (sorry, someone had to give the smart-arse answer)

www.ztherapy.com

But adjusting SU's is just plain fun (seriously). I just enjoy tinkering with these mechanical marvels.

, you used the right gauge - the fuel pressure gauge. Did the fuel pressure change as the engine warmed up? Have you checked for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carbs? The reason I ask was you noted that the engine ran better when you restricted the airflow at the carb inlet.

Matt, Welcome to the classic Z club. I didn't notice it was your first post this morning. Good looking a car. I would treat your Z as you would any other car but keep in mind the following; it is a rare vehicle. Since you've chosen to make it a daily driver, you accept the risks associated with that type of use; i.e damage from door dings, shopping carts, people placing stuff on it and yes, theft and vandalism. In my garage, my Z is as safe as all of my other possessions. When outside, I don't let it out of my sight.

MSA (zcarparts.com) carries an air filter element for the OEM air box. In fact, they are a great resource for many parts for your Z.

That is a clean looking car. What's wrong with your wheels? In my opinion, they look PERFECT.

In my experience, once they go, they keep going. Are you saying this is the original seat cover, or just the original seat? I could see why you'd want to preserve the original cover, but beyond that, I'd just replace the cover.

Could be poor flow or pressure from the fuel pump. Easy to check with a flow gauge. I also would take the time to make sure the return line to the tank isn't clogged. That too would cause poor running only when warm (vapor lock).