IdahoKidd

Holy crap, anyone see the date on the original post? August 05.:stupid:

Not the fan clutch either. Took it and the fan off. No difference. I'm telling you, I have a bloody forehead from beating it on the wall. Even the local shops just grin and tell me it isn't possible, even though they can see it with their own eyes. Removing the fan belt does bring the engine heat up so it really does make heat, it just looses it really fast.

Hi Gibby, welcome to the forum and to the Z world! What year ZX? turbo or non? Auto or stick? Will the car just set and idle along fine? When it starts missing, does it do it just revving the engine or when it is under a load (driving). Does it ever reach a point it doesn't do it any longer (driving down the road at 55 for example, or after it runs for 20 minute) How familiar are you with cars? Can you tell if it sounds like fuel or if it sounds electrical? I can often tell the difference but probably can't tell you in writing how. Just an ear thing. I see you have changed the fuel filter. What is the history of the car? Has it been a daily driver all along, has it sat for some time, did the PO mention any issues? Did it work fine for a while and then the problem arise? Check obvious things like loose wires at the coil and distributor, pull the dist cap and spray the inside of the cap and the distributor itself with WD-40. At the top of the page is a "search" option. It is picky and will only find the exact words you put in. Search things like 'erratic tach' 'bouncing tach' 'engine miss' fuel starvation' etc and read through some of the posts. You'll find phrasing that will lead you to a different search and more information. I've seen this symptom listed a lot but have never followed through. I don't know if it is proper etiquette to refer you to a different site with more/different info, but at hybridz.org, there is a lot more zx information. Those guys are over the top anal about the search button and a vast majority of their cars have been altered, but still a lot of reading available and by association of similar problems, you might figure it out. It isn't likely a major issue, just a matter of finding it. I just re-read your post again. It isn't over-fueling by chance? These cars have a sensor in them that enrichens the fuel injection when the motor is cold and then turns itself off when it warms up. If it fails, it might lead to symptoms of having the choke on. Good luck and do let us know. The next guy that has the same problem and uses the search will find your questions and perhaps the answer. Leonard

I am not the original owner, I know the engine in the car came from a bone yard and know that it sat in the car, in a barn for at least 5 years before I got it. I agree there is or was a clog in a water jacket. What I can't figure out is why it has to heat the entire radiator to get any kind of engine temp. It literally takes 20-40 minutes to get a modest engine temp and that is with the rad 100% blocked. I have another completely rebuilt motor, nearly 5 grand worth, setting on an engine stand for a different project, but this motor runs so well....... I can't figure out why it doesn't overheat. I guess for now I keep driving it. Drove it all summer without issues other than it never got warm.

Update: With a pressure washer, I was able to force water through the back of the head. I did get a small amount of rust colored water to come out but nothing I would consider significant. However, I do now have some water flow to the heater core, enough to actually defrost the windows and heat the cabin. The other issue remains, regardless of thermostat, the water temperature remains that of the entire radiator, about 160 degrees. At least I can drive it again.

The heater core is not clogged, and in fact, completely unhooked. The two hoses that go to it are unhooked with no stoppers. There is no water movement there. I have longer hoses attached so I can deal with them easier. If I raise the end of the hose up to level with the top of the hood, no water ever comes out. If I lay them on the floor, it will drain the block and the radiator. However, even the water in the block never gets very warm and I am fully convinced it heats the entire radiator to operating temperature before the thermostat opens, and I can't figure out how that could possibly be happening unless the pump is pushing backwards. You can't imagine the headache I have from trying to figure this out. And yes, it is a 77 280Z, bone stock except for the poor radio and the sunroof. I have ruled out, at least for now, these two as possible trouble spots:disappoin

I am still chasing my no heat problem. Changed out the water pump this morning. Old one looks like new. Installed a new one anyway. With the motor running, temp gauge at midpoint, water moving across the top of the radiator at 160 degrees, I can pull off either and both heat hoses at the firewall and there is no water. If I lay the hose down toward the ground, it will gravity drain the block and radiator, but no circulating hot water. No circulating hot water equals no heat in the cabin. Where do I look next? Leonard

