FricFrac

I've designed and built several Mega Squirt harnesses for various Datsun projects. I'm an Electronics Engineering Technologist so I've designed these harnesses for optimal noise immunity with high grade wiring to provide you with a highly reliable backbone for your Mega Squirt EFI system. Electronic noise can cause all sorts of gremlins in your system. To eliminate these issues all harnesses are configured with a robust grounding system as well as shielded cabling for all sensors. The wiring is heat and chemical resistant to provide you with years of trouble free use. EV1 connectors for the injectors use the quick disconnect plugs for ease of installation and removal – no more fighting with wire clips. The basic harness is designed to plug into the stock sensors and injectors found on a stock L28ET engine. This includes the injectors, 82-83 dizzy with optical encoder wheel (allows the use of stock or custom encoder wheels), TPS (after market – stock is a throttle position switch – MS requires a throttle position sensor which is a potentiometer rather than a switch), CHTS, Knock sensor (wired to main connector but not hooked up – MS requires extra hardware for the knock sensor), ignition coil, IAT (after market – stock IAT is built into the AFM but should be removed due to air restriction – MS uses a MAP sensor so the AFM is not required) and WBO2 sensor and power. Connectors for the IAT, TPS and WBO2 will vary from installation to installation so the buyer can provide their own connectors for installation during the build of the harness or install them on the prepped associated cabling. Spares can be run for extra power, etc as requested. Harness also includes two relays. One will provide power for an ignition enabled fuse panel which will provide fused power for the MS ECU, injectors, ignition coil, WBO2 and fuel pump as well as spares for additional power nearby the ECU. The second relay provides ECU control and powers the fuel pump. This can be configured to plug directly into the stock body wiring harness on the 280ZX and control the stock fuel pump using the stock fuel pump wiring if requested. Optional custom cabling such as COP/CNP distributorless wiring is also available. Typically the connectors will be installed with filter caps in close proximity to the COP/CNP connector to eliminate back EMF from the coil discharge and integrated into the harness. Custom lengths and spacing for connectors can be built to the buyer’s specification. Basic harness is $550 including harness relay system. Basic customization is also included in this price. Additional cost for extra sub harnesses such as the COP/CNP is typically about $150. I can also build and test your MS 2/3/3x ECU and load a base tune but this will be limited to my time schedule and number of custom orders. This will allow the buyer to plug in the harness and ECU and get the car up and running (provided the car is mechanically functioning correctly) with minimal fuss. A proper dyno tune is highly recommended for optimal performance. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.

Just got some new connector kits in. I would like to donate the proceeds from the next two kits sold on this forum (minus $10 shipping) to World Vision - a charity I strongly believe in and have supported since I was a little kid. I would encourage you to consider supporting them as well and/or researching charitable organizations of your choice to make sure the majority of your donations go to those in need (Charity Navigator!).

Just an FYI to add to the thread. Great Stuff has a low expansion foam for windows and doors that would probably work better for this particular application.

I picked up another WB02 yesterday (didn't want to pull the one out of my 280ZXT MS3 setup). Haven't installed it yet but... I found the problem. The starters have a spring on them between the top plate and bottom plate and a circlip that keeps them from coming up off the shaft under the spring pressure. I made sure to align the tooth that seats onto the inner portion of the starter but the spring was pushing the top of the starter up too much and the tooth was disengaging. I'm getting a solid idle now - thanks guys! Bang on MadKaw! Now to tuning

Thanks guys - the wheels are turning now. I think the jetting is fine - it ran fine before I pulled the carbs off for a rebuild. The starters sound like they have the potiential to let significant air in to bring the RPMs up that high. I think a leaky throttle shaft wouldn't be that significant. I was pretty carefull with the linkage but I think I'll disconnect it all to take it out of the equation. I also left the booster hooked up on #6 so I'll disconnect that as well. I don't have a manonmeter but I did build my own with 6 MAP sensors like they use on the Mega Squirt ECUs. I works fine on the bench but when I hooked it up there are too many pulsations on the intake so I need to some averaging to dampen it out a bit.

