MEZZZ

Arne, Dave can make a relay kit for the 280, I wrote and asked him about it while awaiting delivery of my car. Please see his email response: I can make one for your car but it does cost more than the 240Z harness. the harness is $150 and would have to be hard wired into your system, if you don't have a spare set of headlight plugs to supply me with. The plugs in question are pictured below this mesage. They are the white, round 3 wire plugs located to the right and left of the front pulleys, on each fender. I charge $150 because it isn't your basic harness, it takes measurements from you and more wire than the 240Z harness. I have an extra set of 280Z plugs but they are $7 each for a total of $21 added to the $150. The harness will be completely plug and play, fused and the relays are easily replacable with relays from your local Auto Parts Store. Shipping is included in the harness's price. If you are still interested in the harness, I will need these measurements from you..... 1) measure from the battery's positive post down to the frame, and over to the area that you want the dual relay pack to be mounted ( mounting hole wil need to be at least 6" above the frame) 2) measure from the relay packs location to the right headlight plug (following the stock wiring so you can use the OEM wire clamps and holders) 3) measure from the right headlight plug, following the stock wiring, to the left headlight plug. remember to add slack to your measurements. (all these measurements are in or near the engine compartment, not the headlights themselves.) 4) each headlight plug will have a new ground wire pertruding from it and will need to be ground to the frame using a stock or pre-existing screw or bolt. SO measure from the plugs to the nearest mounting hole for each of the two ground wires. I've added a picture of the 240Z headlight uprade harness so you can see what I mean in terms of grounds and relay pack mounting. I've also included a diagram that explains the wiring in a 240Z with plugs but also somewhat pertains to the 280Z in terms of wire colors. I only take Money Orders made out to David W. Irwin and you can send your order and payment to me at.....

And my sense of humor enjoyed that one

Didnt mean to drag this thread down into the gutter... My sense of humor gets me in trouble sometimes

Thanks Walter, I didnt think it would be enough juice to make it turn. Best I could do was a slight hum I will attempt to run some other type of power over to it.. I'll look again for an inline fuse as well. thanks!

Great advice on searching for the Z DeesZ. I was a recent victim myself of buying a car sight unseen. I looked locally for months and finally turned to Ebay. After looking around for a couple months, I finally came across a '77 that looked good at a glance. The ad was not all that descriptive so I emialed the P.O. back and forth a few times ascking specific questions and was satisfied with the responses I received. Made the resrve price bid and figured if someone bid over me, it wasnt meant to be. $4000 was the reserve, I won the auction, paid another $777 to DAS to ship across country, got the car...AND...you guessed it...a MAJOR disappointment! Was told the car was rust free...I always take that with a grain of salt anyway...upon closer inspection, inside rear hatch was rotted, a very small hole inner passenger fender. Was told no evidence of bondo, very obvious bondo work (looks like a wad of gum about 3 inches long) in pass. fender. Was told you can tell they didnt use a piant of "high quality", in reality, it was a home job, overspray EVERYWHERE, inside the car, the entire engine compartment, every hose and wire, all weatherstripping, even the windshield and wipers, solid in spots! The radio didnt work, blower motor. Was told everything but the clock worked. And to top it all off, I won the auction on Aug 17th, sent P.O. (P.O.S.) check on 8-18, today is 10-23 and I STILL dont have a title! Said he would send FedEx, now claims he "mailed the tiltle" on 9-07 and it must have gotten lost. I filed fraud claim on ebay, they investigated, called me and tld me P.O. is filing for a replacement title. I follow up 2 weeks ago with the investigator and find out he JUST Applied to have the title transferred into his name on 10-3! Seems he bought the car 4 weeks prior on Ebay for a "Buy it Now" price of $1750! The classic flip scam! Didnt do so much as do an oil change on it as the filter had paint overspray just like the rest of the motor! Ebay wont do anything, the seller is an idiot that stopped answering my emails. My next step is to petition the BMV in my state with my cancelled check an Ebay ad and see if I can get a title that way. Make a long story short, BE CAREFUL doing what I did! I bought 2 other cars and a Harley on Ebay with great results..this was a disaster! To top it all off, I climbed under the car tonight, I have been so disgusted with the whole thing, I havent done much to it in the 6 weeks I have had it..I want to take the rear bumper off..had a light under the car, looked forward and saw a small area of undercoating off the pass. frame rail...looked closer, you guessed it, RUST!! About an inch long hole that I am sure would open up bigger if I pushed it. Take it from me...be careful! I saw that car on Ebay in Indiana, the '78 with a claimed 30K on it...sounded great for the price and the pics looked nice. It is about a 3 hour drive from me, I was tempted to go look at it but my wife shunned the idea after what happened. I guess I have no recourse but to slowly fix the problems and have more $$ in it than I planned.

