grantf

ya I hope you did not fry anything. I have a 77 that has an internal regulated alternator, but the old regulator has been disconnected and the correct wires jumped. The 77 was the last Z to have an external voltage regulator, located under the fusable link bracket.

Yes, that was right before the influx of people moving up here from Califonia. :ogre: oops! now I started something. Back to my yellow car. Really, back to the Z.

Ok, now You can stay on you're green moral high horse and look cool (or a little geeky):

Who, what is wick? (pardon my ignorance) Now that I think back to doing work on my car I do remember pealing the old gaskets off. My car had been repainted but it was a crappy Macco job so they had just masked off the tail light finisher.

just a quick suggestion: make sure you have good conections and a good ground to the ignition control module, located above the fuse block, passenger side. Sevice manual: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

me want!!! need. pm on its way. And you may not need to ship them, An excuse to take a motorcycle trip to Victoria!

You must be saying 2k for body work and 2k for paint if you are paying someone to do it. Not doing the work yourself.

That is what I thought, and if I ever had to make a repair (as I have after being rear ended) the gasket would not be ruined. But I do not know how the factory installed them.

I did not use any adhesive, perhaps I should have....

Nice Score!

Some of the MSA seals are great and some are crap and some will not be there, But the windshield and hatch glass seals are pretty good, just take you're time intalling the SS trim it's sort of a pain at first.

You may make more money buy parting it out but a z will be lost forever. It's you're car but it would be a shame.:disappoin

nice car.

Yes my brake light was out. And yes at the time I did thank him. Sorry did not mean to start a car vs cyclist war. Thant is the best smiley ever. I am still laughing

Cozye, would you say that the degree of responsibility for you're own safety be the same on a bicycle in downtown streets as a motorcycle? I ask this because this is where more often conflicts occur. It is simply harder to see a cyclist or motorcycle at times. A motorcyclist learns to be visible and to be cautious, where as (at least here in seattle) there is the additude that cyclists have no resosibility for protecting themselves from harm, that it is up to other vehicles to avoid them, or as here in seattle paint the roadways with bike icons everywere (I don't understand that at all).

second that.

I posted the above because I thought it was respectful and rare (though others may not have responded as I did). I am more than willing to share the road with a cyclist as long as they use the same rules as any other vehicle (including signaling, obeying traffic lights and not drifting traffic). But I think they should take the motorcycle safety course, in that you learn that you have a low visual profile and it is you're responsibility to not get hit buy a car or truck. As a motorcyle rider it is up to me to stay safe, I wish cyclists had the same mindset.

that looks similar to my car's wheel placement. on another note: though I am not not a big fan of blacked out SS and chrome it seems to work on you're car, Nice Z.

Black is the most difficult to pull off, but it looks like you are doing to. nice job.

So here in Seattle there are quite a few self righteous cyclists that think they do not have to follow the rules of the road and take responsibility for there own safety. It's a common complaint I have. Today on my way home from work I see a bike commuter approaching my car from behind and he stops next to me and places a hand on the roof of my car for balance. I'm thinking to myself "oh no not again". I roll down my window and he looks in and says "the right brake light is burnt out on you're very nice car" then he proceeded on his way after the light changed. Well I guess they are not all bad.

If someone could find the rubber piece without the SS peice I could figure out a way to fasten it. I need them also.

I little warmer an dryer here in Seattle today so I took advantage of the weather (no garage) and replace the broken drivers side door handle. What a pain in the arss, Again my right hand is scratched up and bleading, but it's nice to not have to go around to the passangers side of the Z to get in.

Factory Timing is I think the 10 deg mark. I would start there and see if performance is improved or not. I set mine to 10 deg but latter moved it up to about 12. May be a stupid question but do you have it set 7 deg retarded instead of advanced? Anyhow another thing to test is the vacuum advance on you're dizzy to verify that it is working properly.

YIKES :eek:

It looks like you have found the culprit, but it is a really good idea to check all of you're efi system. To test the FPR you will need a fuel pressure gauge and a vacuum gauge. the water temp sensor can be tested at the ecu connector at the lower drivers side kick panel, you can test most of the EFI electrical systems there using a multi meter and the factory service manual: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html check and clean all electrical conections and for sure inspect all vacuum hoses as a vacuum leak will cause the engine to not run optimally and could cause a miss diagnosis. Good job you are saving money in two ways: less gas and understanding you're engine so as to not throw new parts at it or paying a mechanic that does not understand older EFI. let us know youre progress.