JohnnyO

I think you misunderstood something in the posts. Charlie's rails were more than long enough. I am pretty sure there is at least 6 extra inches on them so you can cut to fit. They do not include the very front part of the rail that is shaped like a triangle under your brake booster. This is not attached to the floor pan it is attached to the firewall and front frame rails. Your rails look good. John

The VIN # is HLS30-000067? Please confirm.

Update: So the drama continued until I said the hell with it and went with PPG Shop Line mixed in the off the shelf 23576 code. I had a sample of this and was spraying it on primed sheet metal. Me, being an inexperienced painter to say the least, had only put 3 - 4 light coats on. I wasn't happy with the color. My paint guy painted my valance corners for me so I could see the color and it looks great! I asked him why it came out so much better and he told me it took 10 light coats to get the full color! 10! I had no idea you could even apply that much paint. He said even though my coverage looked even it wasn't deep enough. I guess that's why he makes the big bucks. Anyway, it matches very close to the 40 year old samples I peeled from under the rear strut tower vinyl and the parts I have look great in the sunlight as well as the garage. He is jamming the body and painting the engine bay now and I will pick it up next week to reassemble the body and install the engine, fuel and brake lines and get some of the smaller under body items back in. I should be able to get the car back to him by the end of February for the topcoat. the picture is from yesterday. John

Makes total sense. I had my welder drill the spot welds out then he cut the old supports off just in behind the firewall. At this point he wanted to cut the new supports to to a point so he could "slip it inside" the front part (tension rod boxes). Then he would weld them in and grind them down. I said no. I had him measure, cut and butt weld them in place. Not perfect but it looks pretty nice. If I decide to put Line-X on it you wouldn't know it ever had work done. The floor pans themselves did take some effort to get back to flat and they are not perfect. A little wavy is the best way to describe it. He hammered and dollied it but with the stamped creases in the floor pans it was pretty hard to get perfect. I suppose I could have replaced the pans for a few hundred more at this point but I liked the idea of having the original rust free pans in there. My guy is finishing the jamming on the car this week and I will hopefully be taking it home before christmas for reassembly. I will jack it up and get some pictures when I get it home. I know this is getting to you a little late. For some reason I am not recieving my subscribed email alerts. Must look into that now. John

When I purchased the car last September it had been sitting since 1989. In the reciepts I received with the car (every reciept since new) I found the invoice for the exhaust system from F.A.R performance and it was dated 1986. Being that it was a California car I would imagine that the smog rail was moved over to the new header at that time. With most cars since 1975 having Catalytic Converters installed I would imagine that leaded fuel in California was not available by the time this header was installed but the smog rail was probably original and the white buildup was probably from the early 70's. The odometer difference between the 86 invoices and the last oil change in 89 was only 8000 miles. John

Manny, It looks like esprist has suggested just cutting them flush with the manifold. In my case they were bolted into the header just as they would with an exhaust manifold and I left them. I have the original manifold and on the next head gasket blowout I plan on replacing my E88 head with one of my E31 heads and the original manifold to get it all back to stock. I am not exactly sure of the purpose but I am pretty sure it had something to do with getting the leftover "smog" deep enough into the cylinders to effectively burn it. With that in mind, you probably wouldn't hurt anything by cutting them down and even welding them shut. This would give you a stock look with less of an impact from the smog gear. Maybe someone a little more familiar can chime in on the functionality of them. BTW, on the recommendation of posters to this thread I did clean them up. I blasted them while I was blasting the rest of the header. And yes, I was wearing a respirator.

Maybe a picture would help.

I've got an original 175SR14 that might have been used once or twice shortly during its life. It is mounted on a rim stamped 11 69. Still working on the damn paint. I think I've had 5 samples mixed by my shop and have mixed 4 of my own custom mixes too with the samples I purchased. This really sucks. John

WOW! Nice find John. I looked for 3 months on ebay and CL locally and couldn't find a quality deal. Ended up buying a new 60 gal porter in June for $450 and am about ready to trade up because it just doesn't keep up when running the blasting cabinet or pot. Not such an issue with the pot because it only holds about 70# and needs to be refilled every 15 minutes, but the cabinet is another story. John

Thanks, been looking for that. John

Mike, Not sure but judging by the oil buildup in the airbox I would imagine there is a significant amount of blow by that over the years might cause an issue. Just guessing but it seems logical. John

I can't help you with the size but here is a site that sells all sizes if you do find the size. http://www.boltdepot.com/metric-fasteners.html It might help if you post the year of your vehicle. Welcome to the club. Join ZOOM if you have a chance. John

"I Sure Wish Somebody Would Invent Something To Keep The Sun Out Of My Eyes."

How to tell when Bananas go bad...

Thank you;) John

I have a 240Z so it may be different but I removed all bolts from intake and exhaust. After that I took a block of 2x4 and put it against the exhaust manifold and gave it a good shot with a 3 pound sledge. It was just enough to loosen the gasket enough to "peel" it off the rest of the way. Hope that helps. John

Not sure about out there but in Minnesota you can purchase collector plates and it can sit forever without being driven. Collector plates usually only have a 1 time fee associated with them. I consider that a bonus. John

go to your local farmers store, or northern tool. They have all sizes and types. Just bring the old one in to match the size (Diameter and Length). and dont forget the cotter pins. John

It's back up again. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-70-datsun-240z-built-in-1969-one-of-500-very-rare_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem1c0ce1a361QQitemZ120475198305QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-1970-Datsun-240z-low-VIN1382-Survivor-car_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem20ad7a1835QQitemZ140349413429QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks Just a few vin numbers after mine. Wish I wasn't spending 8 grand on paint this month. John

Do you just need the lower part? You only need 1? Cheapest I could find online was $60.00 each new. I'd take $30.00 delivered for 1 or $50.00 delivered for the pair, lower portion only. Let me know and I will PM you my PayPal address. John

Welcome to the club. You should probably post your question in the body section but most users would see it under new posts anyway. Here is a link to a company in AU. https://rsp-secure.com/rarespares/ THey have floor pan sections but do not show 2+2 pans. I would guess that your pans might only be shot at the fron so these may work. Rarespares may be able to fab some pans for you. Good luck. John

This is what I have. Let me know what you want to pay for the arm without the blade holder. I am open to offers. John

I was 16 and growing up in south florida, what do you think? John

There might have been weed in my first Z. I just can't remember........