TomoHawk

There are several vacuum hoses;  one to the brake booster, one to the heater controls, and one to the distributor.

Is there a photo of the altitude switch?  Searching only turns up wiring diagrams, and there wasn't one on eBum, but I think it has a cylindrical body...

4 hours ago, chaseincats said:

use a test light to see if it's getting power with the car running

So one terminal will have power, and the other goes to ground or the ECU?

On 11/27/2020 at 5:05 PM, chaseincats said:

If your bypass switch is working, you will notice the following with the car warmed up and any vacuum line unplugged:

If I did that, I'm pretty sure the engine would stall.  Would you please explain what "any vacuum line unplugged" means?

I keep forgetting, I have the Federal ECU... 

Oh well.  I  can just set the heater to 'floor' which means I get a vacuum leak from the brittle dashpot hose (heater guy just cuts & splices the hose instead of replacing it!) and that will throw the AFM off to cause a lean condition.  Or... I could add an electric valve to add air to the intake, post-AFM...

I suppose that is what the altitude detector does: it leans the mix.  it's a switch connected to a small bellows.

But I forget:  should you use your regular fuel, or change octane for higher elevations?

I was also thinking that you could substitute a switch to get extra MPG on the interstate.  Just don't forget to go back to the correct mix ratio for passing or city streets!

The 280Z Fuel Ijecion manual has a good troulehooting flowchart, and pecs.

We have been discussing this on the MeGuiar's detailing forum, with some success and we have really reduced the "bottle-count." 

The only large thing I'll be carrying is the vacuum cleaner and a water-squirter for washing off dirt from the lower areas.

the duct tape should work with vinyl seat covers, but mine are cloth, so I will have to think of something else.  Maybe I can add a sort of loop with some dog-rings, or just sew something on.

See you at Mid Ohio June 21-23

How id you keep it from slipping down behind the seat?

In my autocross 101 DVD the host mentioned using a chest strap to help your upper body stay fixed when going through the course, but there was no mention about how the chest strap is designed.  I assumed it was just a length of wide belting with a buckle or clip, or some wide Velcro with a D-ring.  You put it around the seat and across your chest, then tighten it.

Has anyone had one or have some information I can read?  The only thing I have trouble with is keeping the belt in place around the back of the seat, unless you install something up hold the trap up, like some D -rings.

Plus, without a steering wheel, it would be a bit difficult to "drive-it-like-you-stole-it."  I usually take out a certain part that disables the EFI as well.

I suppose I'll find out what the threads are when it comes off.  If it's 6mm, I have some nice stainless steel socket head screws.

Are you going to suggest I get a new lock cylinder and switch as well?  Some DeOxit should take care of the switch.

It still sounds like a big job for me, since I only get a couple hours a week for personal things, ao I might have to leave it as-it-is until next Fall.  But at least I know it can be done.  I just with the (person) who fixed it last added another inch to that wire!  That one inch is what caused the wire to break off inside.

I wonder what the threads on those screws are.  6mm? 

My key-in buzzer never seemed to work.  I thought I would look into it since I had the cover off.  One of the wires from the switch is fine, and I can connect it, but the other wire had a splice that just fell apart.  The wire that's left is too short to splice or even solder.  Can you get the entire lock with the key-in switch and wiring off without having to break the bolts off?  Do you even need those shear-bolts, or can you just  use normal bolts?

thxZ

I took a broken EP34 flasher apart, and inside is a solenoid-looking mechanism, and a small circuit board for control.  So it does make a clicking sound, like a solenoid.

Coolers are used to store food for eating and drinking.  You don't rub food or drink onto your car for a car show.  This topic is to discuss the minimum  number of things you need to prepare your car at a car show.

Before we start the summer cruising & car show season, I was wondering how to pack the stuff you'll need for a drive & car show.  I may want to get a different plastic tub or re-arrange what's in the car to properly store or carry all the needed things.  I probably have a good idea what I'll want or need, buy this is a discussion forum, so let's get discussting...   Oops- discussing. ?

The road Trip:

I'll Presume you have the mechanicals in good condition, with good or fresh brake pads, tyres, and any other consumables, like the oil and air filter, wiper blades, etc. 

I'd start the list with some spare parts, such as the V-belt for the water pump, and maybe 1 or 2 spare spark plugs.  Fuses are standard spares and are always in the tool bin, as well as are a spare radiator, fuel filler, and valve cover cap, booster cables, and an air pump.   Then you'll want a bottle of oil (as much a you'll need for the round-trip- DON'T presume you can just buy some!) and some extra brake fluid.

For the car show stuff:

• 12V Vacuum cleaner
• Unless you know for SURE there will be a car wash available, I'd suggest some waterless car wash, with a couple extra micro-fibre cloths
• Bottle of detailer (or spray wax?)
• Bottle of (ugh) tyre shine (even though tyres aren't supposed to be shiny)
• glass cleaner ( I use an empty hairspray pump bottle, well-rinsed)
• wheel cleaner (brake dust cleaner)
• lemon-scented furniture polish (for engine area)
• all-purpose cleaner (tar-remover)
• detailing brushes
• wheel/spoke  brush

My goal is to keep the number of items to a minimum, and prepare the car for show.  If you want snacks or personal items like hand wipes, that' your choice;  this list is only for car shows.

I found the connector.  It is on the firewall under the heater fan, next to the transmission tunnel.  there is also a Green connector in that area.  Please refer to the photo.  The ground wire from the low-beams goes through it to the dimmer switch, so it's important to clean the terminals with DeOxit.

  I think mine became corroded from some water entering through the holes where tabs on the ventilation air intake grille goes through the chassis below the windscreen. 

Make sure you have the plastic grille sockets glued in with a good sealant, so you don't get water coming in when driving in the rain.

My low beams don't work, and to follow the wires, you need to locate a connector C-2.  It's a black connector, similar to the ones on the firewall junction panel.  It's probably behind the radio, but I only looked near the fusebox & relays so far.  Maybe someone bumped it when fixing the heater core, since that's about when the low beams started acting up.  It's near the fuse links in this graphic.  It also goes to the kickdown switch and kickdown solenoid.

The High beams work fine.

Yes, I'll be using a Narrow-band Oxygen sensor.

The so-called wide-band sensors aren't compatible with Arduino electronics.

If you buy one and send it to me, I might consider using it. 

I'm not interested in buying electronic instrumentation from Haltech.

What are Wide Bands?  Painted bands?  Rubber bands?

Thanks, but that guy's data doesn't make sense, and he says it's not correct, especially for lambda=1. He gives 0.33V  for lambda=1.0 but it should be about .45V . Then says he used a wide-band controller to get measurements from a narrow-band sensor?   He also needs to change the way he explains the theory of the sensor, as he says the fuel "pulls oxygen through"  for both rich and lean conditions.

That's why I passed this page the first time I viewed it.