Ah the flashbacks. I had a 73 Dart Sport 340 back when. I sold the car to go to college. I am certain I am still alive because of that. Only car I ever owned that would boil the tires at 60 mph going down the road. Z's are a whole different world. While I have a garage full of Z's and not a single muscle car. I still yearn for a 70 AAR Challenger...... As Z Tyler said, read through the posts here and check out some other sites as well. Many of the folks here are purests which is awesome. Other sites go pretty radical with the Z's, often ending up with the only thing Z is the serial number. To each their own. Personally, I straddle that fence so that I can enjoy both. Z's are a lot like women, do a little homework and don't settle for the first one you find (you can always come back) and test drive a few as they are all different. Pick a good one and you'll be happy for a long time to come. Get one that requires ongoing maintenance, well, it can be a struggle. Leonard

Probably nothing serious. It is always a good idea to have the manifold trued when you reisntall it so that if fits flat, but beyond that, just irritating. Keep in mind it could be something else, but my bet is on a crack or a loose bolt, a hole in the exhaust gasket (something exhaust related)

I'd concur it is an exhaust leak. Check the manifold for a crack. As it gets hotter, the crack expands. Also look at the exhaust manifold bolt closest to the firewall (where the rear engine lift would be). That bolt is broken on three of my cars and one of them leaks there. Look for a black exhaust soot sort of mark. Here in Idaho I just run studded tires and you can't hear the exhaust leak anymore

The car 240dkw mentions in Canada should put it all in perspective for you. IF that is the type of car you want, what you already have can't be made to be like this one for that kind of money. Seems obvious to me. It is my opinion however.............

I'm trying to locate a recent post, it was here or on hybrid Z, a fellow found a red, right hand drive in a wrecking yard in the midwest. The condition was much better than what you have. While I personally have never seen one, there are some around.

2 cents: Use it for a thousand dollars worth of parts and buy a better shell to start with. I've done this sort of thing for years and years. With the experience you have, you will never be able to get this car saved, even with $16K. Spend 2K on a good shell, use the parts from this one and you will be way better off in the long run. Worrying now about the dash, paint, etc, very premature. You have a very long time before you care any where near any of that. It is great to dream. Keep the dream, but do it with a different car. FWIW Leonard

The file from that website has been independantly confirmed as corrupt and won't open.

When doing the 91 honda blower motor swap, no one mentions if they use the civic motor with a/c or a non a/c blower motor. About $60 difference. Let me know. Thanks!

Thanks. However, I can't get that link to open.

For those who have followed along in a different thread, you know I have been chasing an engine no heat problem. I "may" have that fixed. It "may" have been an air blockage. That problem aside, I have most of the underside of the dash apart to inspect the heater control valve. When chasing the other problem, after moving the control in the cabin from hot to cold back and forth rapidly, I lost coolant flow through the heater core (as determined with the 5/8 hose off the core under the hood. I suspected I bent the wire. However, everything moves like it is supposed to. I took a separate piece of hose and tried to blow through the heater core. There was no movement of air or water. Moving the control several times and blowing again, quite firmly, it purged coolant and I can now blow freely through the core. So the question: I can blow freely through the core with the control in the warm AND the cold position. I can see there is a small diameter copper tube that runs to the valve. I can't determine exactly what it' function is, but how do the two interact? What tells the valve to restrict the water flow to keep the heat in the heater core? Should I be able to blow through the valve in any position? (this is a 77 280, non a/c, manual operated via wire, not vacuum) FWIW, I bought an FSM online in disc form. Put it in the computer and it locked up the computer. After getting it rebooted, I can not get the disc drawer to open or the computer to read the disc. Short story, I don't have a manual. I have part of today off and would like to put the car back together but don't want to do so if I have to take it apart again. I do have another manual ordered but really don't want to wait that long. Is there a simple way to confirm the control valve is working properly? Thanks! Leonard