JohnnyO

The 240 was my first car. Got totaled after about a year. I have been chasing the thrill of that ride ever since. About a month left to go before I feel the thrill again. Going to paint shop Monday morning...

Get some Ospho on that steel before she flashes on you. Keep up the good work. John

I read somewhere that a cheap pump sprayer from Home Depot will do the job if you can get the wand in the cavity. POR has a very low viscosity so it flows right out of the nozzle. I would adjust the nozzle so it is spraying in a cone shape, insert as far as you can, squeeze the trigger and slowly remove the wand. Repeat as necessary. Don't forget to use Ospho or Metal Ready first. Definately helps with adhesion and wipe up any drips that find their way out immediately and often or you will be grinding. If you haven't purchased it yet find a body shop supply company in your area. It will save you about 20 bucks in shipping costs. Great stuff by the way. John

Check out Tabco for body panels. They sell the rear inner and outer for the S30 series. They are probably the best priced out there because they manufacture their own panels and they fit well. It is my understanding that they produce some of the panels other Z sites sell. The only problem is that they never update their site so the prices are from about 1999. Call for correct pricing. Here's the link: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/ John

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The one on the left is closer to the stock ball joint and the same as I purchased from rockauto.com. I don't know enough about adjustable ball joints to offer up an answer to that question but my quick search on google shows some adjustable ball joints that dont look anything like either of those. I would at least get a matched set whichever you choose.

Thanks Chris. This is good to know.

Have you ever inspected the spindle? I had a 76 Cutlass that had a bad spindle from the doing a brake job and not repacking the bearings. I was 17 and never made that mistake again.

Bell housing and front suspension parts should have it too. It's cool finding stuff from before it rolled off the line. In my opinion it just adds to the pleasure of rebuilding a Z. Thanks for adjusting the pictures. That was rough...

M8 1.25 x 35mm m8 1.25 x 70mm Let me know how the extraction goes. I have a couple spare E31's with the same problem. John

Thanks for the warning but it didn't help. Try using the "Attach" feature. It will automatically size the picture for you.

Get the clutch slave cylinder or rebuild kit while at napa. You will need it too. Rebuild kit about 6 bucks. Takes about 20 minutes to do if you bead blast it, about 15 if you dont. John

Chances are good the MC seals are shot too if the lid rubber is shot. I am not sure why this happens to some people. I bought my car after is sat for 19 years and the lid rubber was fine. I am going to attribute it to the brand/type of fluid the PO used. Back to your question, I think that you can remove them and run it but I think you run the risk of humidity contaminating the fluid, fluid leaking from the reserviors during rough driving conditions and hard turning and possibly air getting into the system. I'd sell the new barebones one you've got and buy a complete new one with reserviors and caps. I think I saw them at napa.com as a special order item for about 60 bucks complete with caps and tanks. Just my 2 cents worth. John

Mike, just curious how it handled the "sand blasting" of the wind shield? I looked at other products at Eastwood and think this may be too aggressive for minor pitting. Any opinnion? John

This may help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31988&highlight=%22battery+Tray+removal%27 John

Yeah Arne, Definitely fatter. Man I'm pissed at myself. I protected mine for 18 months and a week before the tranny goes in I smashed the damn thing.

I've heard that from others. They say they even feel "fatter" than the original. Maybe this is from years of wear and drying of the wood. Still can't believe I cracked my shift pattern insert. :stupid: It looked better than I did at 40.

Part number for pre-crimped AGS brake lines with correct M10 fittings: BLJ-308 - 8" (you need this one for the S shaped line) Cost is about $3.00 at Napa. They also make these lines up to 60" with the correct fittings. After that you have to bend and flare your own. Get them at Napa. O'riellys are green coated and just don't match. I wouldn't worry about the S shaped line. Throw that away with the hose. I would worry about the line at the frame. Mess that one up and you will have to bend and flare. John

Wasn't sure where to post this. Here's the link: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/1702458165.html Nice looking car. A little too far from where I am to go look at it. John

Time to get out the acetone.

Another thought is those accessory lights that plug into the cig lighter socket. IIRC, they have an on off switch and come in LED version now. They also have flexible goose necks to point them where you want.

How about just clicking on the the map light or the dome light, if it still works. Congrats on the resurrection! John

I want at least 2. 1 for the car and 1 for 10 years from now when I do it all again... Still looking for inspection lid clips too. John

Not sure what brand I had but I had to drop the exhaust to get my tranny out (6-2-1).

Can't wait for the upgrades! Any chance you want to share a few of the new features? How about being able to get an @classiczcars.com email address? I would proudly show off my 1366@classiczcars.com email address!