TomoHawk

Minilites were like the name says, first seen on the Cooper minis. http://www.minilitewheels.com/ Being light and strong, the Mustangs and Camaros started using them on road courses, and they became associated with racing and speedy stuff since.

I was at the 2009 Mid Ohio Vintage Grand Prix this year and I got to see a couple S30s on qualifying day. It looks like one didn't make it to race day, but the other, a 1970 Datsun 240Z (2.8L) took 4th (SVRA Group 8 ) thxZ

Too bad you can't whiten the reservoir too, to make it just as new as the pump.

I think Sarah has a 78, which has an internal regulator, so she won't need to get the VR too.

I'd like to retrofit something to my car. It doesn't seem to have a screen trap-door or something in the filler neck to prevent debris or a siphoning tube from going down in there and not having a chained cap would be better than putting the current one in your pocket so you don't lose it. One time I even grabbed a diesel fuel pump handle and almost stuck it in there. Fortunately, the diesel nozzle was black with gunk and I noticed that. You can stick just about any nozzle in there, so the capless one would only allow the unleaded nozzle to fit. On the cars I looked at so far, the thing was at such an angle that water would not collect there or go down the neck. My current car has more of a chance at getting water down the filler neck. Or snow, or leaves, etc., so every time I wash the car, I wash out the filler area, and it drains completely. thxZ

What options do you have if you need the rubber mount too? thxZ

The PO (a Z car restoration specialist) screwed on an aftermarket pump to my washer resevoir. I don't have the rubber.

Has anyone seen the new filer caps on the newer cars? I know the Ford Fusion (Hybid) has it. It's a fuel filler neck without the screw-off cap. It just has a hole for the gas filler tube to be inserted, and it has a pressure seal on it. It has my interest because if you had one on your S30, you would not need a gas cap at all; You just open the filler door and push the nozzle in the hole. For more information: http://cars.about.com/od/ford/ig/2010-Ford-Fusion-Hybrid-pics/2010-Fusion-Hybrid-capless.htm U=Youtube video: thxZ

That is obvious, but such a document would not be an official one or sanctioned by anyone. It could only be a bunch of general rules or tips or ghuidelines, and one would need to verify everything and write in all the notes they can get. It would probably be a good place to start.

If a car was totally in primer, then it has no paint, and should therefore get no deduction on that item. I have seen a few cars that actually looked OK in grey or black primer. Julio- I always get beat out by the customs and over-restored cars at shows. Mine is stock and driven. People are always saying stuff like "that's a really cool car" but they won't actually cast a vote for it... When you get to hang out with Z car people you're more at home than when you get those kind of megabuck car owners. Maybe next time you could park next to some rat-rods? thxZ This is what I think of trailers:

Out of all this I see a very comprehensive book or document on preparing your S30 (for example) to be very-low-deduction car. There are books on doing show cars, but you'd think they are fairly general and aren't very specific to our needs, so you end up guessing at what the judges would look for (as usual.) thxZ

If the comment secion doesn't count, why are they still on the scoring pages? The comments are for just that purpose, but I've never gotten any, and comments are written after any deductions are made, so they don't affect the score. they are probably for a suggestion or two to help the owner do better the next time. gnose- There are some non-specific areas for "bulk" items. For example, on the engine sheet there are items like hoses, brake lines, paint finish and electrical. Those are all not very specific and broad-ranging items. The same thing occurs on the interior and exterior score sheets.

You can't be focused too much, or you'll miss out on the categories that are judged in bulk, like the interior, engine area and paint. It is good enough though, to be used as an initial checklist, and the items on the list are things that are most likely to be missed when preparing the car or things that normally wear.

The scoring system is the only big thing that has trouble. Some judges write 3, as in 3 points out of 10, which really means 7 points deduction. Some write -3... These are usually judges that aren't really experienced. Another thing is the DD class. I don't have the luggage straps in, so I get points off? The same with aftermarket stereo. Some inexperienced judges score DD class like it was the stock class. That shouldn't be so, but by the time you get your judging sheet back it's too late. It's not polite to tell a judge he's wrong, either. Shows should be pleasant places. Hopefuly more people will read the guide and then everyone will be consistant. Chris- I haven't noticed much of a difference so far, but I'll get to read it more thoroghly over the weekend (it's raining in Ohio.) thxZ

Ok... The camera mount works well ( it has 3-axes of adjustment), and the software works (on the laptop, on the battery.) I got a 12V power inverter to plug the power supply into to power the laptop, because a DC power adapter for a laptop is very expensive. The next thing to solve is where to put the inverter and how to hook it up to the car's power. I think I might run a wire dirrect to the auxiliary power jack in the center console, and no idea what to do with the inverter? thxZ

Is there a proper way to wrap the wiring on aZ, so it will stay on, look nice and not unravel after a year? It seems that no matter how your wrap it, it still looks kinda crude, but the platic split loom stuff seems out of place on a classic car. I have just been re-wrapping the unravelled stuff, and applying a little E-6000 (or sho-Goo) to keep the ends attached. thxZ

Maybe you need another one for the lady? I'm sure everyone would appreciate pictures, how-tos (your notes) and any other suff you learned while rebuilding. thxZ

I thought a Yankee was an early automatic screwdriver. recipe...

I finished the mount. I don't think there is anything I can do to it to make it better. Does anyone have a favorite App to record time-lapse videos in WMV format? AVI files are HUGE! I'm using Flix right now. HandyAVI is OK, but doesn't make a video as you go. WinTLV makes AVI videos. A 10 minute recording (1s interval) makes a 150 Mb video! thxZ Below: suction cup clamp open & closed

Can't see it very well. Got another photo?

I once found an internet place that made vinyl liners for those storage areas. I just use them for jumper cables, air pump, can of brake fluid, etc. so I don't need liners. Hinging the front of the deck was also nice so you can get into those storage areas.

My rear insulators must be used up. The back of my 280Z seems to be at least an inch low. I'll get some new ones over the winter, and probably a set of springs (and shocks for the backs.) thething is making creaking noises now when you accelerate! (when the back sinks down from the weight transfer.) Elliot- If you want to save a fair amount of money, get the entire bushing kit. It's not cheap, but you will save a great deal compared to buying them all individually. thxZ

IIRC, the retro stereos are basically a receiver and a CD controller. the CD layer goes under the seat or in the trunk, and all you see is the display. they now have a USB port on a 19 inch wire. http://www.retrosoundusa.com/products/category/id/1

Here is my version of the camera mount using the suction cup mentioned earlier. It can be attached to either the windscreen or the side window. I will probably replace the wood post with an adjustable square post, and maybe a few other small improvements.

Do you have a URL for Gold Book? thxZ