JohnnyP

After removing the dashboard in my 76 280z I noticed the blower for the heat/AC wasn't working; it did in fact work before I removed the dash. First off, I do not currently have a belt for the AC so I know the problem there. But as for the blower in general, nothing happens when I turn the switch to 1, 2, 3 or 4. However, when I switch the control switch (whatever the switch is called that controls where the air comes from...) to the "AC" or "Recirculate" setting, I can hear a leaky air sound coming from the control console area. Not as if the blower is working, more subtle than that. I know my description might be frustrating but its sort of difficult to put to words :stupid:! I checked and rechecked all the connections for the blower motor and fan, as well as the fuses. I can't seem to pin point the exact problem. Any help and advice is always appreciated. Thanks again everyone! John

How is this for a replacement of a stock 1976 280z alternator? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Reman-Alternator-Nissan-Datsun-280Z-280ZX-1976-1977_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c51807fa6QQitemZ190345936806QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_4140wt_1165 Thank you, John

Just tested the alternator.....she bad.

Thank you, I'll check that out on my car as well!

I had a problem with a very rapid drain on my battery a few weeks ago on my 280. with the help of everyone here I managed to narrow it down to the voltage regulator. So, I tested it, and ended up having to replace it. Did so. Now for the current problem: I replaced the voltage regulator 4 days ago, the car ran fine, no problems. I kept the battery hooked up to see if the new regulator would do its job, and it did. So for 3 days my car would start up with the first turn of the key, no problems. Now, on the morning of the 4th day, totally dead. I went to start it up and nothing, not a turn over, not a clicking, nothing...just deadness. I checked and rechecked the connection on the voltage regulator. I also put a meter on the battery and its completely dead. Im at a loss of ideas right now. For now Im just going to see what I can see and try to figure it out, but any help or suggestions are always appreciated. I might need a little help on this one. Thank you in advance everyone, John

Before I disconnected the leads on the ignition switch, I drew a diagram(similar to a clock) of all their positions on a business card, so that I could reconnect them the proper way when that time came... I have misplaced that business card and now I don't know which leads go where. I looked through the whole FSM and my Haynes manual; its possible I might have just overlooked it. If anyone could assist me with this I would be very grateful. Thanks in advance!! John

sblake01, thanks for your help. John

Could this be just that part in the first picture I posted? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4208 John

As my dad was helping me remove the dash in my 280z, we took of the key ignition - connected to the steering column - and as he was removing the plugs from behind the unit, one of the male ends connected to the actual ignition (receptor? I am unsure of its correct name) came clean off. Does anyone have any ideas or previous experience with an incident like this, or possible know how I could fix it? Or am I just looking at having to replace the unit as a whole? In the first picture, the broken piece is one of those little "receptors". Is that whole unit available by itself? Its a 1976, for reference. Thanks in advanced all, John

I reversed the leads as suggested and the needle went to the extreme right (off the scale). I was reading my Haines manual for the car, and by the description of what the voltage regulator is supposed to do, it sounds like that could be my problem. The cut-out may not be functioning properly, therefore not stopping the draw of power from the battery. May be why the battery has been draining so rapidly. Am I on the right track? Everyones help has been invaluable, I have been learning a lot simply from this forum alone. Thanks again, John

UPDATED: Fully charged battery installed in car, with car on at 2500 RPM's, and with it off: 13v From ground to positive lead at the solenoid: 13v When I went to measure the amps from the negative terminal on the battery to the negative lead, the needle on the meter I was using went backwards (to the left). Im not sure what this means, but I would guess it means the meter is not strong enough? I removed the center console to get a look at the wires for where the stereo was. The PO really hacked up that harness. I taped off and caped the unused wire ends.

Battery charged and installed in the car, car running: 11.5-12 volts Ground to (+) on the solenoid: 11.5-12 volts The multimeter I have only reaches 250 milliamps, is this acceptable or should i just take it to have it load tested? I checked the continuity across the battery and I got a closed circuit. You mentioned improper installation of a stereo; I do not have a stereo installed at the moment, and most of the wires for it are exposed. Could this be a problem? Again, Im new to all this, so if that is a huge no-no, forgive my ignorance. Thanks for the help everyone, SteveJ your list of advice was well needed and used. John

SteveJ, your absolutely right. My last post was fairly uneducated and unnecessary. Here is what I did this morning: Jumped the car and let it run for about 10-12 min to charge the battery. After, I turned it off and had it sit for about an hour - hour and a half (all this time leaving the battery connected). When the car was both on/off I took these measurements: Battery + post to starter +, Starter + to Starter -, Starter - to battery -. When testing the starter to itself (car off), and to the battery (car off) I received no signal, and when testing only the battery (car off), again, nothing. So in about an hour and a half, my battery was drained. I retract my previous post, because I am almost sure the problem is in the cables, but I could be mistaken. The last thing I did was jump the car again, let it run for 10 minutes in hopes of recharging the batter (and when I go out to restart the Z, I will be able to see if I simply have a bad battery) and than parked it and completely disconnected the battery, which is now in my basement (no, not sitting on the cement )

