Lazeum

I was thinking about doing it also on my MSA air dam. Not that I really need it but also to get some projects going and to make those "holes" functional. I was thinking about doing some ducts with fiberglass. Make a mold out of expandable foam you can shape yourself and then get 2 pieces made. Fixing them with pop rivets as Preith was suggesting. Next step would be to find out how to fix them in front of the brakes to make them efficient without interfering with wheels

I have the same exact issue with MSA belt. I can move the seat all the way back but it pushes then on the belt mechanism which at the end squeals each time I'm moving; very annoying!. I think bending the rod that attaches the mechanism to move it away and put it as flat as you can against the wall could help. I did not do it because I'd rather move the seat couple of centimeters forward than to have the rod bent that would get more stress in case of crash (it is maybe irrelevant, that's up to you ). One other alternative could also be to make a longer rod that would be more flexible and get the belt away for good from the seat. One way also to get more room would be to lower the back seat supports, there're washers below that could be removed to lean the seat more than stock position. I haven't tried it myself but by making some extra room, you could live with the belt the way it is (or make it even worst since seat might lean torwards the back....)

Are you sure it is a leak? Use a hose with one tip close to you ear and the other one where you beleive you might have a leak to make sure about it. Other solution is to spray some carb cleaner and check how engine react (if it revs, you have a leak) You should also have some gasket there. You might want to try to tighten up a little the studs. If it is between carbs and manifold, try to turn bolt by half a turn (do not compress them completely if you don't want to crush the o-rings you most likely have in between) How is your timing though?

I got rid of mine with an impact wrench. You should try this solution To torque it down to the right torque back is another problem afterwards...

I've learned how to tune my carbs with a wideband (Innovate LM2). Kind of expensive but I've learned a lot in the process and I had a good time doing it + I know some basics about tuning now On the other hand a good wideband is not more expensive than a dyno session with a tuner. I found the process to be very rewarding when I was doing a good change (90% of the time). Car screams and feels strong! FYI, I had a L28 high comp / mild cam (I had since combo was not so great because of low timing to fight knock): 40's Weber with 32mm venturi, 45f9 idle jets, 135 main, 180 air, F11 emulsion tube & 45 Accel. Air jets should be a step higher (195)

I'm thinking about doing it as well with shoe polish. I still have a crack free dash in my Z, but it is dull now. I've tried many stuffs on it without much success. 6 months is not a long period of time but I'll be curious to know how everything looks now. [Edit]: I've just seen the other post about the same kind of topic and I got my answers

Regarding the ease of tuning triple, I think nowadays it is quite easy with all the tools available. A wideband is definitely something you should invest some money in. You would detect a lot of issue and you would get to carb tune faster (you won't have to spend for 10 different jet size). It is a very valuable tool, my car went from being full a detonation to screaming with a lot of power. I would advise to take one with data recording capability to review quietly your records and act with confidence see an example of what you can get out it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93343&page=14 I never have to tweak them because there are out of tune, this is a myth as far as I'm concerned. Synch between carb is easy: you put the same jets on all of them, only idle has to be set, a fuel hose stuck to your ear to get same flow between all of them brought me real a nice tune Money could be an issue, tuning should not as long as you are willing to spend time to do it right!

I'll play as well. Funny thing is I'm in same boat as you are (but way ahead) I too have a Braap P79 head on its way. Still some little tricks to do and my F54/P79 setup will run (with triple though) Next goal is to tune everything. Next plan would be to review suspension: Sand blasting, powder coating, poly bushings, new ball joints would be next on my list.

I know it is not original but I would cover the dask with some nice leather. You can always get one very close to the finish of the original dash with black thread. I think it looks almost better than the original one. See some pictures coming from a HBZ Norway member (Arvid) who had a cracked dash: I guess if it starts to crack, we would have to find a good way to stop the cracking process (Some bad ideas: stamples, needle + threads, Glue, make the crack as big as possible to be as worse as it could get, etc...) I do also have an uncracked dash that starts to fade, black polish for shoes is a great idea, I never thought about it (so simple....)

Looks good. My mum has done those for me with real leather Now she has the feeling there's a part of her when I'm driving the car

Hopefully it would work as good as it looks!

I was not referring to $$$ because of your comments thank you btw for your comments. I'll definitely post some stuffs on youtube when it will be done. I've spent a lot of time reading, tuning the engine by myself (so I know the tunability limits). I also drove other Z with good / well build setups Paul has been the first one to ask what I had already and provided me a lot of advices about what to get. Cam, size of the port, valves size, etc... hae been done to match my needs / combo. I have to say, Paul has been awesome regarding communication and support It's in French but you can check pictures at the following link

Hi Jeff! The ITG is still in my garage but it has always been a pain to install/remove and to work around with it. Moreover each time, we (me & Glenn before) have to remove it, it was sliding along the brake master cylinders. the foam is no more in good shape. So I switch to 3 K&N filters. I haven't felt any difference by changing the filters and it is more practical. I think also it looks good.