I have done alot of searching and could use some help on my car. I cannot get the blower to come on. I've read alot of post about 240's but cant find anything on later models. I pulled off the access panel in the passenger footwell to expose the blower motor and removed the center console as well because I am replacing the stereo. I see a white and blue connector going to the motor of the blower. I was thinking a good place to start is to hook some current up to it and see if I can get it to spin. I have a 12v converter I bought over the weekend to test the clock and it is a 500mA, dont know if thats enough to do anything. WHen I connect it, the motor hums but doesnt spin. Can I take a couple leads directly off the battery? I am obviously a novice to all of this and would appreciate any help you guys can shed. I looked for an inline fuse but didnt see one. I did find the inline fuse for the non working stereo, an old cassette deck and it was blown. I'll take my time installing the new just to make sure everything is grounded properly. I did trace the power line going to the radio all the way over to where the P.O. spliced in above the fuse box. I found the same color blue wire as the blower hanging right next to the splice for the radio. I figured if I start with the motor to make sure it is spinning and work backwards, thats a good place to start. Thanks

Darbji is going braless! Sorry for my sophomoric sense of humor

Bulldog, great color choice! Car looks fantastic. I have been kicking around colors ever since I got mine and decided on a metallic gray as well. I saw a M3 a couple weeks ago and thought, THERE is my color! I wonder now if that is what you used 'cause it looks great!

, I totally agree, I used to ride a Harley and before that I had a Jeep Wrangler for fun and both those marques have their enthusiasts, you are automatically blacklisted if you screw over fellow "member. Thats allright, go over to chit chat open forum and see the latest ebay ad I posted (cant help it, I am additcted to the place ) Better yet, heres the link... I am gonna relist mine for a bunch after seeing this one! Maybe the guy didnt screw me over at all! Maybe it was indeed a bargain and he had insiders knowledge to the skyrocketing values of the Beloved Z! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-datsun-260-z-show-room-new-19-000-miles-240z-280z_W0QQitemZ290171677073QQihZ019QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Where does the line start to get in on this Z? Original 19,000 miles! Sweet ride to be sure, but what kind of drugs is this guy on? $46,500?? If thats true, the values of ours just skyrocketed and I am gonna list mine for a buy it now of only $19,999! True, this is a low mileage car and it looks to be in fantastic shape. If you never drove it, it would stay that way but the value would drop emmensley with every mile you put on it. What do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-datsun-260-z-show-room-new-19-000-miles-240z-280z_W0QQitemZ290171677073QQihZ019QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I agree, I WAS/AM still sick to my stomach over it...but no use crying about it, I'm a big boy and I just need to move forward. I am determined not to let this distract from the pleasure of the car. I am basically doing little things now, like major cleaning of the engine compartment, tonight I got in there with an extra find sanding sponge and shined up alot of the metal that I used Simple Green on over the weekend. The car actually has some shiny stuff for the first time in many, many years! You are In oregon, why dont you do me a favor and stage a Z rally at this idiots house as a show of support. Sad thing is, this guy claims to have a Z setup for SCCA racing and a '77 Zzzap? (the yellow one) he is restoring. If thats true (who knows what to believe this joker told me now), how can a fellow Z enthusiast do something like this? Anyway, I appreciate the support, time to get on with it and get this baby looking good again.

Had I only found this site beforehand, I would have looked into a member checking it out. It seems there are quite a few members on here from the Oregon area..this joker lives in Salem, Oregon. There are professional services out there that will inspect the car, but the prices they charge are outrageous, especially if you dont get what you want on the first time around, it could get rather expensive to keep calling a service. I did get all the paint off the entire engine compartment, took hours with "Goof Off". Not sure of the long term effects of any on wiring and hoses, I tested it on a few and it didnt seem to soften anything. I also got out the Simple Green and some brushes and went to town on everything else and it came pretty clean for the first time around. Just alot of elbow grease

Thanks man...that makes me feel so much better : ) Just kidding, at this point, what do I do but wait it out, fix it up and enjoy it. I'll have more $$ in it than I planned but at this point, its either keep it and start working on it, or dump it instead of throwing good $ after bad. Hopefully, things go better from this point on and I'll end up with a nice ride when it is all said and done. Thanks for thr kind words.

