Lazeum

If you'd like to remove the 2 sides of the lens, first of all, you'll have to remove a no-back washer in the middle of the back of the lens on a long plastic chromed pin (from the chrome horizontal trim piece you can see between top and bottom clear light rows). This is a difficult step since everything is so brittle. I suggest 2 ways of doing it: - The nasty & convenient way: You break the big pin with the washer still in. - The long, boring and clean way: You use some long cutting pliers to cut the no-back washer. With some patience, you can do it. I've done it on the 2 extra ones on each side (the 2 ones that hold the chrome trim to the clear side of the lens). With the nasty solution, to fix everything back together I've drilled in the clear lens a taper hole to replace the long pin with a tapered head bolt and a nut. To remove the 2 parts, you can see some spots with space between the 2 parts to let the lenses "breath". I've put a screwdriver with a flat tip and slide it gently to separate them. Heat from hot water could help since the compound used as glue will soften.

Nice pictures I guess I would post mine taken by another member from a different forum during a jap car show around Paris (under the rain)

For the headlight bucket alignment: Untight the 2x 2 bolts on the hood, with the hood opened, you in front of the car. Pull the top of the hood toward you while you're pushing (gently!) with your knee on the emblem (to rotate the hood clockwise if you look at your car from the passenger side), tighten back the 4 bolts => Hood aligned Regarding the space between the fenders and the hood, you have to play again with the same 4 bolts. Move the hood fore/aft on one side (meaning up or down when hood is fully open) to "rotate" the hood and get clearance when it is closed either on right or left depending on which side of the hood you moved fore/aft. You most likely would have to move both sides anyway since hood would have also to be aligned with the headlight buckets as well. you'll see what I'm talking about as soon as you'll try by yourself I did mine, it took me 4 hours to do it right, many fits and trials before to get it right Bodyshop did not suceed to make it fit; "your car is not straight" was their answer. They were wrong and I'm proud to have proved it

You could also try to adjust it. There are 2 bolts on the hood for pin location + the pin height can be adjusted by untightening the nut that hold it. To lube that pin, I sprayed WD40 on pin mechanism on the hood and on the mechanism on the firewall. I would also spray some into the cable hose for safety measure. It is probably not fun to brake the cable with the hood still close...

When I was in the US, I was driving a Mitsu Evo 8, awesome car! Now in France, I drive a Peugeot 206 s16/GTI, 2200lbs/140hp , it handles great but lack some power...

My dash is uncracked but dry. I've recently tried Meguiar's PlastX with no real success. Dash is still dry and grey-ish. I'm going to follow the thread to see what kind of solution we might have. So far, I'm just protecting the dash with the car parked in the garage and with a sun shade when parked outside.

Like the OP, I'd look at an Alfa GTV with the 1750 I've driven an Alpine A110 the other day. It was a blast to drive, Mid engine RWD, 1550 lbs, 4cyl 1.6L with 45DCOE which oversteer each time you release gas in curves It is "just" a little expensive: 50,000€ min OR a Renault 5 Turbo (price of those little mid engine turbo car is skyrocketing => +60% over the last 5 years) To be reasonable with a car under 10k€, this is what I would get, a Lancia Delta Evolution:

I had some MSA weatherstrip on my 72. Doors were very diffucult to close. I was worried about breaking the glasses since I had sometimes to slam the door very violently. I decided to remove them and to go to a different route. I went to the junkyard, I purchased some weatherstrip from another recent car (Renault Twingo in France). It works very well now! it cost me 20€ (worth a try, I guess). I've heard in the US, Acura integra weatrerstripping works well. Most of the new stuffs are clamped instead of being glued. It is better IMO It can look like a "ghetto" solution but the end result looks awesome and super clean but you deviate from stock if this is what you are looking for...

The technic I'm using is an electrolysis + wire brush to clean up any residual rust + Chloridric acid then home made zinc plating process. So far no result yet on my side regarding zinc plating (it still in process). What you need is time and a generator (battery charger, Power Unit from PC, etc...). There's plently of info on the net The following link is in French but you get the idea of the results you can expect I've used electrolysis for rusted parts, it works very well. I've done bolts, very rusted files (to try the method first) and a mustache bar with great success!

I swear I was not!!!!

I am paranoid too As much as I can I don't leave the car alone. But bad things can happen, you need to be prepared and remember it is just steel (as nice as it could be) I've got my Z keyed last year when I first pulled it out from winter storage; from the head light to the gas trap, deep enough I could see bare metal. Paint on my 72 is 3 years old, it is spotless. I was having a dinner in a restaurant with the Z parked almost in front of it. It is going so fast, you cannot react to those kind of issues... After a claim to the insurance and a 1500$ spent by the insurance (100$ deductible) in a body shop the car looks amazing again ...and don't get me wrong, the a** who did that would have been in a hospital if I would have caught him doing it!

