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Zs ondabrain: i here ya man. looking at a flaw everyday is annoying....especially the time we Z guys spend on our cars.... i bought a brand new dash for my 280, and it came in with a tiny flaw....Pis@%#$ed me off!!!

have the guy send you a photo of it...i THINK the 260's are like 280 dashes...

madkaw. fyi. i installed an OEM front valence panel from Nissan for my 77. even the oem piece was hard to fit!!! last time i had an issue with MSA i spoke with Sal. though i'm not sure if he's there anymore. whomever is in his position now should take care of you. either way, MSA should do the right thing as they have for me in the past. good luck.

thanks sblake!..i'll write that down for future reference, yet might not need it... so i went through my old box of hoses and decided to make my own. some 3/8" fuel hose and some 3/4" coolant hose did the trick. heres how. luckily the 3/8" hose fit snug over the rod ends, and the 3/4" coolant hose fit tight over the 3/8" fuel hose needed as bushing back for the washers. i rotated the 3/8" hose on fine stone bench grinder so i'd have a two-sized piece of rubber, glued the two together to make the 'stock' looking bushing. i needed to grid off some of the 3/8" fuel hose down so it wouold fit the inside of the linkage armatures. when installed it fit tight as a frogs butt!!!..like a new transmission!!! the photos are of the pieces i made and used. the install photo looks like there's sideways slack, but that is just the camera flash off the greased edge of 3/4" hose. ALL is tight as new!! the last pic is of my car best of all it's done NOW...and for FREE

looks like the rubber donut. #25. here's mine . the front one is CRUSTY and almost gone. the one off the gear selection handle (down linkage arm) is totally gone.... sblake: i can only zoom in one click...can't make out the actual part #. THANKS A TON !!

hey guys...so i climbed under the car and found the OBVIOUS problem. the linkage arm bushings are SHOT. ALL the slop is there. the handle bushings (under the console-interior) are fine. the trans upshifts and kicks down properly and always has. the slop was only fore and aft along the gear selection movement. inhibitor switch and armature is tight. since it's sunday, i may as well ask. anyone have a part# or alternate suppliers out there. thanks again

got it guys...job done

p.s. zs ondabrain...i guess the off-centered thing is bugging you too (larger side gap R vs. L )...they still look good )

thanks guys...i'll get out my fingers on it... zs ondabrain: why did the MSA faces suck?...they look good!...outside of the vinyl issue...which quite frankly, i wouldn't have noticed if you didn't say anything )

hey all, looking to swap the gauge face from my 77 tach onto an older (tall skinny typefont) tach. the wire harness is the same (maybe from a 74-75Z (?). it seems necessary to remove the needle to be able to lift off the gauge face....how do you remove the needle?.... thanks

thanks for the help guys Ralph at 'thezconnexion' has the new bushings for like two $...i'll do that first. i'll keep you guys in the loop

hey all, my 77Z admittedly has a bit (a lot) of slop in the gear selection handle. sometimes when i turn the car off it fails to start. dead. i move the selector to 'P' or into 'N' once or twice and she'll turn right over. i suspect it would be an electrical contact down there..... i read in the service manual to check the inhibitor switch or gear selector linkage. however, i don't have any experience with automatics. good advice is always appreciated. thanks !!

hey carl beck, i rigged my SU's to have the airhorns. i wanted to keep the venturis after watching the ZTherapy video.

check ALL components of your front end susp and steering. ANY slop in anything will give you a shaky wheel..

so iwas about to start a streeing rack swap on my 77Z and found that one of the TC rod nuts backed out of torque specs and was loose against the large retaining washer (urethane bushings installed several months ago). i tightened it up and voila! no more wiggly steering wheel. moral of this story. CHECK YOUR SUSPENSION NUT/BOLTS TORQUE SETTINGS every couple months and use mid grade Lok-Tite

FWIW i just replaced the windshiled (safelite did the installation) on my 77 and i(fingers crossed) bought the $50 MSA replacement one....to my surprise it went fine in and looks G-R-E-A-T !!!

...so if you felt bad...why did you sell it?

Jeff G 78 "...but we all know that these cars are anything but investments." -statement of the year!!!

that one has been on eBay before. sounds like he's just trying to flip it for a quick buck. he mentions $17,000 as an previous asking price (and an offer was accepted) ......i bet he paid $8 or $9K for it thinking he could get the previously advertised $17,000

i never had luck with protecting my car against door dings with molding....my 1st gen 300zx (driver) is full of dinngs and the 300ZX HAS stock molding...it all depends on the shape and profile of the (moron's) door that is dinging you..best remedy: park FFFFAAARRR away from other cars..

must be a cost thing with hemmings. i've seen (text only ) a lot of cars on there w/out photos

hey all, just raised the console to troubleshoot why the choke light doesn't come on... bulb is GOOD choke light switch is GOOD i've checked my hard copy FSM's schematic, and don't see the choke light or switch anywhere on the drawing. it seems that the red and black male connector behing the fuse panel never has power. this male connector goes to the female choke light switch. the switch is a simple single loop open when choke lever is down and closed when up. i also see the larger loom of wires that attach to the underside of the fuse panel into the main loom from the passenger side. without the schematic i'm kind of at a loss.. any help would be great ! not sure if i want to be annoyed by the light anyway, as one of my old Z's lever vibrated up and would blink the console light anyway

nice car cutlass! as above, drive it around a while then see. keep in mind that the few weeks you spend with the car 'as is' will pay off in fixing the stuff that needs attention most (brakes). no rush. just hang with it then decide. as 240znz says put a realistic cost next to each mod you want to do. price yuor parts first....the add 20%..why you may ask?......just because! IMO p.s. if you need a drivers side replacement seat and backrest foam (foam only) let me know. i have an extra set.

where to start? rust, suspension, paint, track mods, engine mods, interior? how much do you want to spend? take your pick. dead link to your photos.

hey mike!!!. Yes it was in NJ (Linden, if i recall). small world!! i spoke to the owners' son about it and he said there was NO RUST. he sent me detailed pics, and spoke about it in length to me over the phone, but didn't mention the floor issue, even when i specifically asked. he sounded stand up but i guess not. sorry to hear that. i still think you got a good deal!. enjoy it )