I just rebuilt my triple Mikuni PHH 44s reinstalled and set the pilot screw to it's original setting of 1.25 turns out from bottom. The butter fly valves are completely closed and it will idle around 1000 RPM(ish) then it will idle right up to 2.5 to 3K RPM after a minute or so. That's with the starters turned off. If I play with the butter fly valve opening (idle set screw) and turn in the pilot screw to about 3/4 it seems to run but its rough. I haven't balanced it out yet. I'm trying to understand what's going on so a little direction on my misunderstandings would be great. My understanding is that the pilot screw adjusts the amount of air added to the mixture. Turn it in - less air. Turn it out - more air. So the part that confuses me is if I turn it in to 3/4 and open the butter fly valves it seems to run better. I can understand that the air is metered differently through the pilot screw adjustment than the butter fly valve but that would be at various RPMs. Shouldn't it be the same at idle? I rebuilt the carbs completely but I was told not to mess with the throttle plates and shafts so I never replaced the shaft seals. I'm assuming air could be leaking past the shaft but it never did before and I would think it would have to be a significant leak to go from 1000 RPM to 3000 RPM. Thanks guys any help is always appreciated! I'm dying to get this back on the road. The plan was to have it ready at the begining of the summer but I kept doing the "while I'm at it" .

He'll probably want the manuals from www.xenons130.com instead

I'm pretty close to a finished product with the S130 harness. I'll get to the S30 harness when I get a chance and keep you guys posted. For those waiting on backordered kits I have the S30/S130 kits in and I'll be doing an Z31 kit as well for those of you who have the Z31 ECU swap (or a Z31 ).

I am currently building a custom MegaSquirt harness for my Mega Squirt III setup on my car. I build an adapter to interface into the stock harness to get everything up and running as close to stock as possible. Once I had that working well I pulled all the stock harness out and I'm just about done building a new harness to directly plug into the MS3 ECU with MS3X for sequential injection and distributorless ignition. It interfaces directly with the stock body harness so you don't need to cut your harness up and can easily return the car to it's stock form. The stock engine harness is basically garbage. I have yet to see an original one where the shielding on the Dizzy side is still in good condition but given that it's exposed to the elements it's not fair to expect it too be. There is basically no shielding on anything other than the O2, the fuel pump control (don't care with MS) and the dizzy. An auto engine bay is full of EMI that can cause problems with any electronic fuel injection system. Look at a 240SX wiring diagram and you'll see that the manufacture shields almost all of the sensors. I've been researching a few other after market engine harnesses for other engines to see what the other guys have. The 2JZ, etc have a lot of after market stuff and they boast Raychem this and MIL spec that but only bits and pieces are they way they should be. I've seen a lot of "quality" harnesses that boast MIL spec and yet the sensor signals travel over a single vinyl coated wire. So again out of frustration we are left to do it ourselves. Fortunately this is my area of expertise and I'm currently developing a EMI hardened engine harness for the S130 and will be designing one for the S30 chassis. The basic design will allow for a plug and play to the stock body harness (on the S130 at this point in time - haven't done my homework on the S30 yet) to control the stock fuel pump relay and fuel pump circuit (the S30 harness will have it's own fuel pump control). It will have its own fuse system and relays. The main intent is performance first (EMI hardened and the highest quality cabling, etc) and asthetics as an important secondary. You should be able to pull out your stock S130 harness and plug this harness in with an excellent fit and finish. If you ever want to go back to a stock setup simply unplug the aftermarket and plug in the new harness - no cutting into anything. Currently the design has all sensors shielded and cabling for your Wideband 02 with fused power and shielded input. The knock sensor and CHTS are not used with MS3 but are included (shielded of course) in the harness should you wish to use them. There is the capability to unplug the injectors from a built in adapter to go from batch fire to plug directly into the 3X board for sequential injection. An optional crank fire or distributorless ignition harness is also being developed. Since each configuration may have slight variances as to where sensors are located each harness can be built for the particular application. Working on a custom car can be frustrating under normal circumstances but trying to chase electronic gremlins can be a nightmare even for an Electronics Engineer. The purpose here is to have a harness that starts you off from a solid base so you aren't chasing your tail and you can concentrate on the rest of your build. Let me know what you guys think and what you would like to see from a properly engineered quality custom harness.