Thanks for the reply. I dont think it is a Cali car, I didnt see the floor temp warning light. I will look into some sort of shield. I appreciate the response, I have read many of your posts on here using searches and you are a wealth of knowledge!

It is a LONG story, but here goes. I had been looking locally for months, obviosly went to ebay. Saw a car listed, original, unrestored '77 280Z in Oregon, (i'm in Ohio). Claimed it needed new seats or recovered and with a paint job it would be a show car. No rust, runs great, blah, blah, blah. After a series of emails, in which I asked VERY specific questions and got VERY specific replies, I hit his reserve of $4K, no one else bis and I got the car. Seller writes, congrats, you are getting a GREAT Z, I am sure you will be happy. Gives me 48 hours to get cashiers check to him which I do and said he would FedEX the title once checked cleared. Sent payment 8-18, seller recieved 8-20. Calls 8-20 claiming bank would not release $$ until check was cleared. I call my bank, they verify. 8 days go by, call seller, oops, check cleared day before. Seller stated, I will overnite title to you and try to get the car to the shipper tomorrow, if not, it will be early next week. I call 9 DAYS later, seller calls on the 10th day, says he just dropped car at shipper and I will put the title in the mail and send Priority with delivery confirmation, etc. A week goes by, car arrives, still no title. Call and leave a voicemail, nothing! Go pick up the car, the thing isnt CLOSE to the condition described. Claimed NO RUST...rust hole in inner passenger side fender behind headlight bucket, the entire inside of hatch lip is RUSTED THROUGH. Claimed no bondo, bondo clearly eveident in top of pass. fender, looked like bubble gum in it! Claimed everything works but the clock. Tach screwy, oil pressure gauge too, radio, e-brake, blower motor, all dead! Claimed in email, car looks great from 10-15 feet but you can tell when you get up in it, they didnt use the best quality paint. No big deal, I would repaint it. He claimed the original owner he bought it from had a "not of high quality" paint job. I get the car, overspray was on ALL weatherstripping, on the windshield wipers, the WINDSHIELD ITSELF, not just overspray, but solid silver! It was inside the car, the whole console had silver overspray. I open up the hood, THE ENTIRE ENGINE COMPARTMENT was splattered! The idiot painted RIGHT THROUGH THE VENTS! Every hose, wire, everything! Needless to say I am FUMING AT THIS POINT. I sit down write the guy a not so nice email, a week goes by, no reply to more emails or voicemails. I finally post a fraud claim on Ebay, claiming I never received the title. Here is where the story GETS WORSE! The investigator calls me, claims I will get paid ONLY if the seller doesnt send title/and OHIO wont issue me one. They call the guy, he claims he MAILED the title PARCEL POST on 9-07, 10 days AFTER my check cleared. It was to be to me no later than 9-14 according to the Post Office. Must have gotten LOST IN THE MAIL! Now investigator claims he has to go to Oregon BMV and get a replacement issued, taking 4-6 weeks! I fire off another email, accusing this seller of FRAUD, etc...asking why the title wasnt sent FedEx as stated in numerous emails. Also, tell him of the MANY discrepancies in car, emailing photos. Telling guy its been 5 weeks since he had my $$ and I cant do anything to the car, work on it, drive it, insure it. I ask for some type of settlement, claiming the car isnt worth more than $2000. I tell him I want $1000 back for the LIES he had written about the cars true condition. He finally contacts me telling me I am an EXORTIONIST and BLACKMAILER, the car is WORTH EVERY PENNY of his reserve price. The ebay investigation continues, they call me last week, tell me they discovered this guy just bought the car on Ebay 4 weeks before listing it, using a BUY IT NOW for $1750! AND....according to the Oregon BMV, he only applied to have the title transferred into his name on OCTOBER 3RD! He listed the car on AUGUST 10! To end this long story, basically Ebay has given him time to get the title and as long as I get it in the NEXT MONTH, they tell me they WONT DO ANYTHING for me. I ask, ISNT IT ILLEGAL to sell something you dont LEGALLY OWN? Am I not entitled to a refund for the fraudulent listing, condition of the car and the fact that he didnt have a title is his name? They tell me no, as long as it is transferred in the next 30 days and he sends it to me, they are not obligated to do anything. I ahve bought 2 other cars and a Harley on Ebay, all with fantastic results, but I GOT BURNED THIS TIME. I threatened theis seller with legal action , trying to scare him into giving some of my $$ back, but the idiot keeps his thought that he did nothing wrong, the best I got was "If I missed a few things, I am sorry" but I never intentionally did anything wrong. So, there it is...I will NEVER buy another thing of any real value on Ebay again! I did just buy a complete set of gauges today from a '77 280 for $11.05 though Seller claims everything works but the clock, for $11 its worth a roll of the dice. I have over 250 transactions and have had nothing but good to great experiences on Ebay, just a couple bad ones, non paying sellers but I just relisted for free. And before anyone says anything about having a fellow board member go check it out in advance, I can only say I wish I had discovered this site before I won the auction. All in all, the car is pretty solid, frame rails, floors, beneath the battery, no visible rust on the body and the motor seems to pull strong. It will just take more time and $$ to get her to where I wanted...it just burns me that I got taken and Ebay doesnt stand behind their "Fraud Protection" program. I guess I could go to court over the whole thing but I dont think its worth the time and aggravation...

