JohnnyO

BPilati: Here is the link to the ppg chips online: http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1971-datsun-pg01.jpg Terry, Thanks for the help. I might have to consider Dupont instead of ppg if that is the best match. I had a sample of the PPG mixed and it too appeared too dark. Thanks all. John

I dont have the code for the rear panels but Les at Classicdatsun.com does have the paint in rattle cans. PPG lists the 920 gold as 71/72. I am pretty sure it was a 70/71 color but cant find that chip. Hope that helps. John

I am a little confused. I was at a local paint dealer talking about ppg paints and have decided to go with the DP line of epoxy primers (I have already acid etched the car) and I had a sample of the 920 Gold made up from the PPG formula in the computer. I brought it home and applied some to an area that did not get sunlight of the last 40 years and the color was alot browner than the stock color. To be honest it looks a lot different than alot of the 920 Gold cars I see online. I also hear it refered to as Safari Gold. Is Safari Gold and 920 Gold the same color or was the early series 1 gold different than the 71 920 gold? Thanks, John

Still available? John

Is the finish on the air gallery still holding up? John

Someone should offer this guy a grand for everything then purchase #491. You could use the engine from this one in #491 and at least have a period correct z. A lot of work but may be worth it.

Shot in the dark but I just asked the seller if he still has the original block. Let's see what happens. John

I tried to pry info out of this guy 3 or 4 months ago. I received the same vague responses. He is hiding something.

What do you have into it? John

Unkle, Be careful, if it wasn't for that arsenal we own sitting directly west of you there's a good chance you'd be speaking Russian right now...

Jim, Thanks, that answers most of my questions. Appreciate the help all. John

I was under that impression somewhat. I guess I assumed they might need a light skim coat but would generally be ready to go. Perhaps I should just bite the bullet and finish stripping mine then see where they are at.

Arne, looking at the hi-res pics of those fenders reveals a pretty nasty crease at the top of the left fender where it meets the cowl and door.

During stripping I found some filler on the top of each fender just in front of the inspection lids. They also had a thin layer of skim coating all around. I am really trying to keep the thick filler off of my resto. I know that I would be a heck of a lot more careful than the PO was knowing they are flexible and after paying $700 for them.

Caught that. Thanks Arne.

I saw these a few weeks ago. He doesn't want to have to ship them and they would need a little work from the body guy. Better than nothing I guess.

Mine are actually in pretty good shape for being 39 years old. No rust, just 39 years of leaning on them has the metal pretty flexible. Was hoping to install new ones and sell or store the original pair. My body guy said that it would be about 5 hours each fender and after I did the math it would only cost me about 100 bucks extra to go new. I would still like my questions answered if anybody can help.

Dont tell me that.

I am pretty sure that new fenders are available through Nissan and am planning on purchasing a pair. I guess I am wondering if they are an "exact" fit and replacement for a series 1 car. I am wondering about the bolt holes lining up, the inspection lid latches being the same, the headlights bolting in properly and the emblem holes lining up. Part numbers would be a bonus;) TIA, John

Almost looks like the tow truck operator tells him to release the brake. Either way, sucks to be him.

The reason I am asking because I found a rusted out 72 for sale and after going to look at it I noticed that it had a series 1 hatch with vertical defrost lines and the hood looked "different". I just couldn't figure out what the difference was. If I remember correctly it did not have the gusset or the holes as described in 26th's thread. Geezer, every time I search this site I get way too many hits. I don't think the search engine understands "quoting" when searching. If it did it would only return results with my exact request in it. I don't think it is doing that. Either way, it is great that we have people like you to assist us "search challenged" people. Thanks again. John

Exactly the thread I was looking for. Some day you'll have to teach me how to search. Much Thanks. John

I know there is a thread here that has the details of the correct hoods. I just can't find it and I am giving up. Any help? TIA John

Yep, caught that in your post. Well thanks all. I made an offer on the heap of crap this guy has just to get a few parts I want. If I get it most will end up in the recycling pile due to rust thru but I will salvage what I can and will probably be listing both sets of wheels. Appreciate the help. John

I think that the "yellow zinc" (that is so readily available in the US due to EPA restrictions regarding cad plating chemicals) gives more of a gold look that traditional cadmium plating. I am about to send out some engine bay parts and would love to see the outdoor pictures. They may help me decide whether my parts go to Canada or to a local shop. John