Oiluj

I'll add my name to the list recommending using MT90. Great lubricant for our drivetrains.

James, Don't have room in my garage at the moment, but if the weather clears, Perhaps we could look at it together. I'm off work till the new year. Give me a call if it works for you. Just a thought, have you asked Honza about this, I'm sure he's seen it before...

Mine sticks-out about 1.5" past the bumper bar. Used to have more fumes in the cabin before extending the exhaust tip past the bumper. Still have a small amount of exhaust smell with the window rolled down, but almost none with windows up. I'm thinking of moving the tip out an additional inch.

James, I just slid electral shrink-tube on the spring for about 1 coil to cushion the metal-to-metal contact between the spring & upper perch. No that I think back, I also applied a thin coating of silicone grease to the top of the rubber strut cap before installing the strut into the tower.

Watching "Back to the Future" (1st one). In the begining scenes where Marty is skateboarding behind cars, there ia s red 240Z (with louvers) on the street shown twice. Did a search of the archives but did not get any hits for "Back to the Future"

A Buick Skylark? Who would have guessed!

James, I had the exact same problem after I R&R'd the springs and struts. I tightened everything, no joy. I R&R'd the right rear suspension, (twice), no joy. I did the spray lubrication trick, no joy. Went back and added shrink-wrap over the springs where the contact the mounts and that seemed to solve the problem. Thing is, I don't really know if that was the root cause of the problem or if I just did something "a little different" upon re-assembly... Good luck and let me know if there's anything I can do to help. Julio

Oh yeah, and a T-Shirt with the following pharse on the front: "I do what the little voices inside my wife's head tell me to do".

We bought a nice eliptical trainer, and the bide got me two books on aircraft cockpits from the Wright Bros to the SST. Very interesting!

You mean I should be putting oil in my engine? So THAT'S what I've been doing wrong! *grin* Seriously, I've always had good experience using Catrol 10-30 in my current and past Z's. Probably better alternatives, but it's worked well for me with no unexpected engine wear issues. Caveats: Outside of the ocassional autocross, I don't race my cars and live in a moderate climate. No snow and it rarely tops 100 degrees F. YMMV...

First, I agree with pointing him to the search section, then invite questions after he's done some research. That approach has worked well for me. From what I've read, gas shocks will tend to push-up, providing less lowering than hydraulic shocks with the same springs. I installed the eibach springs with tokico blues on my 240Z. Back springs lowered the car about 3/4". The fronts did not lower at all. Turned-out I was sent the 280 front springs... I just used a dremel tool and carbide cutting wheels to trim the front springs one coil. Problem solved. No obvious negative effects on handling and the car rides fine. Over the small bumbs, much different ride quality than the stock springs. One caution: Going with the heavier MSA front sway bar did make the ride noticably harsher. She corners much flatter, so from the driver's seat, it was a good trade-off.

Very nice looking car. The bumpers look great. It's better looking than mine when I bought her!

5-Speed will be on next year's version. It's not installed yet.

Attached is the Capri wine label. My wife assembled it. She's much better with graphic programs than I am and it shows... It came out much better than the Z label.

Good info.

Nope, I'm not. But that's why this type of thing takes me so-oo long to do... Thanks!

Alan, I think Porsches to be well engineered vehicles and as a mechanical engineer have great respect for their design. However, I'm not counted amoung the cadre that "worship" them. Neither do I think that our classic Z's are more than what they are. The 914, 914-6, 912 & 911T were indeed "Porsche" vehicles that the early, less expensive Z did trounce within it's class for several years running. That's not Porsche bashing, it's history. Without any supporting data or documentation, whether this had an impact on Porsche's design or not is a matter of truely unqualified opinion. I think it probably did, you don't. I have no problem with that. If anything, your comments disasscoiating the 914-6 as a Porsche product sounds a little bit like 911 snobbery to me... However, as you pointed out, Porsche is often considered to be a "benchmark" sports car brand. That's why it was pointed out in the M&S article that the Z beat the Porsches. To be compared against a superior product is actually a compliment to the Porsche brand. My posts have obviously hit a raw nerve for you. Sorry about that. This simple difference of opinion has taken-up too much bandwidth already, so this is my last post on the subject.

Must be a hood damage virus going around. Called my buddy and he told me he "dinged" his freshly painted hood installing the rebuilt engine in his 70 Capri. The hood has to go back to the body & paint shop. Bummer!

Put together a few "Z" zinfindel wine labels to give as gifts to a couple gear head buddys. (The shift pattern is actually straight, though it looks crooked in the pic)., Did this before when I owned my 1960 MG: "MGA Merlot". It was actually a much cooler than the Z label, as it was octagon shaped to mimic the MG logo. Next is a Capri chardonney label for my buddy who's doing a cosmetic restoration of a 70 Capri.

FastWoman, I perceive you to be like Arne in that you take care of your cars. One thing I can say is that not all dealer mechanics are created equal. I've seen some real "certified" hacks over the years.

Congrats! I really like that color on the 370.

Very Creative! I'd switch-out the coat hanger wire for hard music wire. It's far less likely to fatigue.

Welcome to the club. Z's are great, fun cars. Look for as rust-free an chassis as you can find, unless you have sheetmetal/welding skills. Otherwise it can get pretty expensive. Good luch with the car!

Arne, One observation. You are a "car guy", do much of your own work and take very good care of your cars. I'd venture a guess that many Bimmer owners never look under the hood after they buy one, then expect Honda/Toyota reliability and just drive them till they break. That might explain the difference in your experience. Same could be said for many cars. British cars had a terrible reliability reputation in the US. I found my MGA to be very reliable, but understood that it required more maintenance than the average Toyota to achieve that level of reliability. Just my 2 cents.