Checked the alternator (while the car was running) and it is in good shape. Im getting a solid signal across the battery cables, although I do plan on replacing them soon. I believe the problem is in the starter. I will do some more searching on the problem just to be safe. If a bad starter is the case, what are my options for fixing this problem? Thanks once again, John

Another interesting tid-bit, when I tested the battery (just for kicks) its giving me a low signal. This leads me to believe that something is draining the battery. I tried using the body of the car as a ground to see if a bad wire somewhere might be transferring a charge onto the body of the car itself. No such luck. Any possible suggestions on where/how to narrow this problem down? In the meantime I will take the above advice and put it to work. Thanks a lot everyone, John

I posted a thread on here a few months ago having to do with my 280z not running. After checking the fusible links, battery cables, contacts, grounds, any and all other suggestions that were made, I decided to get my battery load tested (per suggestion) and sure enough it had really poor amperage. So i get the new battery and still the car just wont start on its own. When I jump it, it runs fine and I can start it maybe once after that, without a jump, and than nothing. Could this have something to do with the starter, or starter solenoid? Im not as experienced with cars as others, so Im trying to glean all the information I can, any help is really appreciated. Thank you, John

The furnace is in the basement, but I have prepared for that as well - considering the amount of chemicals that will be used down there. The furnace has been semi closed off from the remainder of the basement, enough so that it can breathe and be accessed, as well as keep MOST chemicals out of its way. The furnace is backed up to a wall, and in a corner, with two windows behind it, those will remain open. There are also other windows and a bulkhead that can be used if needed. John

I did check the fusible links, I had another problem and needed to eliminate the that part as a suspect. From what I can tell the fuses are good. Im not sure about the relays - I do not know where they are located or how exactly to check them. I am still getting used to the Z, and cars in general, please forgive my ignorance. Thanks for the link for the color wiring diagram above, that will most definitely come in handy. Thanks for the assistance everyone John

Well my basement is unfinished, and I reside with my parents, Im only 19! So I don't have a wife to worry about, just a concerned girlfriend who thinks Im getting in over my head . With that said, I have already begun to prepare the area where the engine will go, and, where parts will be cleaned and kept until the reassembly process takes place - I have a few tables down there. The area stays fairly warm throughout the winter, and because its unfinished, I don't really have to worry to much about the smell, or mess. John

Im getting all my engine rebuild literature lined up, and than, its off to borrow/rent an engine lift and stand (although I wish to buy a stand). I will be frequenting this forum for advice, tips and any bits of needed information as I move along. Wish me luck, I am about to embark on my first engine tear down and rebuild. I am looking forward to this winter! Thanks to all for your feedback and assistance, John

zhead240, I'll have to look around for one of those units, sounds very handy. The above link is the manual I hear a lot of nissan/datsun guys using, good responses all around. Look like Im going to have a very productive winter! Im looking forward to my first rebuild, Thanks again for the advice. I'll be sure to update as I begin, and as progress is made, maybe in a new thread? At any rate, everyones help is appreciated, and valued. John

Yeah I do plan on getting a "how to" for the L6. Seeing as this will be my first rebuild, I want to take my time, and do everything properly. I'd rather have spring time roll around and not be finished yet, than have to be shopping for a new engine. Now that I put more though into it, it doesn't seem like it will be to to difficult getting it in and out of the basement, given the proper steps are taken. Any recommendations for a good "how to" book? Are there any certain preparations I should take, before getting started? Thanks again for the help on this one, John

I've read about a lot of you doing some engine rebuilds in your basements (during these winter months), or garages, depending on your location. So, depending on how easily accessible your basement is, how do you get the engine there? I would really like to rebuild my L24 in my 280z, but my basement is only accessible from a bulk head (outside, obviously) or another staircase indoors, not the best option.. If anyone has been in my same position, do you have any advice for a young aspiring mechanic, on how to successfully transfer the engine? Happy Holidays, John

After some tinkering, I got my 76 280 running, she's looking good. However, I have almost no functioning interior electronics. Here is what DOES work (interior/exterior): Exterior ALL exterior lights Interior Fuel gauge Voltmeter (whatever its called) Im not getting any functionality from any other of the interior devices, no horn either (just a clicking sound from the pass side firewall). Im sorry if this is to vague, Im Im new to Z's, but I do know that this forum is amazing for helping with these wonderful machines! Any responses are appreciated. Thanks again, John

Darrel, you must be missing the Z already! What is the rule of thumb (that must follow) for winter driving? I have owned my 280z since August of this year. I don't plan on driving it in the winter, but was curious what others do?