Lazeum

I went with a different path than most of you. I purchased a 72 240Z 6 months ago. I had some budget and I was looking for one in real good condition (i.e. as few rust as possible). I paid 8k$ for it, pricey maybe for some (the car is not stock anymore - L28, Webers, Cams) but I was feeling rude to buy the car for cheap knowing how much time and money the previous owner spent (it was probably still cheap anyway). It's my first old/classic car and I don't want to be overwhelmed with the work to do and lose the motivation. So I bought one in good shape with freshly rebuilt engine, new brakes, new interior made by a Z enthousiast (who was crying the day I bought it, I almost bring the car back to him). I still feel that the Z still doesn't really belong to me yet (even if I wrote a check ), I did not put a picture of her as an avatar for instance. Each time there's an opportunity I put my hands on it, I look for the missing part, I try to put back parts that were not installed the way they should, etc... The car is not perfect, she still needs some work done (some wiring to review, linking gas tank, raw gas smell inside the cabin,...) so I've got plenty of small project to take care of. I have a list of stuffs to buy, stuffs to fix, stuffs I want to change, etc. I also learn a lot by reading forums, books, watching videos... My goal is to keep her several years, learn how she's made and do someday a real restauration by myself (as much as I can) but right now I enjoy the car, drive her when I can (still at least one month to wait for salt to get out of the roads... ) I was looking for a Z like this for almost 4 years. I also almost bought one year ago 2 240Z to make one good car out of them. With some feedback, it would have been a mistake to invest myself into this kind of project now, I'm not ready. I also strongly discourage/warn my friends who are less involved into cars than me to buy a rusty project car. The cool story is that I will continue to work on the car the way the previous owner did. We're still in contact, he asked me to meet to see the car during spring, I'll be more than happy to let him drive it again and enjoy it :classic:. It also a way for me to show him that he sold the car to a new Z enthousiast who is taking care of her.

I believe what's important also is the finish of the plate. The best finish for our application would be chrome on the exhaust side to reflect rays and heat and black on the carbs side to absorb heat. I would take one I'll set you the money as soon as there's enough people on the waiting list if you don't mind

I think $165 is very pricey too. I don't know if there's a lot of R&D into this piece. If the part is not dsigned correctly if it will rattle. The design he's made looks stiff enough to avoid rattling... Zs-ondabrain, if you're going to make some for cheap. I might be in for one

I found this item but it's not for 40 DCOE, only for bigger ones http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt46915/pd944882/DRIP_PANS_SIDEDRAFT_CARBS._INTAKE_TRIPLES._SOLEX_WEBER_OER_

There's good info here I've got some 17" with 215/45-17, tokico struts and lowering spring. The ride is very harch. The overall look of the car is good but you lose the classic shape of the car with big wheels IMHO. I also think: Rims with chrome lip => 16" Unicolor Rims => 15" With a soft which can create gif files you can make pictures like this to know which wheels you like the most

It looks great! How do you assemble it? Is it clamped in between the head and the carbs? What happens if heat is too important? Do you experience some lack of power? I haven't experienced it yet. I have Weber 40 DCOE and coated headers.

Could your doors be bent? did you try the trick of the $1 bill to check the seals? Regarding the sunroof, did you see some water coming from it? Is the roof top wet when it rains? Can the water came from the firewall as well? I believe it might if some gromets are old and cracked.

I'm from Europe (France) as well but I live in the US. I'll be back one day with my Z. I'd better buy everything I need before to go back.

You can do really nice stuffs for sure Or with those 2 pictures: & You can come up with that:

If you want some useful tutorials, you can look at the link below. I've learn a lot with those http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=30378

The red car interior looks amazing!!! I know what I have to do on mine, I just need some money and many years

You're welcome

Concerned by the fact that I did not understand how I can get different results with same setup, I've checked all connexions twice, cut wires to get solid contacts. It worked! The car now run smoothly, the tach is working, no more smoke or misfire I basically run the adapter between the white/green wire and the red wire without bypassing the resistor I'll see how it goes, it there's an opportunity, I'll still get a 280z tach just in case (and when I have time to swap it) I hope this can help others to fix their car. I'm learning, I'm happy - Issue close -

I assumed it right then, the tach seems to be fixed for now. Everything seems to work very good for now in my garage in neutral, It's snowing now, I'll have to wait to make sure everything is OK and test it on the road. It's good to see stuffs moving forward I basically did not change anything on the current setup, I've just add the adapter between the white/green wire and the red one.

I'm working on fixing my tach since it's not working because of Mallory ignition system (car is 72 240z with L28, mallory ignition, 3x Weber). I've also got the tach adapter. The tach adapter is plugged between the green distributor wire (Dist. Trigger?) and red wire (coming from the ignition - 12V when key is on "on" position). I've tried first without bypassing the ballast resistor. Tach was working only when key was on "Start" position. Then, I've tried to bypass the resistor, the tach is now working as it should .... but the engine does not run properlly anymore: misfire, smoke like crazy (white smoke), stalls if i release the gas pedal (even with the choke on) and backfires in carbs (3x Weber). Adapter is hot as well after 1 min. (100-110ºF). I've decided to troubleshoot the issue by going backward. I removed the bypass of the resistance, The tach is still working very well :paranoid: whereas it was only working on "start" position before. I'm very confused! What happens? Bad connection? Why do I have 2 different results for the same setup? Anyway, the engine still does not run as it should. Actually to bypass or not the resistor did not change anything. It seems that the adapter is the issue on my engine running bad (bad ignition?) but it also seems to be the way to solve the tach issue.... I'm going nowhere I've unplugged the adapter, the car works like a champ now but without tach. What to do now??? There is a diode with the adapter, can it help? I do not know what to do. Please advice. If I don't find any solution, I may move to the 280z tach but it bothers me to remove stock interior parts from the car (since those are the only stock parts left ) Link to a post which help me a lot with the wiring I've used. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=86491

I've already got the tach adapter. It's not installed yet. I have the mallory tach adapter which is very similar to the MSD 8910. My real concern is where to find under the hood the correct cable to plug the tach wire from the mallory ignition unite. (the yellow one on the picture) Thanks for your anwser btw

In addition to my previous post, I've made a pic of my tach. We can clearly see a yellow/red wire which is not mentionned into the wiring diagram (it should be green) I do not see neither the white an dblack wire I was talking about... I'm confused

As my tittle says I'm not able to find the tach wires into the engine bay of my 72 240z. The previous owner installed a mallory ignition system (Mallory Unilite distributor + Mallory Hyfire 6AL ignition) but did not take care of the tach wire. The wire I'm looking for should be a black and white wire which should have been plugged to the coil when the car was stock. On the following wiring diagram, we can see which wire I'm talking about I doubt the previous owner cut or removed the wire when he did the swap. Where does this cable go???? I've tried to see if I can find this wire by following the harness from the cabin with no luck. Where should this wire be? Can someone look at his stock setup? I've taken picture of my system, There's one black/white cable but it's plugged to the red ignition system wire, so I assumed it's ignition wire and not the tach. The car is working absolutely fine, I assume everything then is okay. I just need the rpm tach to work... (I do not like how the wires are tapped, I'm going to change that soon Don't pay attention then :cheeky: ) Thanks! I've made a post as well on HybridZ with the diagram for the mallory system fyi. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=825065