I havent driven my car alot, about 100 miles or so since getting it, its a long story as to why, havent gotten the tiltle yet, etc (one of those sad ebay tales, I know, I know). Anyway, I drove it about 1/2 hour a couple nights ago and dropped something in between the drivers seat and transmission tunnel. When I reached down to get it, the side of the seat bottom was hotter than you know what. The carpet on the tunnel was also hot, but not as much so. The passenger side was warm at best. I am wondering if this is from the exhaust running down that side? Any thoughts? Am I missing a heat shield or something? I looked underneath and saw what appeared to be a shield on the pipe coming off the header but it stopped short of the tunnel. I was thinking maybe pulling up the seats and putting the insulation blanket or dynamat or something down...any suggestions/comments are appreciated.

I guess I will pull it apart anyway if/when I go with the Speedhut gauges and have a look. I read a post I found from a long time ago from an owner that claimed he soldered all the diodes, etc firmly in place because when they were hot and expanded they fritzed out. He claimed after doing this he never had another problem. Thanks for the help. If I ever get my title from the "gentleman" ( I use that word instead of what I really should call him) I bought the car from on Ebay, I will start doing a few things that cost $$. I dont want to (obviously) go on a spending spree until I have the title in hand, then its onto the seats, radio, figuring out the blower motor and then tackling the gauges. Add a new steering wheel, shift boot and knob and the interior is done, it had a recent carpet kit installed, 1/2 dash cover and the rest of the panels look to be in great shape.

I will go ahead and pull out the tach and see if I can take it apart and clean it's inards a bit. I started the car today and the tach worked great. I read a post on here using search about heat causing the needle to go haywire, how on hotter days it seemed to be more of a problem. We finally had a break in the heat today, so that might have something to do with it. I will also go ahead and replace the sending unit, it is cheap enough and I'll see if that cures it. Today, when I started it up, the gauge seemed to function normally, I let it idle a few minutes and revved it about 10 times. I appreciate the reply.