The stock engine harness is basically garbage. I have yet to see an original one where the shielding on the Dizzy side is still in good condition but given that it's exposed to the elements it's not fair to expect it too be. There is basically no shielding on anything other than the O2, the fuel pump control (don't care with MS) and the dizzy. An auto engine bay is full of EMI that can cause problems with any electronic fuel injection system. Look at a 240SX wiring diagram and you'll see that the manufacture shields almost all of the sensors. I've been researching a few other after market engine harnesses for other engines to see what the other guys have. The 2JZ, etc have a lot of after market stuff and they boast Raychem this and MIL spec that but only bits and pieces are they way they should be. I've seen a lot of "quality" harnesses that boast MIL spec and yet the sensor signals travel over a single vinyl coated wire. So again out of frustration we are left to do it ourselves. Fortunately this is my area of expertise and I'm currently developing a EMI hardened engine harness for the S130 and will be designing one for the S30 chassis. The basic design will allow for a plug and play to the stock body harness (on the S130 at this point in time - haven't done my homework on the S30 yet) to control the stock fuel pump relay and fuel pump circuit (the S30 harness will have it's own fuel pump control). It will have its own fuse system and relays. The main intent is performance first (EMI hardened and the highest quality cabling, etc) and asthetics as an important secondary. You should be able to pull out your stock S130 harness and plug this harness in with an excellent fit and finish. If you ever want to go back to a stock setup simply unplug the aftermarket and plug in the new harness - no cutting into anything. Currently the design has all sensors shielded and cabling for your Wideband 02 with fused power and shielded input. The knock sensor and CHTS are not used with MS3 if you have an L28ET swap but are included (shielded of course) in the harness should you wish to use them. There is the capability to unplug the injectors from a built in adapter to go from batch fire to plug directly into the 3X board for sequential injection. An optional crank fire or distributorless ignition harness is also being developed. Since each configuration may have slight variances as to where sensors are located each harness can be built for the particular application. Working on a custom car can be frustrating under normal circumstances but trying to chase electronic gremlins can be a nightmare even for an Electronics Engineer. The purpose here is to have a harness that starts you off from a solid base so you aren't chasing your tail and you can concentrate on the rest of your build. Let me know what you guys think and what you would like to see from a properly engineered quality custom harness. The early S30's didn't have a fuel pump relay so that will be included. For the 280Z the relay will drive the stock relay and invert the logic as the stock one requires +12V to turn on rather than grounding one side which is what the MegaSquirt does.

Haha - of that $80K $56K is for climate controled storage - the guy says the previous owner drove it home and parked it in his garage for 21 years. I guess he was charging himself $150 a month for 21 years. Must work for the Government to come up with numbers like that. I'd rather have the Porn Star Red or the hideous Blue interior than that brown. That's one lesson we learned from the 80's. If it was a turbo then he might have something ;P

I can definately do harness repair. I would think shipping back and forth would be expensive though. Right now I'm making a custom wiring harness for S130 for plug and play MegaSquirt setup then I'll be developing an S30 kit as well.

*** Please note I've had to make some minor adjustments to the kit pricing unfortunatly. The kit will increase from $50 to $55 to cover Paypal fees and Air postage which cuts shipping time in half or less as well as insurance. In addition I've had a few requests for some other options with the kit. For those who would like a trackable insured shipment there is an additional $15 fee (and I believe shipping time is reduced to 4-6 days). If you don't feel comfortable soldering pin to wire I can add pigtails (a six inch piece of wire coming out of the connector) so you can solder wire to wire for an additional $10. The pig tails take about 45 minutes to do. These are professionaly fabricated (crimped and soldered) and populated into your connector ready to go. I highly recomend water proof heat shrink (heat shrink with a meltable inner jacket). I can supply it for $5 per kit (24 pieces) for as long as my current stock remains then I may need to adjust the price. You will only need the heat shrink if you are using pig tails and need to water proof your solder joints. You should be able to get water proof heat shrink as well at your local electronics supplier.

I'll make a video on how to wire in the pig tails and water proof those but it will be a little while before I can get to that. I'm getting everyone's orders ready to mail out as my number one priority.

Ok I made a little video up to give you some pointers on repairing your wiring harness. I did the AFM which is the most complicated of the ones we'll be replacing. It's a little embarasing because I messed up the connector trying to keep the video time short but I left it in. It's a good reminder to make sure you've got everything in place before you solder or crimp your connector on. I do this sort of work all the time and I should know better - shows you what happens when you rush. Anyhow if you have any questions the video doesn't answer feel free to ask!

