Gary in NJ

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=333171#post333171 Bounce, your mechanic may be giving you sound advice. Based on the pictures from the thread above, you wouldn't want to invest in that car as it stands, especially if the frame is in the same condition as the body. However, if you enjoy driving the car and it only needs a few dollars here and there, I would perform "normal" maintenance. What is the condition of the frame? If the frame is structurally sound, I would invest to keep it running. Maybe even do a "cosmetic" restoration. But if the structure is the same condition as the body, tread lightly. Don't go overboard on a car whose last ride might be on the back of a flatbed truck. As they say in the medical field, you may want to tag it DNR.

A leakdown test (or differential compression test) can tell you specifically where a compression leak or problem exists. For example, if you provide a reference pressure of 70 psi @TDC, and the cylinder can not maintain 67 or more psi, you have a leak. If you hear air escaping through the exhaust you have an exhaust valve issue. If you hear air escaping through the crankcase ventilation system, you have ring blow-by. This type of test is more involved then a simple compression test, but is much more useful for diagnosing problems.

Looks like Diseazd is a good candidate for the position.

Yes, there is a difference between believing that you are deserving a car and EARNING a car. Please pass on the congratulations for attending such a fine institution.

Dangit! Sucker punched again by the spambot.

Good looking family. Be proud that your daughter sees the value in owning a classic car. So many kids today think they "deserve" a new car.

That is a rare ZX indeed. Most were sold with every option box checked (because that's how Nissan shipped 'em). It looks great in all of its 80's glory.

There's your problem.

Those numbers look unusually low. Was the engine working at all? I ask because I do not believe those values would support combustion. Do you perform the test at WOT? Is the compression check gauge in proper working order?

When I was a young lad I worked in an auto parts store. If you get yourself a job at a real old-school auto parts store as a counterman, you'll be amazed at how much you learn about cars. Moreover, you'll be in constant contact with mechanics of whom you can ask questions. I had a '69 Camaro and a '71 240Z when I worked as a counter man and learned a lot about keeping those cars alive and well.

If paranoia was a legitimate reason to replace things, I wouldn't have enough money to pay the mortgage on my house. If it's not broke, don't fix it. The gauge that sits above your radio, the ammeter, is your window to a properly working electrical system. As long as the needle continues to swing to the (+), your alternator is making power and the regulator is regulating how the power is delivered back to the battery.

It's been so long since I've had a Z in the snow (or rain for that matter) that I don't really remember how bad they are in the snow. But there is a voice in the back of my head saying 4 or 5 inches is the practical limit. I was a college student the last time I drove a Z in the snow and I do remember having to ask my roommates for a ride to campus during snow storms. I keep mine out of the wet not because of traction issues, but because I'd like to own it for many years without having to restore it.

Motorman, how did you get tapped for that shot?

I wouldn't miss Moorestown either I live in the NW part of the state where the roads are twisty and people are few-and-far in between. To beat this to death (something I enjoy), to me the basics are fuel, compression & spark - in that order. First I check if each is present, then I check the amount and timing.

Where the heck did you hear that? Welcome to the club. Stick around long enough and you too will have Z-sickness.

Choosing between a 240 or 280 really comes down to a few simple things. On the exterior you have a difference in bumpers and marker/turn/brake lights. On the interior there are some slight differences in materials and layout. The big difference is in the engine compartment and below the body - the drive train. Neither is "better" then the other, but they are different enough that they have a different audience. If you are going to be stuffing big horse power into the car, go with a 280. It's structure is a bit more stout and most importantly, you wont be screwing with a 240

I agree that checking basics is the place to start, but running down electrical problems when the carbs haven't been fully explored is a bit of a reach. It is entirely possible that the electrical problem noted above is coincidental and not causal. But you wont know for sure until "the basics" are checked and confirmed. Start at the beginning, not the middle.

Depends. The earliest of the 260's had a similar front fender as the 240, so there is an indentation for the wrap around bumper. The later 260's had the same bumper as the 280. The doors are plug and play.

That is a good deal. Same tire and size I use too. I wonder how long I can store tires?

A very clean car, no doubt. You got my favorite model of 260 (240 bumbers), a very good find. Given the appearance of the car in those photos, whether the car actually has 42,000 miles or not doesn't really matter, unless you paid a premium for those low miles. I'll be interested in seeing your photos of the car. Yhey may be more telling. The Webers do not require any additional maintenance, however they do require a mechanic that knows them. This is not a vehicle that you can bring to just any local mechanic. Let's throw a line out here: Are there any members in her area that know of (or perhaps are) a good mechanic with experience in Weber carbs? Changing the fluids, checking the hoses and safety equipment is probably a full day's work (5 to 8 hours) for a mechanic. I'd guess that you'd spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $500 as things may/will need to be replaced.

That big monster aircover (I assume you are referring to the orange OEM unit) works VERY well with the SU carbs. You will note that the airhorns are built into the OEM unit. The airbox is not a limiting factor in the induction system. If you are looking for individual air pods I'll be happy to sell you mine.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Z's. I'd have the entire car "gone-over" by a mechanic that knows these 40 year old beasts. Yes, by all means change the fluids and inspect the safety gear such as brakes, tires and suspension components. Also, don't be surprised if the car actually has 142,000 (or more) miles. The odometers in these cars only go to 5 digits. It is not uncommon for dealers to misrepresent the actual miles when they don't know the history of the car. I see it ALL the time on eBay.

Pictures, pictures and more pictures. Welcome and good luck. You'll find this site to be your best restoration tool.

Yeah, Arnie in TX posted a few weeks ago that he bought that heap...er...Fairlady. What's you plan for it?

Well, according to the badge on the front fender (behind the wheel) it's a 240Z. However, the hood has been modified and so have the break components. I'll go out on a limb here and say (judging by the NACA duct on the hood) that the engine has been swapped for a V8 too. Good looking car though. Good luck with your Z addiction.