Hi all, I am fairly new here, looked up a few searches on a variety of subjects and I think this forum is fantastic. I hope I am posting in the correct area for some general questions. I bought a '77 280 on Ebay(long story) but I am finally able to get around to doing a few things and was wondering if any of you could point me in the right direction on a couple issues. I plan on doing a few things to the interior first to get it all the kinks out, new steering wheel, reupholstering/new foam for the seats and other than that, I need to replace the non functioning radio and straighten out my gauge issues. First is the clock, I did a search on here and found the great link to clock repair. My other issue is the tach and oil pressure guage. The tach functions normally at times and other times sticks at about 3000-3200 r.p.m. It travels slowly to that mark and then stops. Can anyone give me a suggestion on where I need to look or what I need to do to fix it? Buy one, cable, take it out, disassemble and clean it? Same thing with the oil pressure. At times, it seems as if it functions normally, reading about 1/2 way, then at times it drops dramatically and rest below zero. At times, at a stop, it drops to zero and then goes about 1/4 of the way back, other times it stays at zero. Could this be the gauge itself or the sending unit? Once again, can anyone point me in the right direction.One of the first things I did was an oil/filter change, I've put a 100 miles on it or so and the oil is right on the full mark. The gauge was erratic before I did the change. I was thinking of doing the Indiglo guage uprade that I found on here so I would be removing all the guages anyway. I like that reverse look, black face keeping it fairly stock looking but actaully having the ability to see them better. I would obviously like to have them all functioning when I do this, so if you guys have any suggestions (contructive criticism included)..fire away. Thanks! P.S. This is the 4th (and last) vehicle I will get on ebay, the first 3 were great, this one was a nightmare experience. I only wish I had found this site beforehand to see if there was a member close enough to view it in advance. I know there are services out there, but at $200 a pop or more, it adds up to have them view every car of interest. I bought others blind with great success but this experience taught me a lesson to be sure. Ad me to the long list of bad ebay stories! It was meant to be a project anyway, I'll just have more to do to get her right

I saw that ad yesterday. Looks like a great job, a little over kill on all the red in my opinion, but sweet nonetheless. But $45 LARGE??? No thanks! 1/2 that? Maybe, if I had alot cash lying around, but then on 2nd thought, I would just rebuild one the way I wanted it to be for that kinda jack. But dont get me started on Ebay car sales...my 77 280 I got 2 weeks ago has turned into a HUGE mistake on my part! Yes, I am kicking myself. I had bought 3 vehicles prior, all with great results...but this theiving con man broke one off in me and then some...I am currently waiting for Ebay to conclude looking into it, but in speaking with a rep, I dont think their fraud dept. is going to be of much help. If anyone wants to know all the gory details, I could use a good venting but then I will have to hear all the comments about knowing better

Thanks for the tips, I agree, there are many great people on here to be sure. I am thrilled that I came across this site. The outer shift boot has a couple cracks and while I am changing that, I will take your advice and get the inner boot as well. I am torn (pun intended) on what to do about the seats, they are pretty trashed and have some seat pads on them now. I am thinking of rebuliding them with foam/upholstery from MSA or possibly finding replacement seats. I read that Miata seats bolt right up and look similar to stock and I could probably get a used set cheaper than rebuilding the stocks. I have seen alot of "racing seats" on ebay but dont know if I want to go that route and building up new rails, etc. I will have to search on here before deciding. I know I ran across a list of replacements on here. The front end is one of the first things I will tackle, I once again will replace the bushings you spoke of. I looked underneath today and they look to be original, old, black and cracked. I am leaning towards getting the whole bushing kit and doing them all. I want to amke sure I do what I need and want carefully and not go too crazy, I dont want to end up with a TON of $$ in this thing. I feel I already overpaid a bit for what I got. They guy i ran into today with the Black Pearl told me he thought it was a fair price but no deal by any means. So I have to be smarter from this point on, do everything I can do myself to save on labor and farm out the work thats over my head..unless anyone on here knows of any members in the Cincinnati area

Thanks much for the advice. I do plan on driving her for a bit before I start to tear her apart. Some things are very apparent from the start. As far as painting goes..believe me, the paint is toast! It is absolutely hideous, I swear it looks like someone used a brush, although from the overspray on the rubber, windshield! and the engine bay, (yes, all the hoses have overspray!),,it is apparent someone sprayed it. It looks like they put the base on it, and very poorly and then said screw it before applying the clear. It is so thick in spots I dont think I want to try to hit it with 600 grit and spray. I think the best scenario to get it looking really nice is a strip down, removing doors, hood, fenders, etc...and doing it right. True, that kind of paint job costs a small fortune, but I have a gun and compressor and painted my Harley and got compliments every time I rode it. I laid out a nice flame job and it looked like glass when I finished. True, a car is ALOT more than a bike, but the basics are the same. Just alot more work I have an old friend that has a shop with a booth and I am going to do all the prep here and take it up there probably over a weekend...but thats along time off still. Thanks for the heads up on the interior light, I twisted around the door switch last night but will look into that, I figured it must be something to do with the switch since it worked when pressed. The radio is an older Sony/cassete, it has power as the digital clock works but I get nothing when I turn it on. Since its aftermarket, I will just replace, if it were stock, I would try to make it work, I am an AM kinda guy anyway I will get some photos posted besides my avatar. I just finished doing an oil/filter change (the oil filter had paint overspray on it as well), replaced the air filter and now Im going out to flush the radiator. I am starting with some basics that I figure should be done and work my way from there. But I drove the car about 50 miles so far today, feeling it, listening to it, just as you said. Thanks again for the great advice!