Those will work. The die is the right shape but the crimpers I use have a set of six for the wire and a set of six for the insulated portion of the pin. I recomend crimping and hitting them with solder but just enough to bond to the pin and wire not a blob and not enough to run up the wire into the insulated portion. I can add a pig tail to the connectors for those who aren't comfortable soldering the wire to the pin

I've managed to source connectors for the stock engine wiring harness for the early FI S30 and S130 cars. I'm just posting here to see if anyone else would be interested in a kit and I'll order in some extras. The kit will include nine EV1 connectors for the fuel injectors, cold start valve, idle air and thermal switch, a three pin connector for the TPS and the seven pin AFM connector. I'm redoing all the connectors on all my harnesses and I ordered in extra connectors for a few members on the forum who requested a kit. Price will be $50 shipped in US/Canada. There is well over $100 worth of connectors so this is a great deal. If you have a 280Z, 280ZX or engine swap EFI and you haven't replaced the 30+ year old connectors on your car yet you need this kit! A lot of the problems on the car have to do with corroded or loose connectors. Cleaning the male side of the plugs is possible on the AFM, injectors, TPS, etc however cleaning the female side on the connector is difficult and doesn't often last. The reason is that the male connector is easily accessable and are usually solid brass. These can be cleaned/polished to new condition. The connector side is plated and the disimilar metals cause corrosion and the plating is destroyed in the process. Cleaning the corrosion is difficult because they are physically difficult to access and with the plated material missing the base material will quickly corrode and the problems will come back. A lot of the problems associated with the idle and running of the car are associated with the AFM connector. Often the clip from the connector is missing causing poor a poor connection which can cause intermittant faults which are often difficult to track down. The replacement AFM connector includes the new body and clip as well as new pins to get rid of the many problems this connection causes. I would also highly recomend replacing the stock negative battery cable with a heavy cable to the starter and one to the chassis. I also recomend a ground cable from the chassis where the battery cable mounts to the ECU and from the ECU to the ground point for all the sensors on the manifold near the Idle air valve. Replace all the connectors with this kit and you have an excellent base for your electronic fuel injection system. Replacing your connectors isn't going to solve all your electrical problems but it will give you a good solid base and eliminate a lot of potential problems and prevent future problems.

It's fairly straight forward actually. Go to www.xenonz31.com and download the FSM. Go to the BF section and all the hook up information for both the partial and full power seats are listed there. Basically all the complexity is built into the seat and you need to supply a good ground and +12V fused from the ignition switched side (unless you want power to the seats with the ignition off). There is a circuit breaker - not sure if it's in the seat or not but if you look at the back of the EL section it should tell you where it's located.

I was going to watch this until I saw some pictures. What a joke. It's really an example of stick with what you know. The guys that built the white car are tallented but not tallented enough to move away from muscle cars. That would have been fine as a prop for a Dr Seuss movie... seriously what were they thinking?

That's like comparing apples to squirt guns.... there are no parameters.... yes a Mustang will beat a Z and a Z will beat a Mustang.... which one were you thinking of...??? The Mustang 5.0 will do 0-60 in 4.3 whereas the stock 370Z will do it in 4.7 but who cares? I'd rather go around the corners or parked in the garage with a 370Z than have a Mustang. They are a dime a dozen and the looks haven't been updated for 15+ years, interior looks like a 60's car and don't they still have a live rear axel? Sure its a cheap fun car but I'd like a little more refinement in a new vehicle....

The MSA bodykit is a comprimise of keeping the stock bumpers but compressing the dampners to pull the steal bumper in. If you want some sort of chrome bumper it's going to have to be custom and it's going to be very expensive. Possibly having something fabricated from polished stainless steel heavy gauge sheet metal is probably the best comprimise. Getting something fabed up then having it chrome plated is going to be very expensive. You might want to check the shaved rear end on the S130. There are quite a few examples once you start searching around. Honestly it would be way cheaper to get a body shop to modify the fiberglass front end to your specifications than to do the bumpers....

Every fluid in the car - not just the oil... new tires...