I think we all forget about money when Nissan did the engine. Money is the first think people are looking at. Does it match customer expectations at that time? Was it good vs. competitors? yes/no? How much it cost to make it ok? where can we save something? I was designing suspensions some years ago, I was coming with super nice hollow aluminum parts, forged aluminum stuffs. Money was always the problem, most of those came in production in cast iron which is cheaper. Same goes for engine. Regarding my build, I've decided to go with custom head and I've chosen exactly the route Zedyone_kenobi has described. Sure, it is bad to have spend $xxxx for a head that is not going to give me 300ish crank hp but I should have a very fat torque curve to provide all the fun I need, I've chosen Paul since he knows what is doing and I'm sure I'll forget about the bill as soon as I will drive the car the first time. I drive my z on twisty French forest roads, I've tried to match the need. Regarding webers, there are 40 DCOE and I will see what I can get out of them (I might go with 45DCOE in the future with small chokes since webers could be quite cheap here in Europe). I have never driven my setup with SU, I'm not able to compare then. However, I know the sound they make, they are not so hard to tune as long as you have the right tools (wideband sensor). I don't look back! I've also heard good stuffs about SU & high hp. I don't know thou if there are so easy to tune over the entire rpm range.

Paul shaved the head a little to make it clean and flat but barely, not the usual 0.08" we can usually see. I don't even think he shimmed the cam towers.

I'm in process of changing the head of my L28 and I'm going to reduce the comp ratio that's currently too high. As of today, I do have a F54 / N42 head, flat tops and stage II MSA cam (Scheinder 274/274). I also have Triples Weber, 6-2 header, 2.5" exhaust and electronic ignition. I had to retard the timing a lot to avoid knock (28° instead of 34-36°). The comp ratio is around 10.3/10.5 which creates some bad burning condition with open chambers. As a results, the car is not so powerful (but feels & sounds nice) I recently got a port/polish P79 head from Braap on HBZ with bigger cam from Rebello. Even with the quench chambers, we've reduced the comp ratio to around 9.3/9.5. This should bring much more power than my high comp engine with low advance. Head is still in the box, but Braap garanteed me change would be dramatic If I'd chosen to keep my current combo, I would have had to get a much bigger cam to reduce dynamic comp ratio, this would make the engine less street friendly but it will keep it away from Knock.

I would advice to try also to spot any leak with a fuel/heater hose: one end at your ear and the other to spot the leak. It is very easy to spot any unusual air variation. Nice thread also, can't wait to hear how good the Z will run

It's funny I've done exactly the same thing like you did... Rinsed the tank so many time with water, soap, etc... and put a lighter inside to check if there was still gas inside :stupid: (the kind with long nose you use to lighten a fire) Luckily, nothing happens so I went with my torche to seal it with silver... Only difference is that I filled the tank completely until no air could still exist inside. My dumbest moment was when I coated the inside of my gas tank (after welding) with gas resitant paint floor. I found out when I went out of gas on the highway because of clogged gas filter and gas lines. Picture of the mess (this is a fourth of what I removed from the tank this day) Not my story but the one from my friend with his Porsche 911 : - He was usually pushing his car out of his garage with his foot on the bumper since his yard was having a slope. He had put a pile of sand to stop the car. - One day, he cleaned up the yard but he did not change his habit with his 911. - Sure enough, one day he pushed the car that started to roll over the slope with no more bump stop faster and faster, he then jumped into the car from the passenger side and pull the e-brake to stop it. - there was a tree on the way, the door caught it and bent the door, the hinge and the front fender. The paint was 3 weeks old when it happened...

I have shipped my car overseas as well (from MI to France) Shipping a car could be risky if you do not chose the right method. Customs could also be a pain, most of the company at arrivals will charge you for files fees. I've chosen the RO/RO method but since you leave the keys with your car, everybody on the boat can come in & out. As a result, the stereo was gone (with all wires cut), the head cover filter was gone also. I complained and I asked some money back since I have insurance but deductibles were $500 so expense was on me Overall my experience was not that bad but I've heard stories way worse than mine (doors missing, carbs missing, etc.)

Good I've been in a classic car show with mine this weekend. A lot of people start to look at Datsun.

I confirm Euro 240z has turn signal on top of the bumper, most likely for legislation issue. 240z spec in Europe are quite different than the us ones: - Bigger front stab bar, rear stab bar - 5 speed gearbox - R180 3.9

Nice pictures! Have you had some interest from the Frenchies with your Datsun? What was your feeling regarding it?

Hey Basil Another Z car in Europe! There's quite a few Z from Switzerland. Go check it out on Datsun-France, you'll find them. Some members don't speak French, this is not an issue (not even the admin... hopefully he's not reading this post ) Enjoy your time in France! Roads between Switzerland and Toulouse are awesome. One more tip, don't go to hotels, try to go to people house. Some offer rooms for very cheap. We call that "Chambres d'hote". I'm not in Paris this weekend (no Z for me then ) I'm in Nice, probably very close to where you'll be

Hi, You could also expand your search to the rest of Europe. There are some Z as well in France for instance. Regaridng the gearbox, some people in France have swapped their car from auto to manual. So some auto gearbox are available if required if the Z you're looking at is not AT.

Impact Wrench was the way to go for me either... You need to follow the specified procedure to put it back in... you'll need tools as well.