grantf

Hmm.. Zed head that is food for thought, I have checked my fuel pressure after the filter it is good. Water temp sensor resistence I have not checked, How do I check that (thread link). You are correct in that my mpg is a guess, but it is really bad I am sure it is south of 15 mpg and my exuast really stinks of gas. what do you mean by the pressure dropping with intake vacuum?

or it sounds like a good excuse for me to take a sunny road/boat trip with my Moto Guzzi, girlfriend (Her Ducati) and my fuel gauge to the San Juans!!! Or WTF my car is a 77 also I could race her there, then go scuba diving. Sorry got summer time on my mind.

where did You purchased them from?? Are you confident that the injectors are matched?

See, I told you, can you take a caliper reading on the yogurt cup so I can find the proper beer can? Fastwoman, I will try you're test soon (for another reason), Brento there is no way anyone here can diagnose youre engine trouble, that is why people give different test suggestions, I would listen to both cozye and fastwoman test you're vacuum and you're fuel pressure then continue from there but try the simple things first I have noticed that the efi system on my 77 needs little adjustment but it does need maintenance does this make sense?

So I have been trying to get better gas mileage in the last few days. So far I have done some easy things that needed to be done anyhow like a new spark plug wire set and rotor cap, an oil change, inspected and replaced a leaky vacuum hose and a timing adjustment. So far nothing has really improved engine performance with the exception of the timing, it was about 5 deg. advanced not to bad. I timed it back to the 10 deg. mark and the engine seems to run smoother no real power increase but it does run nice and has a stable idle. So next is to look at the spark plugs to see what they can tell me and I am thinking about bringing my injectors in to an injector shop for cleaning and service, Doctor Injector in Renton, the guy I talked to seemed very knowledgeable and quoted about $34.00 per injector plus 25 if the hoses needed replacing. MSA has a new set for $370.00. Any opinion for one over the other or a different solution for bad gas mileage. I had been getting about 10 mpg now I think maybe 12. I still have the odor of gas coming from the exhaust.

Sounds like something is wrong with the center contact from the coil on the cap no?

thanks, I seem to recall these glued on my car also but I was not sure if if this was original or something the PO did.

here is the questionable area. nobody has a picture of this area factory original or otherwise? Glue or no? this part is not that pricey but it has taken 5 months for delivery and I don't want to screw it up.

Fast woman, I am impressed, I was surprised to find that I could fit 8' drywall corner bead in my 77 and still close the hatch. People at work are starting to make fun of my 280 "truck".

Ha that dent looks familar...

Love the color. I am sort of jealous, My car was not a restoration, more of kill the rust and make it look presentable.

Thanks Bonzi. So is the seal glued to the ss window channel? do you have a picture of the seal showing the outside wher it meets the lower window area?

I just received the right front door seal from MSA today (still waiting for the left one). I am unsure on the installation. Other than the three clips the end looks a little confusing where it meets the window seal and ss trim, do I use glue there? I am having a hard time finding pictures of this part properly installed. Anyone have pictures of this part installed from the factory or after restoration?

here. The first is what the repair shop did, second is after putting my old part back on and aligning the bumper

I got my some of my old parts back (well actually just the bumper end). It turns out the used one they installed was missing a bonded stud so they cannibalized the one from my old bumper end :mad: So I had to cut it back out of the POS they put on my car, and glue it back on. In addition the right hand bumper strut was bent in a little from the damage and I managed to tweak it back a little. here are pics of the end after my fix and after the professional job .

Oh almost forgot, My dash cap is labled PALCO 303. no D

Ok just for fun I temporarily installed my dash cover, I used no glue just slipped it on and screwed down the defroster cover. I think I will leave it on for a while and let the sun and hot interior help it to conform to shape. glove box is a little sticky and I see some misalignment here were the two knobs are. Is this close to what you are experiencing? I could slip the trip reset knob on but it is rubbing. I did notice there is some room to adjust the knobs and I think before I permently install the cover I may heat some areas up and conform them a little closer to were they need to rest. Overall not a bad fit but not perfect.

If you read the OP you will see he knows this. Just be nice to see the cap on without the knobs so we can see how for off. I purchased a full dash cap from MSA and have yet to install mine, it would be nice to see his before I find out the same problem.

No I have not performed an accurate reading with my meter yet (need another body, longer leg, or third hand). And I understand that the in dash gauge is inaccurate. I have compared the 78 and 77 wiring diagram and it does look like the correct wires have been jumped only that there is an open blue and an open black. The black does not concern me as it was for grounding the old regulator but the blue has me wondering. Yes I do have a little bit of a low idle speed, but with the lights on I only get enough amps at around 1500 rpm. hmmm I am going through cleaning connections but no real change yet. I hope I do not have to make another alternator swap.

Having some volt/ amp issues with my car. It runs and starts great but at night with the lights on the volts drop to around 11, during the day when driving around 3000 rpms the volt gauge climbs to around 15.5. I am thinking this is a regulator issue. sometime before I bought the car it had been converted to an internally regulated alternator, which I have since replaced. Wondering if the conversion was done correctly. Note only two sets of wires are jumped and the color match up looks odd.

I am not sure I see the problem, can't see till you remove the knobs and push it in all the way.

is there any perticular reason or advantage?

Silly me, I did not push the coil wire firmly into the distributor. :stupid: It runs now. On a side note, I replaced the dizzy cap today, it turns out I have a zx dizzy, is this common? Thanks for the quick reply fastwoman, I have got a ton of info from you're posts.

Man to bad it's the drivers side, after my misshap I ended up with a spare passenger side compleat assembly. I got mine from evilbay for about 35 buckazoids. sorry this is no help to you at all.

My 77 280z has run pretty good for a year now, ran great today till I decided it was time to do some maintenance. I parked the car at about 5:00 pm, popped the hood and inspected the distributor cap , has worn contacts, put it back on, looked at the ignition cable contacts and found bright blue residue on one, cleaned it and reinstalled, tried to start the car at 6:00 pm and it ran then died after 2 seconds, now it does not fire, I checked for spark, good, checked fuel pressure good, near around 40 psi, then a return line hose split and burst fuel, I will fix this in the morning, but I do not see why suddenly my car would not start, I cannot find anything that changed other than me looking at it. So got fuel, got spark, now what? oh and I listened for injectors firing with a screwdriver pressed to my ear and thought I heard a very quiet tic tic tic but I am uncertain if what I am hearing is the injector or something else. Help:disappoin