Everything posted by grantf
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
Ok my last calculation is 18.5 mpg. That is mostly in city and some Seattle freeway (these days that is stop and go). So not to bad I think. But at times now my engine sputters and I here a little popping on deceleration. Could this be lean due to leaky manifold?? My car did not due this till I made my adjustments.
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I've got the outside put back together! pics
Wow that is a clean car.
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1977 280z + perks
Is you're car in the golden gardens pic I can't find it. Mine is the yellow one.
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New exhaust
Was it running better before the new exhaust? could you have a mainifold leak?
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Turn Signal Went Up In SMoke
I had the exact same problem on my 77. Still not sure what caused it. I took apart the switch, cleaned the contacts and pulled the little spring that puts tension on the copper contact thingy to give it a better contact. My turn signals work great now. But this was after I took apart the high beam low beam switch, I mistakenly thought this was the culprit and in the process the contact plate crumbled apart :tapemouth Now I need a new one. Dave? can you help?
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
Sooooooooooooo....... It is to early to tell so far, but since I had to back the tension off a little to make it run right, could this mean that after setting everything back correctly that I could have been running lean!!! putting my car into the same scenario as Yours? (Fastwoman's and Coseye's). Oh and did blue do the write up at Atlanic Z? whoevere did gets a huge thanks also.
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Engine hook broke off what now?
That's what I was thinking, straps. but I would even go with larger ones than those. They may be strong enough but as the first post pointed out, Fingers are a good thing to have around for life.
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Dual Weber Pictures/Hello
Or road warrior, If the roof hood did open. You could mount guns inside. just pop the roof hood and fire away. Note that it would open out the rear so I guess that would be the tail guns.
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
it was 12 teeth to loose I moved it 12 teeth CW but backed it off about 4. So in all I tightend the spring by 8 teeth.
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Dual Weber Pictures/Hello
I just about peed myself laughing.
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
Ok, I ran my the 10 gallons through. I calculated 16.7 MPG. Hey quite the improvement! I have adjusted the AFM both the wiper setting and the spring tension with 148 grams of weight, it was about 12 teeth off. the car seemed to be a little gutless so I backed the tension down about 4 teeth, Wow what a difference! I thought the car was running good before. Now it seems like a different car. 10 gall added and I will calculate again my mgp. I think I am there now! Also I will pull the plugs look at them clean and read them again after 100 miles or so. Stay tuned and thanks again.
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Dual Weber Pictures/Hello
Is That a hood on you're roof?! how many gallons of bondo are you up to? Though I like the stock look you're car actually looks well.... sort of cool. have you looked up the ratsun site? A klingon Z of prey.
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I've got the outside put back together! pics
Arrg! Hey, my car is getting there.
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I've got the outside put back together! pics
the problem now is any scratch or blemish will be a drag. Nice car, You have done great body work. the bumpers look nice, I hope they don't need use (if you know what I mean).
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
I think I may purchase a cheap electronic scale. My identical twin brother is using one that works great for mixing epoxy hardener for his "flying Z" http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/
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Lucky 4000 mile Z
Wow! now I know what my engine bay should look like.
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
Fastwoman, My car is registered as a 78, but another Z owner at a meet up here in Seattle looked at my engine and vin number. He suggested that my car was actually an early 77. He was correct. My car is indeed a 77. The shut off arm and wiper are linked so if I adjust it back to the correct setting I should have fixed two problems. I would like to do a complete recalibration of the AFM but I am a little confused regarding the pop can method. Looking at the Atlantic z article I can see how to do it but I am unsure how much weight/water should be used. Are his weights posted the ones I use or just what he found he needed. Can you clarify?
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
HA!!! I found something new. Thanks to fastwoman for making me to revisit the AFM. Remember my earlier post when I wrote how my fuel pump always ran? now I know why! Someone has mucked with the AFM in the past for sure. look at these pics the old one I posted and the one from the Atlantic Z site. notice how the wiper contact is about 8 mm from 0 volts when the meter is completely closed, and how the shut off switch is not even touching, and where it should be. I did a quick test by gently moving the fuel shut off and it works! I am down to about a half tank now and I think I am getting about 15 mpg. after I am on empty again I will calculate My mpg then make an adjustment to the afm. I really think I have found the two major culprits but still need to get my vacuum up, Stay tuned
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240z front on a 280z
Buy a 240z and put you're zx engine in it. It would be easer.
