motorman7

Yes, that is probably the reason. Very interesting stuff. Continued with the body work. Finished out the lower front passenger fender (before and after shown). Started the whole overall sand of the car starting with the rear passenger side quarter panel. Also cleaning up small dings and paint chips along the way. I took a pick of the rear passenger side window area with window removed. You can see the color difference of the original paint and the second paint. I am wondering if the second coat darkened over time or if it was different from the start. Hard to say. It was a little dirty under the fender. I will clean that off and coat with POR-15.

Wow, that is interesting as this was the drivers side also. Maybe that is the correct screw configuration then. I honestly don't know. It just seems odd to me from a manufacturing stand point.

Things like this are always interesting to me. A little more Z CSI. The single panhead phillips screw (wrong type) and the two hex phillips screws(correct type) to support the windshield wiper pivot. Makes me wonder why the wiper system was removed at some point. Fortunately I have a whole box of the hex phillip screws with the yellow zinc coating. so no trouble finding the correct screw. I cleaned up the panel area under the back hatch. That had some significant rust as you can see in the pics. I wire wheeled all of the rust off and put on rust inhibitor yesterday. Used the filler today and sanded the area to form. It still needs a bit of final shaping, but is close to what it needs to be. Pics are below.

Nothing too exciting at this point. Body work and sanding is the dull slow part. Started on the engine bay prep. Before pic is shown below. Wiped down the engine bay with lacquer thinner to remove the oil residue. I plugged 6 small holes and the 2 large holes that were previously used for the AC system. We won't have the AC system installed so that makes things a bit easier. Also fixed the little ding on the fender. I noticed a little yellow paint as I sanded the fender. I am guessing this fender was replaced at one point and the fender came from a yellow car? I don't think that is primer or filler. The battery area is in good condition with just some trace surface rust. Here are some of the pics.

Hi Carl, Yes, I will look in to that. I was planning on doing the entire undercarriage with the POR-15 anyway, just as I did on the previous orange one. It wouldn't be that hard to add this for the inside of the frame rails as well. Thanks for the tip. Rich

That'll work :-) Also, thanks all for the wiper bag sources. Will check those out.

Hi Zedyone, The sides of the square channel seem to straighten out nicely as they are 'massaged' into shape, removing some of the 'kinks'. The center part still needs to be cleaned up with the slide hammer as they are still dented inwards. As you noted, it is covered from the inside and I do not want to put any holes in the floorboard, so I will use the slide hammer. I did this on my '71 and it came out pretty well. I know it seems odd cleaning up the underside of the Z, but when I look at any Z it is one of the first areas I check. Clean frame rails are hard to find now-a-days. Rich

The body work continues: Pounded out the driver side floor board this evening. It looks much better but will need some slide hammer work to finish. There is a small amount of rust through on this side. Will probably clean up and weld a 2" X 2" piece of sheet metal here. Removed the cowl. There is a lot of over spray from previous work/paint and a lot of runs in the paint in this area. Also, I will have to check on the availability of a washer motor cover. That may be hard to find. But then again, I may have one in my boxes. Started work on the right fender. Tapped it roughly into shape. The key to bodywork is to get the damaged area as close to perfect as possible WITHOUT the body filler. Once it is close, then the body filler goes on. We want to keep that to a minimum. I will need to go to TCP Global and pick up a small can to finish the fender out. Will also use this in the back hatch area. Anyway, here are a few pics.

This Z is actually a '72 Z built in '71, so that may explain why it is silver. I was not aware of the timing of that change, so thanks for the info. I probably need to contact Mike and see if he can change the title of the thread to read '1972 Restoration' instead of '1971 Restoration'.

Yes, I guess there are a number of ways to attack this. Hard to say which way is best. I was pretty happy with the hammer results and it actually came out better than expected. Also, the floor is in pretty good condition with no major rust, so no need to replace. Structurally it seems to be pretty solid. I will work on the drivers side dents this Thursday. It is dented about the same as the passenger floor pan was. I also noticed in the pic that I missed a spot at the aft end. I will have to go back and tap that out.

Here are some pics of the door plastic. Neither one appears to be original. I will re-do these when I start doing the interior work. Was short on time this weekend, so did not get much done. I did get the bulging dent taken out of the passengers floor board. Looks much better now. Before and after are shown below. Too often mechanics stick there jacks under the car and just start cranking. It causes the severe dents seen here. The 4 pound hammer and 2X4 did a nice job of putting things back close to normal. I will use a slide hammer to smooth out the rest of the box beam. AAaaahh, and a picture of the twins.

