JohnnyO

What year? I have 1 off of a 73 that just needs stripping and paint. It's in pretty decent shape for a daily driver.

Thanks for the help guys. I found a 72 that was in "Great" shape according to the owner. I thought I would take a look at it. Turns out it is a complete rust bucket. All 4 corners, the valance, floor boards and frame rails and fire wall by battery tray. Oddly enough the battery tray looks like only surface rust but the firewall surrounding it has holes in it. The only thing that didnt have rust was the hatch but that was replaced with a series 1 hatch with vertical defrost lines. Once I started pointing this out to the owner he quickly dropped is price to $500 for the car and a ton of parts. 2 extra hatches, 2 front quarters, extra set of 3 screw SU's, 2 gas tanks (1 looks almost new), a front spoiler, a crack free 72 dash, 2 am/fm hitachis, spare red interior panels, 2 extra doors, a lot of glass, an extra set of rims, etc. The car had factory a/c. So I started looking at what he had to see if I could get my money back by parting it out and taking the parts I wanted. I checked out the rims on the car and noticed the center caps said "Carrol Shelby Wheels" or something like that. Weird thing is that I dont recall seeing the common Cobra image on the center caps. They were NOT Libre's. They look more like a turbine with a lot of spokes coming all the way to the center cap. He also has a second set of rims with the car that looks like post 4 above. Maybe the center caps are from the extra set of wheels. He also has an original, in the boxes, set of IMSA Rear Flares for sale. He bought them in the late 70's or early 80's and they just sat. He says they are different than the ones available now because they come up higher on the rear quarter, just below the badges. I might try to get him to throw those in to sweeten the deal. I was really hoping the car would be a runner but it looks like parts only and I want to be able to sell some parts to get my money back and I think the wheels are the best shot. If he takes my offer I will post some pictures of the wheels to close out this thread. Thanks again.

any help appreciated.

I love the beer sitting on the table in the last video. Garage warrior!

Thanks Arne. I will give it a go this weekend. Jim, if I dont like the results I may take you up on your offer. Thanks again, John

Arne, I plan to rewire with my existing long pigtail. With that said, is the orientation of the wiring the same on both blocks? John

The mounting holes appeared the same at first glance. I will have to look again tonight. John

I just picked up a 73 for parts. Kinda hit the jackpot. At some point in its life it threw the timing chain and the PO replaced the e88 head with an e31:D and I also ended up with a complete front clip, only surface rust and a grapefruit alternator!!!! Plus some other parts that I will probably sell to recoupe the $200.00 I got into the parts car. While stripping I found a perfect, un-melted fuse block mounted in the typical spot. I removed it with the pig tail in tact and started looking at my series 1 fuse block. I noticed that one of the fuse contacts on my series 1 fuse block was melted and the fuse didnt quite sit firmly in it. My question is this: They look identical, are they interchangable? Thanks, John

Steve, I emailed them through their site 2 times in a week and never got a response. Did you call them to place your order or did you just order over the web? Did you email them first? I was just checking to see if they were available. You seem to have gotten the best exchange rate ever. Good job!

I tried rsp. They never responded. Let me know if you have any luck.

Thanks for the input. I will let you know where I got them after my order is filled Still haven't heard back on availability yet. If you are interested let me know. Maybe we can get a better price. Right now they are about $270.00 per side. John

I found some filler as I stripped the doors on my car this past weekend. It looks like the guy had a dent on each door about 5 inches up from the bottom. The body shop drilled and pulled then filled. This is unacceptable to me. There were also numerous door dings that were filled. I found some full skins that I am considering purchasing. Was wondering if anyone has experience removing and replacing these and if they could give some insight. Looks like the tops are spot welded and the other 3 sides look like the just slide into place. Maybe they have a tack here and there but I couldn't tell. Any help would be great. John

Welcome to the board. There are a few out there. I drove from MN to Cali to pick up a early 1970(01/70 #1366) that was parked for 20 years. Rust free but found some dents that were filled with body filler when I stripped it. They are out there, you just have to look. I would try Craigslist and search all the California cities. Oh, and bring a magnet. Just so you know, I had 3 grand into it by the time I got it home and have put about a grand into my the engine resto and misc. parts. Still have the paint job (hoping for under 5 grand), some interior parts, brake work, window and body seals and the exhaust system to go. Good luck on the hunt, it is at least half the fun.... John

What should I pay for a Japanese import right hand drive 2+2 that needs a little work to get it running and a little rust repair? Does the RHD and Fairlady have an impact on the value? Any input appreciated. John

The only thing I dont like is the head lights. A little too "bold" for me. John

I'd love to get some help acquiring a set of these. Anybody willing to help? John

! Kinda like the guy with the blow up dollROFL

Welcome. Sounds like a nice setup.

Does anybody have a picture or two of an early series 1 distributor? I am talking to a few people that aren't "sure" of what they have. Thanks John

Is there a difference between the early single and later single? The reason I ask is that the PO had modified the existing dizzy so he could install electronic ignition and I found someone who has some early setups I can buy but want to get the right one. Thanks, John

Arne's got it right. I bought my oil from my local crotch rocket shop. They thought I was crazy too when I told them I needed oil for my carbs! They ordered it for me in a 1 litre bottle for $12.00. A lot more than I need and a lot more than I thought I would spend but it is correct. Sounds like John Mcgarvie has a system that may work for removing most of the existing oil. Good luck. John

Take off a week and go for a ride between each task..... Welcome to the club. John

Single or double points? Part number? HLS30-01366 01/70 Thanks, John

Here is a picture of the header with the smog rail installed. You can see the white buildup on the steel tubes that go into the exhaust ports. I hit one of them with a wire wheel and it "dusted" off about 2 MM of white powder which made me believe it was ceramic. Any idea? John

They're gone..... And no, I didnt get one.