JohnnyO

Thanks everybody! I think I will take Jim (zKars) up on his offer. Best I can guess is that the PO replaced it because it was leaking. He saved every receipt so I will find the part number and go through the invoices some day and figure out when it was replaced. What gets me is that, although I remember it being in rather loosely, it was installed and the panel sat flush before I removed it. That's why I was so determined to get it in that I put a reverse dent above the fuel door. It's small but it bothers me because I just got it back from paint. This car was originally sold at Dragonetti Motors in San Mateo and I would assume its port of entry was in California. The 1970 FSM has an asterik in the fuel section that talks about California cars having additional vent hoses. While I wait for the plastic tank from Jim I will hang the metal tank from the screw holes so I can get to tuning the engine. My goal is to have it running by Fathers day and completed by July 1. I am almost there. I know most people get rid of the tanks but if anybody needs a metal one let me know and I will pay it forward. Again, I want to thank everyone for the help. You guys rock! John

i have the metal rank. the car was last registered in california in 90 and the gas tank is correct for having an evap tank. i will take a picture when i get home in an hour. thanks all.

Been battling it for almost 2 hours and actually dented the rear quarter from the inside. It is a small dent from pushing too hard and I am pretty sure my paintless dent guy can get it out. I cannot get it to seat in far enough to install the screws. Unfortunately I lost all my pictures from when I removed it so I have no reference.:stupid: I have an early series 1 california car and want to keep it original. Any help would be very appreciated. Thank in advance. John Happy Fathers Day (where applicable)

My opinion of the body is that it was hit hard on the passenger side at some point before it was parked. Very drastic difference in the paint oxidation between the door and the rear quarter. I would take a good look at the frame and weld areas. If all checks out I would pay no more than 3 grand for it. You have probably got at least 15 grand in repairs and paint there. John

If you are talking about the strip on the window trim, that should be part of the quarter window seals. There is a blowup of the quarter windows in Wickes book. Shows exactly how to take them apart and put them back together.

Boy, that white one looks pretty nice. If it checks out rust and damage wise I would spend the extra money to avoid the mileage if it is documented. You could easily spend 4 grand on bodywork if you have to contend with rust in the orange one. Good luck and don't forget to pull the trigger ;-) John

FYI, Precision kits (which MSA sells) are not available until at least January. They "damaged the molds" according to MSA and MSA and every other dealer I talked to yesterday is out of stock. MSA does still have individual gaskets but the cost goes up significantly. I ordered the Black Dragon kit because I had no other choice and was told that it is not made by Precision (although I am skeptical about that being that every other kit I found advertised was a Precision kit.) I would suggest ordering a kit if you need it from BD before they run out. You may be waiting a long time for an aftermarket kit if you don't. My 00000010 cents. John

I recently paid $90 for a good front bumper and a left and right rear corner that need total restoration. I wouldn't pay more than that because the chrome is going to cost you a few hundred each at least. John

I have a used set from a 73 if you dont find them anywhere else. Not sure if they are available new from courtesyparts.com but I am pretty sure zbarn.com would have them. John

The texture looks good in the pictures. Is it as close to original as the pictures show or is it off a bit? John

Seems way too cheap. But it is what it is. I may have to send my bumpers to Canada if he does nice work. Let me know how they look.

Let me know if you want any. Last quart I picked up was 6.47 + tax. I have no problem breaking stupid laws. John

I checked everywhere today (except for Nissan OEM) and ended up buying the BD kit because I couldn't find it anywhere else. Lots of companies advertise the Precision kit but do not stock it. They must drop ship from Precision and Precision is obviously out of them. I read on zspecialties.com that they make minor modifications to the kit that are required to ensure the doors close properly. http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/134/products_id/305 Does anybody know what these modifications are? John

So the BD kit has fewer pieces but does the same job as the MSA kit?

Anybody know if the BD kit includes all the same pieces as the msa kit?

Thanks for the quick reply. Did you install the trim in the front and back seals? I thought I read recently that it was more difficult with the BD kit. I also read that the door seals are tight. I agree, might not be a bad thing. I was told that Precision makes both MSA and BD kits. The difference being that MSA has (had) their own molds and BD uses the Precision's generic molds. John

I called MSA today for a weatherstrip kit and was told they have been out since early this year and won't have any until early next year. Precision (the company that makes them) damaged the molds and cannot produce them right now. I have heard that the Black Dragon kit is not quite as good so I am reluctant to purchase it. Any other suggestions for vendors that will be equal in quality, fit and comparable in price? TIA, John

Parts look good. Hit them with some metal ready or ospho and you are all set for por. John

I'm very motivated at this point. I can almost smell the exhaust fumes seeping in....

I wrote it up while I was waiting for the advil to kick in...

Try an impact wrench and a metric socket that just barely fits/needs to be tapped on. I did this just last week. Worked like a charm. John

Fairly busy weekend: Go to store to pick up necessary supplies - Check Cut and install padding for tranny tunnel - Check Install vinyl on tranny tunnel - Check Run antenna and speaker wire - Check Install gas filler neck and fuel door knob - Check (Black Dragon fuel flap doesn't fit right on early series 1) Install Firewall Insulator - Check Install new pedal pads - Check Install blower motor and heater core - Check Install new heater inlet and outlet hoses - Check Store original braided hoses for no apparent reason - Check Clean and install throttle linkage - Check Sand, Ospho and POR fuel tank - Check Sand and paint vapor return tank - Check Sand and paint radiator - Check Install radiator - Check Sand and paint fuel tank straps - Check Install rear diff by myself - (Can this even be done solo without a lift and tranny jack?) Clean and polish side markers and install - Check Fill and bleed clutch and brakes - NO Install bead blasted distributor - Check Polish and install tail lights - Check Install tail light surround - Check Remove PO's blue overspray from zinc plated parts - Check Install wiper tubing and nozzles - Check Wrap wiring harnesses with new electrical tape - Partially completed Install drive shaft - NO Install Half Shafts - NO Figure out where all these extra vacuum hoses and linkage parts go - :stupid: Install vapor return tank - NO Clean and install license plate light - Check All in all a fairly productive weekend. If my wife didn't have me running errands until 2 pm Saturday I might have gotten it all done. :mad: John

A google search for "1976 280Z Fuel Injection" turned up this descriptive link: http://people.ucsc.edu/~penniman/injectho/IHR.htm Hope it helps. There were lots of other links too. John

Try placing an ad in the classifieds: http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showcat.php?cat=5 I think I have drivers door glass from a 73 I parted. Pretty sure they are the same. John

Supposedly, DOT 5 will not eat your paint if you spill it on the frame rails and engine bay. I say supposedly because I will be filling/bleeding my brakes and clutch this weekend and am petrified about ruining my fresh paint.