I feel sorry for the MI roads... Moved from straight bumpy MI roads to smooth curvy forest roads nearby Paris The Z is very happy here. First time I smile in a car driving it because of my feelings. Poly bushings are the garage ready to be installed this year I also moved from 17" wheels with 215/45-17 tires to 15" wheels with 225/50-15. The ride is definitely softer and less crisp than before but the car is now more balanced and confortable (if I can say so...)

It's a Hybridz member who's selling those A V8 turbo plant should move those wheels quite ok

I've chosen the MSA 3 pt harness as well. My Z is a 72 and it fits fine. I'm 6'2 and I don't have any big complains. Or maybe a very small one, retractor touches the back of the seat; it makes a small squel noise when you move. I've fixed it by bending a little bit the bracket behind the seat to get more clearance and it is all good (but if there's a crash, bracket will want to become straight again - Not sure how good is it since it will get nore energy then during crash) Other drawback, the buckle is always falling between seats and center console/armrest. It is sometimes a pain to get.

You guys have very nice place for your Z! Mine sleeps under its cover in an old and rusty garage with spiders all around. Pics to come later...

You might want to look at the following link. Weatherstrip Rubber Kits on Hybridz.org I had two alternatives. I choose to pick up some seals from a car at the junkyard, they work great, they are easy to install, no glue, no need to slam the door to close them anymore and they cost 20€ where I am (France) You might want to give a try and find the good car... I've posted another message on the same thread about a vendor in Europe selling the same kind of new seals. They are not made specificaly for the Z but they will work as good as the ones I bought. I will be VERY surprized if you cannot find one in the states.

As a French person, I did not take it bad BTW, if you did not live in the US, I'm not sure you could understand it (this is kind of an US private joke...) I think this discussion should be closed. We've been around this issue enough to know what to think

Sean, My point is the use of those plates could be fraudulent. Knowing the value that an early Z could have compared to a more recent one might encourage some people to do so. Regarding the 260/280 Z story. I was more thinking about something done in the US where 260/280 are pretty common. Before I've got my 240 I was not aware about all the differences between different S30. I believe most of the changes are pretty small. I read Z forums for 4 years, I’m still sure that I do not know all the differences. Some are pretty obvious (but you can change them) such as taillight or hood vents. When I first saw the ads I was surprised to see the VIN being sold as it looks like the “special kit to change your “regular” Z into a low VIN number” which makes no sense in the US (it was on eBay US) except regarding value or special cases where there is no VIN to register the car (which is a valid point). So yes I was disappointed regarding the fact that I thought ti was only sold for the low VIN reason. As I stated in my post (page 1), in other countries such as France, this item could save a Z which would not be street legal otherwise. Knowing now the context, I understand the purpose of Sean’s action. I did not even know he was the one who has done the auction. I was also concerned that a member from the forum was using the French board to make the sale “more honest”. Sean is someone I trust, he’s also the one who makes the Z community to exist in France (=admin). I give full credit to Sean regarding Z’s. (…and I don’t say that to remain on the French board! )

this is a member of the French board I belong! Regarding French laws, having a low VIN number can help to pass emission test. 240z's are right in between 2 laws, cars before October 72 do not have to get emission tested (easy then to be registered as street legal car) Of Course it's perfectly illegal but this is why, I guess, it is sold. You have to know that my Z in France is worth €20,000 whereas it is worth less than 10,000$ in the US. (1€ = $1.40 !!!) They are very few S30 sold in France at this time (less than 1,000) so most of them are imported from the US. You have to do the whole nine yard to make it French legal (lights wiring to be modified, customs, brakes have to be good, emmision...) So you get a 260/280 which is worth less, you swap the VIN, swap the bumpers, leave the engine and your selling a 240z with a L28 swap for big money...

I've experienced this on my 72 Z this weekend for the first time... I played with the high beam switch and everything went back to normal. I'm following carefully this thread. If I found the reason, I'll post the fix

I was looking for rewinds as well 1 month ago. I ended up buying some rotas (15x7 et04) that I like as well. Seller had only 2 pairs remaining. Joker, your car looks good but I couldn't keep myself doing some quick and dirty mod to your picture

I bought one on ebay. It's a NOS part in perfect new condition. You should give a try. It cost me something like $5-6 + shipping

Something similar happened to me. My plugs were fouled so there was no sparks. Gas was just stuck inside the pistons then detonate with pressure and get out on the piston chamber trough wherever it can (the intake) I would start looking for your plugs and other ignition components.

It took me 4 years to find the one I wanted (Almost no rust, with only Datsun/Nissan parts with original interior) I found it on zcar.com but it was also on ebay. I would look also for local ads, newspapers. Z car can belong to elder people who don't use internet

Thanks for your comments. Funny part of ths story is that I'm a automotive mechanical engineer who designs suspension parts for a living (rear lower control arm of the GMC Accadia/Buick Enclave, for instance) To work on a classic car is a very different task. There's no passion in automotive business anymore, it's all about money so I've got the Z to keep my passion alive