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
I believe I have my TPS adjusted properly now. Before the left contact was always closed. Now the right contacts when the engine is in idle and open at about 1200 rpm the right only when the throttle is wide open (punch it). I believe that this was the root of my problem. I am a little aprehensive of adjusting the AFM, I have read the atlantic Z article, perhaps this weekend I will carfully try to adjust it. Also a good time to revisit the yogurt. At work I use mapp gas not propane is this suitable for testing or to "volatile". When I filled up last I drove home, pulled my plugs and cleaned them so as to see how I am doing after the 10 gall. Thanks again both, for pointing me in the right direction. I wonder if the PO was trying to "hot rod" the engine now, 15 deg advance, tampered AFM and full trottle bent in on the TPS.
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F@CK!!! I think I have a blown manifold gasket!!!
Arrrg! this is my own fault for posting the above so quickly. No I do not think I "shocked" any metal, nor cracked or re tempered, or stressed anything. Also I have not forced any bolts hard enough to snap anything, my "snugging" down bolts was by hand only using a box end wrench, little force if any. I would prefer advice on increasing manifold vacuum and leaning out the mixture on efi systems. Really! what would happen if I was driving on a hot day for 3 hours and then hit a mud puddle? Really now! come on!
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Finally Cleaned up the 240z
Cool car. Where are the running lights? and what's up with the fuel filler?
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MPG timing, fuel, and ??
update: So far I have rectified the sensor plugs being swapped, I am surprised my car ran at all. Adjusted the TPS, I am sure this contributed to my problem. Replaced the vacuum lines that were in doubt, I still only have between 15 and 16 in HG though it is quite the improvement over what I had before, also tightened down the valve cover bolts, they were really loose and tightened the PCV hose, I could turn it with my fingers before. Adjusted the timing to 10 deg at 800 rpm and tested the vacuum advance it advanced about 5 deg with vacuum applied using a mighty-vac, though "I had to keep pumping it to maintain vacuum, does this mean the dash-pot thingy is leaking? also I noted that after getting the water temp sensor to operate correctly my engine ran rough until it warmed up, this makes some sense though if it is enriching the mixture on an engine that already is running to rich. the ohm reading for the temp sensor makes sense now and seems to coincide with the chart pretty closely. I have been checking it hot (I believe around 180 deg to cold, around 75 deg and it seems about right. another thing I did was back out the idle mixture screw about 8 turns, it was about 6 turns out from bottom and the engine idles really well now. so next my car was on empty so I wrote down my mileage and put 10 gall in. When I am on empty again I will post my results. I am hopeful but a little pessimistic. Also I did do the yogurt cup test, It was inconclusive, I now understand how it can help diagnose a vacuum leak but in my case I could not pinpoint where it could be coming from other than the manifold gasket itself, I understand that this could be an unfortunate reality, but as my car is running good I will put this idea in my brain's closet for now. I have read up on Fastwoman's thread along with Cozeye's problem and mine seems to be coming from the opposite direction, though I now understand why you put the resistor in line from the WTS. I think I need an anti resistor!! anyhow time will tell (or ten gallons).
- MPG timing, fuel, and ??
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F@CK!!! I think I have a blown manifold gasket!!!
The block. So this would be the intake and exhaust gasket. I actually tightened the rear most nut. surprisingly I got about a 16th of a turn out of it. Normally I would expect the nut to not budge at all being a rusty exhaust bolt. My vacuum is back to near 15 in Hg. So I am thinking that my vacuum being low may be due to the an intake/exhaust manifold leak. I believe that nothing detrimental occurred from my engine cleaning and that this may not be a new symptom. May I ask the forum administrator to revert this thread to my timing and mpg thread, My apologies