JohnnyO

I buffed an area the size of a nickel and it came out as clean aluminum. That is why I thought maybe it was oxidized or maybe I should have said tarnished. I dont think it was anodized. I first thought it was painted because the black (dark grey actually) was uniform, not pitted or raised. Carl, what do you use to clean these up? I dont want the polished look. I got over shiny objects at about 3 years old:) TIA, John

And these match: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300284848171&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&viewitem= John

Back to the paint plan for a minute. Is it common for the aluminum valve cover to "oxidize" black over time? Should I leave it that way or buff it out? At first I thought the po had painted it but aircraft remover did nothing so I hit it with a buffing wheel and some polishing compound and it came clean immediately. What is correct? John

Can you put it back the way it was and let my ex borrow your car for a day? Oh, yeah, pull the drivers seatbelt before she picks it up... Thanks in advance.

I noticed that my camera is turning all my pictures kind of yellow. It could be my lighting source too. I am trying to light the photos with twin 500 watt halogens. They put off a yellow light. Either way, your probably not going color blind. John

Thank you VERY much. I will store the sticker in my "How to Modify Datsun 510 610 240Z Engines and Chassis" book and it will feel right at home until I finish my restore. Let me know if I owe you anything. John

That answers my next question "how do you tell the difference." I guess the easiest way is the ribs. The PO painted the whole oil pan blue. Guess he took over spray to the extreme. Thanks

It is media blasted bare. I hit it with a coat of high temp clear satin but did not like the finish so I cleaned that off and left it bare. John

Sure does. I've got the fever!!!!!! Blasting every thing, gas tank straps, motor mounts, drive shaft, air pump, etc..... Thanks for your tips, they gave me confidence to move forward. John

You can come out now. I do it all the time, it's about time it happened to me.

That is the goal. Let's see if I can afford it.

I thought that looked fishy. My 01/70 has no stickers or summer/winter flap. Can we be sure the numbers even match?

Is that the correct airbox for a 69?

I was pretty lucky when I found mine. It was very clean, actually, the pictures above of the engine show how it was when I pulled it. I have not cleaned it yet. Then engine bay was in great shape too. The only issue in there was an exhaust leak where the header bolts to the pipe. This "burned" the paint under the master vac. Really not an issue as I plan on stripping the bay. Be sure to post some pics when the weather gets warm enough to blast 210.

Thanks Mike. That does not look like mine, but I guess I new that. Mine says remanufactured by Nissan on the red sticker. Is that the 69 you just picked up? Needs a good cleaning, huh?

I will do that. My first mission is to get some decent scans or pictures to send him. Thanks for the info.

Thanks Dan, I am currently looking for an e31 head that is either ready to install or a good candidate for resurfacing. I also need an exhaust manifold and the alternator is a remanufactured Nissan one. Someone mentioned "grapefruit" alternator. Not sure what they meant by that. The back of my air pump is a dark gray but it is not painted, that was how it looked after I blasted it. I know that the blue on the block is not original. Can you tell from the pics if it looks "close"? John

When I look inside I see one flat piece of metal running the length of the radiator. This metal has 2 rows of "vents" in it. I am assuming this means I have a 2 row.

Here are some pictures. I have to say that it looks pretty good. I did end up with a few runs that needed to be sanded down but all in all it turned out nice. I accomplished this as follows: Removed the top layer of paint with pure acetone and a rag. Blasted in a small blasting cabinet with coal slag (black beauty) at 60-70 psi Was careful not to blast too heavily after the paint came off or around the rivets Primed it with rattle can sandable auto primer (Rustoleum) Applied 4 coats of Rustoleum Gloss Antique White (#7794) I found this to be an almost exact match and the old paint looked to be gloss. I sanded after the second coat with 600 and after the third coat with 800. It would have been a little easier to paint the fan if I had a small booth to hang it from. Might have to make that this weekends project. Anybody have a small say 3x3 booth in the garage that they could provide pictures of? Thanks for all the tips.

Do you have a name and number or a link? John

OK. I'm getting a little confused. I am posting some pictures below. Let me know if you see something "odd". I've already removed and blasted the motor mounts and am painting them satin black today. Thanks, John

Do you just go to a vinyl cutter with the scan?

How can you visibly tell if you have a 2 or 3 row? Do you look inside and count rows or is it visible from the outside? John

It looks like mine is correct. Thanks for the pictures. As you can see from the pictures, it has a tag that was soldered on by "Karls Radiator" I found the invoice for the recore in my files. I guess "Karl" was pretty proud of his work and probably offered a warranty on the radiator which he kept track of with the serial number on the tag. Thanks again! John

I have the engine out of the car right now. I will be pulling the valve cover soon for blasting and will check the cam. Thanks for the great info! How would a guy go about getting one of those FAR decals? John