TomoHawk

On 7/3/2025 at 11:45 AM, Zed Head said:

Are you sure the horn switch isn't stuck? The control side needs to be grounded to actuate the relay. Seems like that would have to happen before it could get "stuck".

It's on the relay bracket.

There is the little brass arm that rubs the brass ring that is part of the button assembly, and it's not well attached, so it could have moved from a bump or just touched on something metal. I'd have to take the steering wheel off to look inside, and I hope it's still properly attached, because you can't really buy those at the AP store.

Even that will be fun, with the 90+ temperatures here lately,

I will justy disconnect the horns, so I can drive a bit. The horn fuse is also for the brake lamps, so It has to stay in, and I will just pull the wires off the horns.

Some of those relays near the fuse panel are easier to access with the glovebox out.

Higuys,

The horn suddenly went off at 6AM as if the relay welded itself, on a Sunday, so it's not moisture-related. I drove it the night before and it was warm (90) and dry.

Can you access the horn relay on a 1978 280Z without taking the glovebox out? Is it under the hood on the relay bracket? The FSM diagram isn't clear about it, but to say it looks like it's near the wiper relay, which means you gotta take the glovebox out.

I have a relay on order, so I just want to drive it s few times until I take it to the shop on July 14th.If I can get to it, I can swap it myself.

ThxZ

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Here's a lead. Maybe you can work something out?

Z Car Depot Inc

I requested information for an entire hose kit, so I don't have to butcher pieces to fit.

Higuys,

Is there an approved kit or a good source for silicone hoses the intake air (air filter and AFM only? The hoses for the vacuum and such on my engine are fine, but the hoses for the AFM and air filter are starting to show signs of small cracks or drying, so I'd like to start getting them now.

I'll save the extra hoses for later or sell them as I go, but keeping the engine going is most important.

I'd like muted colors, like grey or black, to keep the vintage look, so I don't are for red, blue, yellow, etc.

And I'd like the complete kit, inatead of buying individual hoses, which wouldtake all summer to finish.

ThxZ

Well, if you take the dizzy end of the HT lead off, you get to see a lot more sparking, so the module seems to be working. Now I need to see if the injectors are clicking.  Is there a way to see if they get a signal, like plugging in an LED?  When it's cranking, you won't hear the injectors.

So you absolutely can't use the stock coil?  I had the flamethrower coil on it for a while, until a few weeks ago, when it just stopped working for some reason- air gap was off maybe,  I don't think I want to bother with a bulky GM coil, since I have the stock bracket already in there.

You might be right, since I though the dizzy  drive got off a tooth, but can these 'import experts' adjust that? the nearest Nissan dealer is 20 miles, and there are few Datsun guys left, I'll bet.

Good thing the bumper shocks still work...

Higuys!

After all the years of faithful HEI operation, somebody bumped the front of the Zed, and after replacing the bumper, the engine runs like like the firing order was mixed up! SO I clean the plugs and confirmed the wires and firing order.  No difference
I replaced the HEI module, with no improvement, so I think the dizzy skipped a tooth on the drive shaft?  Maybe a freak shock fried the Flamethrower coil?
I'd just like to confirm somethings that seem sketchy in my docs:
H.E.I. Module is from a 1974 Camaro V-6

Stock coil?  It had a flamethrower before

ThxZ

Sorry,  but there is still n such thing as an air-to-fuel ratio sensor.

I found one.  It's on page BE-17.

Higuys,

Is there a chart or a graphic of the connectors nears near the firewall (blue, white and black) that show the connector names?   I need to know which is connector "C-4" which has the wires for the headlamps, so I can clean the pins and improve the leadlights.  I looked in the Body Electrical section in the FSM and it only refers to C-4, and even tells you where the specific pin is for power & ground connections, but doesn't tell you where to find the connector itself.

While I'm looking at them, I will mark them with a black marker.

Thx

As usual, I will have to fix things myself.

Is it possible to get the front side clearance lamp to flash with the turn signals?  Since the Zed doesn't have wrap-around front lamps, like new cars have, there are places where on-coming cars can't see the flashing, when you are turning.

IMO, you could make the clearance lamp a dedicated flasher, or add a circuit board that flashes it when the front indicators are flashing, but otherwise on steady.

On 10/22/2012 at 4:21 PM, Stevie P said:

Hey Jim

Not into grill area, inner fender, parallel to outside fender, if you were to take out the fender turn repeater, looked straight into the hole, you would see the grommet I mean, it's sort of funnel shaped, with the spout turning downward.

Make sense?

Steve

Those are robber strain relief-sleeves that are supposed to keep the wires from being cut and the water out of the frame rails, but as all the rubber parts exposed to the elements, they dry out  and fall apart.

On 10/22/2012 at 4:55 PM, jfa.series1 said:

Steve,

I see you are driving a 280Z. No such beastie on my 240, must be a design change/improvement for your later model car, possibly due to bumper revisions.

Jim

On 10/23/2012 at 10:51 AM, zKars said:

I know the ones you mean. The north American later 280's that I've seen have the side marker lights (turn repeaters to you!)

 

There are only clearance lamps on the fenders, not turn repeaters, unless you re-wire or add something to make them flash with the turn signal lamps.  Lets us know if you have a working solution.

Thast's not an issue.  It's a problem. There is a difference. Please learn to use correct English, not liberal  jargon.

I had time and the need to make one, so I did. I cut the entire front seat belt from a modern front-wheel-drive car at the pull-it-yourself JY, and used heavy-duty Velcro from the sewing store.  It worked well on a track with many tight  turns.  You get 6 feet of belt for the front seat!??

Just be careful not to cut off your breathing or immobilize your arms.  Being in safe control is more important than strapping yourself to a seat.

Autocross Chest Strap.pdf

mine makes a whizzing noise with the starter disabled.

It should only have 12V after about 10 seconds, if the thermotime switch is working correctly.  Otherwise, it should have 0 volts when you first turn on the power.  In any case, test it under a load.

Have you downloaded the Fuel Injection Bible, and flowwed the troubleshooting charts?

2 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

There is a little black box on the throttle axle marked with:A22-602-421 , it's a switch.. it tells the "ecu" if the throttle is opened or not..

You didn't define what you were intending to do with throttle position. But you are essentially correct; it tells the ECU if the the throttle valve is fully closed or fully open.

There is one there already.  It's in your foot! 😉

 The L-Jetronic EFI system doesn't need one, unless you are trying to re-engineer things.

Thanks man

What I did was to go to my AP store (Autozone) and get a Wells DR100 Ignition Module. It's a Duralast product.

I lost the box that my GM HEI module was in, and I forgot to make a record of what I had.  My docs say to use a Wells model #DR100 4-pin GM HEI module.  Would someone please give some examples of which vehicles had the generic DR100 module?  Those kids in the AP stores only know "Make, Model, and Year" to put into a computer.  You can't even get a quart of 15W-30 oil for a lawn mower...

ThxZ