Cool, check out the dash restoration video at Just Dashes....its a Z dash

Most of the car is original, however the doors have seen some work done to them. As a result the plastic is not in great shape. The drivers side is just a small rectangle near the door handle. The passenger side is a bit more complete. I will try and post pics by tomorrow. Thanks for the offer. I think the heater core is OK, but I will check. The coolant was a very clean green, so I am optimistic. It just seemed liked the valve was bad and I have one of those already. Anyway, the fun part begins soon. The tear down is not that exciting as nothing is really made better. Hope to start doing some of the body work this coming week. That is a bit more useful.

Always nice to get a little attention. http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/my-fair-lady-a-visual-history-of-the-nissan-z-car/ss-AAlCpSG?ocid=spartanntp Glad they brought up the 'Pre-Z' history. That is how I typically refer to my 1600 roadster at the ZCSD meetings.

Made a little more progress tonight. I got the dash out. Woo-Hoo! I took lots of pics of the wiring as that is a bit funky under the steering column. Also took out the steering column, brake booster and clutch; so now the engine bay is stripped of parts. I think I just need to take off the rear view mirror and then I am ready to start body work. I will remove the instruments and harness from the dash and send that out to get repaired professionally. I will send that up to Just Dashes in Van Nuys. They did the dash on my orange 71 240 and it looks perfect. The brake booster looks ugly, but will clean up nicely. Here are a few pics.

Cool, I like it!

Made a lot of progress this week. The outside of the car is just about stripped (only a few items left). I spent most of the time removing items in the transmission tunnel. I removed the differential, half-shafts and drive shaft. Also removed the fuel lines, clutch lines, brake lines and parking brake system. That 10mm flare nut wrench is absolutely incredible and is a must when removing brake lines. If you use a regular wrench, you will round off the nut flats. I also removed the heater panel and controls, and the radio. I put several layers of blue tape on the center console near the dash and heater panel to prevent scratches. That area is always a very tight fit I noticed the heater valve was stuck and pretty corroded. No problem there as I have an extra (new) one laying around. Should have the dash, seats and other small items out by next weekend, then it will be time to start the body work. I will leave the glass in till last the help reduce the amount of dust in the car. No broken bolts in the disassembly to date. That is pretty good. Some pics are below

Frame off may be a bit challenging as it's unibody construction....but we know what you mean, yes . This still is a very nice car, but overpriced for what it is.

Unfortunately, some people like me can get pretty anal about this stuff. (I apologize in advance) In addition to the clamps, It would be nice to have the radiator and heater hoses braided as well. These are available at http://jdm-car-parts.com/ . I would recommend the smog hoses as well from http://jdm-car-parts.com/, but it appears that the smog system has been entirely deleted. The plug wires are obnoxious with all of the white markings. Better ones are available. I am sure there is more that I am missing, but these are the obvious stand-outs and for me would be cause for reduction of the $70K asking price.

Yes, it is definitely well cared for, things are coming apart nicely. Even the exhaust system came out without a sheared bolt head. That is pretty impressive. Today I pulled the motor, transmission and exhaust system. The motor is really pretty clean. I will check through the receipts and see what was done to it. Obviously the head was done. Also has a new water pump and looks like a new smog pump and alternator. I will eventually check the cylinders and see if a block hone and rings would be in order. It looks like the clutch and transmission have also had some work done. There are some markings on the transmission and flywheel that are from a machine shop. Those both look to be in real good shape and probably just need to be cleaned up The fun part in all this is the Z CSI. Interesting to note what items have been worked on, and which items are original. All the little details tell a story. Anyway, here are some pictures from the tear down.

Took out the AC compressor and bracket, engine harness, grill,head lights and turn lights, fuel tank, vapor tank and other small parts and hoses. Should have the motor out tomorrow. This is progressing fairly well. No glitches at all. I did find one item at the forward tie down location where a bolt had been sheared off. Will drill and tap that before paint. Pics are below.

I will buy a copy also, sounds great.

Hi Carl, Thanks for the info on the differences between the various Z models. I was not aware of the differences as my 3 Z's are earlier models that have the standard seat belt attachment without the re-tractors. Also, I will have to look closer at the center console. This one does look nice and the warning lights (choke and rear window de-fog) work. This is much better than I am used to. Best regards, Rich

Hhmmmmm...I may have to change the title to the thread. The car is a 10/71 build on the door tag and registration says it is a 1972 model year.

Hi Steve, I am pretty sure it is a '71, but will check when I get home. Will check the build date also. Also, seat belts are not retractable. Interesting thing is the shoulder harnesses are missing for both driver and passenger. Owner said the car did not come with those. Maybe taken off by the dealer? Will post info later when I get pics. Best regards, Rich