TomoHawk

Here's a shot of the two green fusible links (for the EFI system?) with the two white plastic connectors that snap onto the relay bracket. I haven't yet followed the one red wire on the left connector that goes underneath the relay box. The two white wires on the right connector go to the battery (+) side. It would be good to know if those parts are correct for a 1978 280Z. Maybe it can be swapped out for the correct ones, rewire it correctly, or just snip off the extra stuff somehow. thxZ

I think you will see a number of signed items from Mr K. for sale at the ZCCA convention next fall. thxZ

I have a Haynes book, but I use that along with the FSM, and other resources you find on the Internet, like AtlanticZ.ca. The Hayne's books and such give the basic stuff for your series of car, and the FSM gives the more specific information for your model. the internet resources will give you alternatives to the tech books, and that's where you'll find the real 'shade-tree' stuff. I copy & paste all the stuff I read from Internet website, or car discussion forums into a notes database. I'm using Jot Notes. You can even paste pictures into it, but probably isn't for those people who prefer paper copy & notebooks. thxZ

None of the manuals show you where it's mounted- only a diagram of the fuel system. All the crud and undercoating make it hard to tell what is what. There was no mention of removing the one wheel to get at the one end either, so thanks at least for that bit.

Do you have a picture of the fuel pump mounted to the car?

Reading about the beading tools on the Eastwood company website tells me that those kinds of tools are used by radiator shops. So, Instead of spending hundreds of bux for a tool I'll only use twice, I went to the radiator shop and they rolled the two ends free (they service my cars.) It's a LOT better than using a double-flare tool, like I've been told. thxZ

My car has 2 green fusible links by the battery going to the EFI system, is that correct? The specs on a green fusible link is 40A ( or 50A, depending on the source) but I don't really think you'd need all that current (80 or 100A) to run 6 injectors, and the FSM only shows one fusible link. The plastic holders by the battery have the two green fusible links in them, and they neatly snap into holders on the relay bracket too, so it "looks" like it's correct. Or did the PO patch this in in from another car an attempt to make things work? I can get a photo, if you want one. thxZ

Can you access the dtrainer without removing the gas tank? The pictures in the books are confusing. thxZ

I need to replace a couple hard lines on the high-pressure side of my fuel injection system, and I need to know how to put a bead on the end of the tube, so the rubber hose doesn't leak or slip off. I have a double-flare tool, but all that does is smash the end of the tube and theteeth scar up the sides. Is there a better way? Can some fix-it shops make the beads? thxZ

No test needed in Ohio after 25 years! Mine passes anyway.

The video came out just fine. It shows you can do good things with cheap equipment (Like a Z!):laugh: Next time, maybe you could script something a little more exiting, and have some friends do a little acting, Like a little 'movie?' There's a road like yours I can see from my window, and cars go by all day long. BTW- What camera did you get? thxZ

We need more S30 stuff!

If replacing the injectors makes things 'less rich, then it sounds like the injectors were stuck open (because of some crud on the needle?) and you chose a $400 cure instead of an $80 cleaning job. Nillyjarrell- 280Zs didn't have a mass air meter. It's called an Air Flow Meter (AFM.) Wasn't the Mass Air Meter invented around 1995?

Usually you can start by checking the connections for clean conductors, then check the sensors themselves, then it must be something else.

He is asking about the vacuum lines in general; post- a/c removal. There are three that go to emmissions devices; the EGR, carbon canister, and the BCDD. There is one line for the fuel pressure regulator, one for the distributor, one for the transmission, and one for the ventilation system. The latter three are fairly important for the proper functioning of the engine & transmission (except the heater line.)

The vacuum system controls the spark timing advance through the distributor, and it is needed to make the air control doors for your heater system move. If you just pull the hoses off, you will lose vacuum from the intake system, and the engine will not run as efficiently as it could You would find good information about the vacuum system for the ventilation system and for the engine in the factory service books..

Any trip anywhere in a show car can have its small incidental problems, especially long-distance ones. For me, it's it the show with that "Why did the judge deduct for?" question, or "the judge was totally wrong!" problem. The ZCCA judging form only has a spot to put the number of points deducted, but there's no place for the judge to justify WHY, like why did they deduct 5 pts. for interior? That's a really big area, and you would only have to guess. You could even have had a professional guy fix up the interior, and get the 5 points off? For what, dirty carpet, radio knobs not all aligned, or loose threads on the shifter? ith the The other thing has to do with bonifide mistaked by the judge ( or an unqualified one.) At the first Z-car show ever I ewrnt to, I got deducted because my "glovebox light didn't work?" It worked perfectly fine! As long as you turn on the running light, like the owner's manual says. As usual, once the judge is done, you can't protest a bonifide mistake by him. Obviously, every owner there would if it was allowed, but there ought to be a formal procedure for it. If enough protests were put up against a judge, then maybe that person shouldn't be judging or should get better educated? JMO- thxZ

A "Tour" sounds like you're walking around inside an office building or museum or something. If it's a low-speed cruise, why don't you just say so?

In the email invitation I got a while ago, it mentions "Check in and GRID at track 11:00- ish" which makes it sound like a competition or hot-lapping event. If it's just a tour of the track facilities, why not just say "Meet at the track at 11?"

People just want to belong someplace, so they use the association of Infinity with Nissan and to Z cars as an excuse to get in. the rest of it is money, and being able to brag about how many cars were there (although only a few were DATSUN Z cars.)

Don't forget that sand-blasting can pit the metal or even weaken it by deforming the sirface ( when blasting a spot for too long.) Using a softer media like baking soda, glass/plastic beads, or even walnut shells is supposed to avoid the pitting & weakening.

What about the oem-style screws with the phillips-hex heads and zinc plating? thxZ

Steve, Your picture in #37 needs a change. The V+ from the battery first goes through a fuse link, then through the combo switch to the fusebox, then to the lamps. The two ground legs go to the combo switch again (the other part of the combo switch) to control which beam is on. That's why the combo switch can be such a pain. thxZ

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

The Akron sports car club has been using that place for their events for over a year now, so I think it should be fine for us. Why would you be interested in the dimensions? A siutable course may already be laid out. thxZ