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jray1942

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About jray1942

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    Indiana
  1. Yellow Fever, 90 degrees is close enough for me too! (ref Post #21) Thanks
  2. The Water Temperature Switch on my '75 280Z checks no continuity at any state, hot or cold and needs replaced. The only one I find is at the Z store for a 74 260Z. Will it work??
  3. Not very hard was it? I try to keep things simple in this complicated era. I tried your suggestion about the unit to no avail as I couldn't hear anything but I reinstalled it as I think I may have multiple issues. I just got this car and has been sitting for years. It's in fairly good condition for a 34 year old car. The PO has had it since 1976! and it has 48,000 actual miles. I spent the first 2 weeks getting the dash lights to work without blowing a fuse.(12 to be exact!) Finally discovered a very bad dealer wiring job that had someone connect what they used to call floating ground to
  4. sblake01 Thanks for the info. and your effort to check it out. I kinda thought that there had to be pressure of some sort after reading the FSM test for the unit but was trying to find an less complicated way. I'll try it again and get it closer to my ear. (I'm old you know!) Thanks again for the input.
  5. I have a '75 280Z w/ L28 engine. I removed the unit from manifold. Attached a 12v source across connectors. There was no 'click' heard. Valve can be actuated manually aganist internal spring an seems to be moving freely. Is the a correct test other than the complicated one used by the FSM?
  6. Not that easy. I just obtained this car for restoration. This issue bugged the previous owner and was one of the reasons I got it 'cheap'. He had jerked out the dimmer control thinking it was bad but it isn't an issue as it only effects the current in the lamp. I have reversed the wire to the dimmer just in case he had done that very thing but it should'nt matter as the only effect is to reverse the direction of illumination control. I'm going to lift the body ground wire today to see if that has any effect on my short with the G/W wire to see if I'm getting a false reading. Additional,
  7. I'm having a problem with my dash light circuit on my 1975 280Z. When ever any lights are turned on the 20amp fuse for the Lighting/dash lights burns out. All the running lights will work if I disconnect the dimmer resistor. Using the FSM ( Page BE22)I have done the following steps: Checked all lamps in circuit (Running lights as well as dash lights) for corrosion and have checked that all lamps are good by pulling out all gauges and testing them with an outside 12 volt source. Checked the dimmer control and registers good with 10 ohms at full resistance. Have checked the fuse block front an
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