Unfortunately S30 guys the S130 is on the rebound. I had one 18 years ago and no one could care less about them then. Now my project S130 get just as many looks as my fully restored '72 240Z. I get stoped at traffic lights, cross walks, parking lots, etc - anywhere the car and people are in close proximity. Problem with the S130 is that they seem to be worse than a ten year older S30 for rust. So although they made A LOT of S130 (because they were undeniably popular in their time) not many have survived. They are less common on the roads than an S30 because no one use to put much effort into them like the S30. That is changing now. There aren't many project S30s left and there is a lot to be said for a less expensive S130. There is a new generation discovering these cars and they are starting to become quite popular. I think some of us forget the history of the Z car or only know the bit about the particular car we own. It's a long and impressive lineage and the S130 is part of that lineage. Times were changing and YOU the consumer at the time demanded luxury in your sports cars and Nissan answered the call with the many luxury and high tech advances in the S130. Nissan has always been inovative and competative with their sports cars - look at the current 370Z and GTR and the technology/price you get. Asthetics are infintely debateable and every car has its fans and haters based on what they look like. Who though anyone would ever love an AE86 but it has a cult following now. Weight gained by saftey restrictions is nothing new and it's difficult to avoid. The 280ZX in base form wasn't much different in weight from the 280Z. Strip off the luxury and you can loose a lot of weight on an S130. The S130 is also undeniably superior in its body design for areodynamics. While the S30 looks aerodynamic but that's where it ends - looks. The drag is poor (a Range Rover Classic and a Toyota pickup has a lower drag than an S30!) and the lift is worse! Anyone that has taken a stock S30 up to any significant speed will soon find out about the lift coefficient.... The mushy suspension of a stock S130 IS absolutely horrible but when you change struts and springs you totaly change the car's responsiveness and it's well on it's way to being a "sports car" again. First mod I would do to any S130 by a long shot. The L28ET... well there is no sense in going there - we already know you S30 guys are running our motor in your car..... a $1000 in an L28ET will get you more power than $5000 in an L24.... and it will start flawlessly each time. I've don't have a Z31 (looking for an '88 Shiro) or a Z33 (don't particularly care to own one at this point in time) but I do own every other Z car. The S30 and the S130 are as close to each other as the Z33 and the Z34. Brother's shouldn't be fighting with each other ;P I'll tell you IMHO the #1 problem with the S130. It's not its weight or luxury items its price or its rust. The #1 problem - it's stance. The 240Z throw a set of wheels on it and they fit the car pretty good. Throw a set of wheels on an S130 and they look OK but the car still doesn't look mean. You need to get the wheels way out by the fender. A lowered S130 on stock rims looks horrific - the wheels are in probably four inches from the fender. Get those wheels out and you totaly transform an S130..... Stock: Stock body with Rota RB-Rs: ...and with just a front air damn - stock body otherwise: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_280ZX Engineering The 280ZX adopted suspension similar to that of the concurrent Bluebird 910, with MacPherson struts in front and semi-trailing arm independent in the rear. The wheelbase was down from its predecessor at just 91.3 in (2319 mm) for the two-seater. The 280ZX's body was redesigned with aerodynamics in mind. By closing in the open grille of the first generation Z-Car and through other improvements taken from wind-tunnel testing, the drag coefficient was reduced from 0.467 to 0.385, and the lift coefficient from 0.41 to 0.14. The new design had a lower center-of-gravity and near 50/50 weight distribution in both 2-seater and 2+2 designs. The rear of the car was stretched to accommodate a larger 80 L (21.133 U.S. liquid gallons) fuel tank. Overall, the new body design gave better fuel economy and high-speed stability (one of the known issues from the first generation Z-car). Improvements were also made to braking, and steering. The 280ZX initially offered either unassisted rack-and-pinion steering, or Datsun 810-derived recirculating-ball with power assistance. A new power-assisted rack-and-pinion replaced the recirculating-ball steering system for the 1981 Turbo, becoming available on the normally aspirated models the following year. It is a common misconception that the 280ZX's L28 engine is less powerful than the L24 engine of the 1970 240Z: the difference is due to Nissan adopting the SAE net standard of power measurement, which resulted in lower power ratings than the earlier gross figures and added emissions. However, Nissan designers deliberately sacrificed raw acceleration for improved fuel economy in the 280ZX, so the early 1979 models rated at 145 hp (108 kW) actually had slower acceleration than the 240Z, largely due to increases in weight and emissions control strangling. This overall performance deficit was not addressed until the release of the 280ZX Turbo in 1981. Net HP Gross HP 240Z 121 151 260Z 130 162 280Z (75-78) 136 170 280ZX NA (79-83) 145 182

Love the Rota RB-Rs Nice choice ;P

Yes the current limiting resistors limit the current. They do of course act as a voltage divider as well since your injectors have a resistance that is in series with the resistors so you will get a voltage drop across the resistor and across the injector. Problems with AFM's (and current limiting resistors for the injectors) are often bad contacts. Make sure you have a good clean contact between the two and that the clip for securing the AFM is in place and you aren't just relying on the friction from the pins to hold the AFM connector on. The resistor pack can have the same issues as well will bad or broken connections. Current won't drop when the injector is fired. It's the only time it will actually flow. Without the injector firing there is no completed circuit and without a completed circuit there is no current flow. For the ECU there is an LED that lights up to give various fault codes as well IIRC. Check with the FSM at www.xenonS30.com or www.xenons130.com You should typically be able to start the engine for a bit but it will sputter and stall if the AFM is completely disconnected. Poor running, stuttering, stalling, etc are AFM issues - not starting is likely an issue elsewhere. Got Spark?