Z Kid

It would be pushing my luck too far to hope/assume you are in Australia wouldn't it?

I hope he means selling it was a mistake, as opposed to trying to ensure the saftety of its new owner

Well dad recently bought a car that had been sitting for 17 years (68 E type), and whilst it went ok for a while, on its last trip, it used 27 litres of oil (Shannons national rally) The car had been sitting under a soft sheet for 17 years in a shed. The chrome had all pitted, there was rust which had deveolped (this is a relatively dry climate). It was a good runnin proposition when it went it, however when it was extricated, it needed a few panel repairs, rechromed bumpers, and ultimately a full motor rebuild a year down the track. The brakes also needed the wheel cylinders relined and still are not perfect. It was a relatively low milage car, but after 17 years in a shed, it needed a lot of work to get running well again. I think if you store a car, you really need to run it frequently and actually use all the components and regularly change all its vital fluuids. Otherwise it is worse than a high milage driven frequently car in my humble opinon. Cheers Chris

George, I have here a copy of the service manual and nissan parts catalogue for the 240Z. The weight is only listed (as far as i can tell) as being 1025kg (2260lb). However there is a weight listing for the HLS30-U(Canadian/American LHD 240z?) as being 1044kg (2300lb) not sure if it helps, but if it does I can scan and email you a copy of the relevant page. Just to muck it up even fu rther, I have a brochure for the Australian 240Z's listing the weight as 2260.00lbs. Maybe its time for a rear light and compliance plate change, and we have ourselves a 260? The guys at motor vehicle registry don't have the rep for being the sharpest knives in the drawer.

Nissan hey, well you better stop buying parts for the Z, and give it to me to remove the temptation.

I hope that is the case for you, and it can be sorted out. But surely to re rego it, they would have changed all the identity plates and firewall numbers? Or do the compliance plate and the firewall disagree? I really hope it works out

240's are hard to get in Australia, but then so are the 260 2 seaters. I paid 900 for the heap that you can see in my avtar (was complete and running at the time, no rego, with a fair amount of rust). If budget is really tight, a 260 2+2 would be the way to go, in many peoples opinion not as nice, but this is reflected in the price, and an ok one can be had for a couple of grand, when a 2 seater in similar condition would cost at least twice that much. Good luck finding one, If you're in melbourne or sydney, you have a fair chance, anywhere else and you need to travel to melbourne or sydney to pick one up. Cheers Chris

I've been talking to the body shop, and he says whatever you do, try to avoid reskinning a door, and unless the car is currently together for a testfit its not a feasble option. But he also agrees that my door is beyond saving, so I shall keep looking. Thanks

According to the net "LIQUID WRENCH Lubricates, Protects, "it drives the moisture away"." So i can only assume it is their equivelant to WD40 or CRC? Now I have a question, has anyone heard of a molasses tank for cleaning and de-gunking car parts? It was mentioned in passing by an old chap, and it didn't really sink in till i was on the train home, is there another type of molasses as opposed to the stick sugary stuff?

I can't help you with finding a 260Z 2 seater shell or bits, but if you do happen to find a shell, could i have first dibs on the LHS door (my 240 one is shot) should you happen to find one soon, I'll be in melbourne over easter. Good luck with your hunt Cheers Chris

Surely you'd just knock that one up in the back shed from a sheet of MDF, and whack a layer of carpet on it if it worked well? However has anyone used the removable pod style speakers you see on some parcel shelves?

I've pulled out two Z dashes without having to remove the glovebox, as long as you lie with your head in the footwell to look for bolts, it should all go pretty easily, however a second pair of hands in excellent when trying to take it carefull out of the car.

After looking at this, you can understand why something should be done though . This is intended as a humorous quirky attachment and nothign else, please take it that way (it could be taken far more seriously than intended)

POR actually makes a tank salvaging kit which is available over here, comes with flushing agents, cleaners and sealer as well as a small patch for repairing any minor leaks that may occur

So carl, in spite of the stirring, these photos are to prove that the wheel is actually plastic right?

I may well be wrong, and some models may be different to others, but when looking closesly, mine certainly appears to be of non tree origin. But it is a pretty convincing fake.

The "wooden" 240z steering wheel is infact an epoxy based plastic (ie a thermosetting one) not real wood? Not sure about all of them, but mine sure is given the small cracks that it has in it.

Couple of things i can think of for that. If its a case of just wanting the shine, you can lightly sand your plastic wood wheel, then get an epoxy based clear coat sprayed on (as long as its got the UV modifier it should work well) Speak to a boatbuilder or spray painter. The dash firm near us does steering wheel restos, and can put all sorts of finishes on it pearl etc, so a wood finish should be a doodle for them. I went to the local sushi bar after reading cats original post, and it had a laminex top

Not sure if its any use to us, but it might be good to be able to take to the machining shop (what I intended to do with it) http://www.datsport.com/Flywheel.html hope its of some use, but might pay to check it out before you go to these specs

Joseph, Sorry for misunderstanding your original post, I meant no harm, nor did i intend for you to take any of it seriously. Its just they way I come across sometimes. Please hang round, I am new to Z's, and any fellow australian enthusiasts who know about them are likely to come in useful to me and others at some stage(with knowledge and maybe even practical help), however as you can see from the pic, mine has a long way to go before it can once again be a proud Z. Once again, my sincere apologies Chris PS When its finished, make sure you chuck some pics up of the beast PPS next time "hubcaps are sold" would avoid all this confusion

You do I guess, as long as you have a car to put them on, or intend to put them on at some stage. It was a FWIW, just seemed like a weird thing to bring back a thread just to say i got it, kind of like wohho, I got it and you guys didn't? However if you are just a hoarder of Z bits, who buys stuff simply to put on a shelf, then my opinoin of you is not very high, I am tired of people hoarding huge amounts of parts, just so they can say they have them in their shed. It makes it a bitch for the rest of us to buy parts. (the hubcaps weren't for me, but for a friend with an early 240 which they would be correct for, as can be seen my 240 needs the later Z hubcaps, of which i am trying to put together a set) Admittedly I will use mags most of the time, but for classic runs etc it would be nice to have a period looking and correct car, and from all accounts, between the flex of the wheels and the weight of the hubcaps, if you leave them on all the time, they don't stay there for too long. Just seemed like a weird response to do, but then I guess engineers aren't like the rest of us commoners

The thing is, I enquired about a set on ebay from a dealer, and he claims they never came out in metal, which I Know is incorrect, then he said they should be plastic for my car, but having lied to me once, i wasn't about to get taken for a ride, I'd rather know, and get it right first time. So anyone have a metal badge for sale, or better yet two?

Looking for a set of guard badges to put on my Z (not in a hurry, just keeping my eyes open for a nice set or a well priced new set) but should they be plastic or metal? I have seen both pop up from time to time, but which ones would be strictly correct for the car? The car is a 73 240z RHD Guard=Fender

I broke the head off the axe, then snapped the pitman arm puller doing this, finally lashed out and got a pickle fork, three taps later and it just fell out. Go for the pickle fork, they can be had cheaper than breaking the pitman arm puller.

FWIW I just got given a set of three (I will probably end up paying something for them, but for now they are at home) only problem being i need a fourth one (the Z style, not the D ones) I win in the FWIW's