TomoHawk

That looks like the VeloRossa spyder, with the flip-front. Or a customized late-model Corvette? For the engine, I think a small displacement (2.6 Litre? ) V-8 with downdraft carburettors (such as an old formula 2) would be better than a common engine. I actually had a dream once where I met an old guy from Italy, who worked for a defunct post-war automaker who was able to build for me a 2.8 Litre V-12!

Thanks for the suggestion of the electronic flasher. First of all, the AP websites all tell me that the (Tridon 35) flasher isn't compatible with my car. (just kidding but after reading the last part of "Sold on LEDs" I think I will keep using the incandescent bulbs- no offense... I just don't think I want to rewire the car just to try some different bulbs. BTW- I was interested in usng the LEDs only on the turn signals because of the way the light "snaps" on&off, thinking it might add little safety when driving. I will limit my use of LEDs in the car to the high-mount brake lamp, or the flashlight I keep in the tool bin.

The design of the base and contact points isn't good either. I put in an 1157 for the brake lamp, and the light was on intermittently. I could jiggle the bulb to get it on, then after you lock it to the fixture, it goes out. the tiny little contacts just don't work right. BTW- the first attempt with the rear turn signals used the SMD type bulbs, and the second with the front turn signals used the traditional LED bulbs. Also, when I tried the latter in the rear brake lamp, it created a 'hot spot' on the lens both with the brake off and even brighter with the brake on. Maybe the SMD-equipped lamps would be more like incandescent bulbs. IMO, To use LEdDs in the tail lamps and any other lamp on the exterior body would involve re-engineering the lamp with an array of LEDs, like Dave (Zs-ondebrain) has done. That is, until you can buy an LED panel that fills the lens with light.

I got a pair of 1156 LED bulbs (they were on sale) to try in the back for the turn signals, and the only thing they do is turn on, with no flashing. Does anyone sell some LED bulbs that will work properly? a set of 1157 LED bulbs would then be installed in the fronts. thxZ

When did Ferrari start using Chevrolet engines in the 250s? For the price the seller wants, I'd expect some more appropriate to a 250 Ferrari than a Chevrolet engine.

Speaking of interior lamps- I've had my last two dome lamp bulbs fail because the filament de-soldered itself on one end. Is that normal? It's a new lamp, and when I replaced the bulb each time, all the metal parts still looked shiny-new! It must be creating a high resistance when the filament gets old and melts the end off.

DeOxit seemed to work wonders on my car. I went through all the connectors behind the glove box, and the whole electrical system just got happier- the lights were brighter, the engine was smoother, etc. I had a peculiar problem with one turn signal lately though. the bulb's contact point is rounded, and the socket's contact pad is sort of flat, and after hitting so many bumps, the turn signal would stop- or the two contact points would miss. So I just sanded the contact on the bulb to make it slightly flattened, and I had no problems since. This probably isn't related, but the point is that the contact pads in the sockets can move around or 'grow' with corrosion, so it's possible that the vibrations from the engine could be causing a short to develop. Could you try the procedure you mentioned with the rear lamp harness disconnected?

How come mine never sounds like that? Are you using a special resonator?

Higuys, Has anyone seen or tried the white and amber switchback bulbs on any vehicle? Could the bulb be used on the S30, and would it work without modifications? I think it would work on my modern car, with the clear turn indicators, but the 280Z has amber covers on the front indicators, and red lenses on the rear indicators.

OK, how about starting small then... with a puppy.

All of the above.

I don't think I want to wait for the ignition box to fail in the middle of no-where to change it out. The hellfire system might be a nice upgrade to the "NLA" control unit.

After I get the HEI stuff working, I'd like a Hellfire (I think?) But in the meantime, can your 3-D printer build me a brunette, say 5-9, with blue eyes?

I was able to hear the files, but I had to save them (using the download control at the top) to the hard drive first. It sounds good. I would like mine to sound that way. It sounds more like an outboard engine.

Just don't video your tailpipe, please! Why do people make videos of the tailpipe?

I remember Wavemux now... Remind me to add a spark plug gapping gauge to my tool roll. BTW- are those cheapie ROUND gap tools accurate? The ones with the increasing thickness...

It would have to say DATSUN on it, bro, or better yet, Ferrari.

Mine usually has some pressure, especially on warm days. You could only get vacuum if the fuel return line was blocked and the fuel pump sucked out a lot of fuel.

Stay away from ABS plastic. it gets brittle from heat and age, and will quickly crumble off. What you probably want is some kind of HDPE or a rubber-like material, that will hast a long time. Don't forget to apply a good rust-preventing paint, like a bedliner coating to the rear wheel well, since there isn't an inner inner there like the front wheels have.

He doesn't look that old in that photo.

He did good. That is, until Nissan took the project away from him and bloated it with turbos and V6 engines, and now all-wheel-drive.

It seems ironic that people drive sportscars to a coffee house, which is usually just off the freeway. get wired up on caffeine, then get back in the sportscars?

After a brief Internet search, I haven't found an obvious example of period-correct pedal covers. May I ask or some help?

I'm considering moving my driving lamps from the provided holes to ones drilled slightly closer to the ends. The provided holes for the driving lamps are right behind the bumper over-riders, and the rubber projects down and blocks the upper half of the lamp and light. Good idea?

I"m not in favor of putting blingy things on the pedals. Plus, I'd usually say that pedals are don't do anything for "performance" but the things do wear out eventually, so you could put on something that would decrease the wear or weat less. What I'd ask you guys is can you get ones that are more period-correct? Like putting the footy gas pedal on a dune buggy.. As for driving with boots on, I've tried it on rare occasions, and I have found that, at least on my DD car, the gas pedal is much too close to the brake pedal, so it's dangerous to drive like that. The last time I had boots in my car in the winter, I kept them in the boot (ha ha) and drove with the street shoes, then changed into the boots at the destination.