Well Jim, thanks for asking the obvious question Unfortunately, I didnt find this site until after I purchased the car, I joined up on ehre not too long after. I wish I had known about this site beforehand. BUT...it will be very useful to me now that I have found it! I have been researching on here for weeks now, this forum will prove to be invaluable to me. Funny thing, I am in Cincinanti, and due to the winters, salt, etc, most Z's around here dissolved many, many years ago. I started searching online a couple months ago because there was very little around here. I just went to buy oil and filter and a couple misc. things at my local parts store, come walking out..and there was a 78 280 sitting there. First one Ive seen on the road in many, many months! He had bought it a few months back and we compared cars, he opens his hood and I see the paint code..it was a Black Pearl...paint code 638! It has seen better days, it had some type of chemical spill all over it, the guy he bought it from said it was parked next to some chemical place and just got hammered one day...alot of the paint has been eaten away and what was left was cracked up. He, like me, plan on doing a slow refreshing on it...so we swapped numbers...kinda cool. Thanks again for the obvious question though

Not sure why the rest of my post didnt show up...anyway..damn new users She definitely will need the paint stripped off..it looks like an AWFUL amateur job. I looked into soda blasting her down, waiting on reply from a couple different people. On the rust side..I have to say that it is one shining spot. No visible rust at all, I went around the car with a magnet and it stuck everywhere I put it. Under the battery tray looks great with just the slightest bit of surface rust. Open up the doors and it looks great, underneath looks good, the rails and floors appear to be solid. I finally got the hatch open after reading links on here on how to open it (thanks), I was pushing down and turning the key at the same time The hatch area appears solid but the hatch itself has some rot on the inside lip. That is all I could find on he car. Interior, the seats are shot, need to be rebuilt with new foam/upholstery kit, but the ad stated that. The clock is not working but was told that as well. It has a 1/2 dash cap. The tach seems to stick around 3000rpm from time to time. The radio doesnt work and neither does the blower motor, these things were not mentioned to me. The interior lights work (map light) and the dome light comes on when I push it but does not go off when I close the door..is this normal anyone? She does have a new carpet kit installed and all the interior pieces are there and in reasonably good shape. The chrome strip is about gone off the door panels and they have had speakers installed in them, but overall, the inside looks good. Driving? She pulls strong and smooth, brakes seem a little weak but seemed better the more I drove. No weird rattles or noises, no clunks. The steering however feels funny, it just doesnt feel right. It has the shimmy at highway speeds..seems to get better the faster I go but around town it just feels heavy and sloppy at the same time if that makes sense to anyone. I had the dreaded fume thing going too with the window open. Overall, my first impression was oh no, what did I do this for. Buying a car blind, I deserve what I got. After giving it a closer inspection, it doesnt seem that bad actually and afterall, she is meant to be a mild-moderate project anyway. I am thinking of starting with the interior as it doesnt look like it will take that much to get it nice. Aftermarket steering wheel/shifter knob from Motorsport, and foam/upholstery kit for the seats. Aftermarket radio, figure out the fan problem, then get a reconditioned clock and tach and put a full dash cover on it and it will be looking great. Mechanically, I will have to go over the front end, new bushings seem a good place to start and figure out what needs to be done to make it right. Probably do the 4 piston brake job while Im down there. Engine, just a good cleaning, fluid change, put a set of plugs/wires and thats about it. Aftermarket muffler as she is QUIET! Any suggestions? I like the look ofthe Monza setup or twice pipes from MSA. Then it is onto the body, strip it, do the needed ding repairs, paint and new seals. I am thinking of changing the bumpers over, not too crazy about the body kit look, might go the fiberglass style from 70-73 and fabricate mounts for them. The tires look fairly new, and the rims are in great shape..I hate to admit it, I kinda like the white letters on it. So, thats about it..to rate her..I'd give her about a 6.5-7 overall, mainly due to the lack of rust. My goal is to bring her up to about a 9. I would consider it to be a tired driver right now in desperate need of attention. Stay tuned and thanks for reading.

After 4 weeks of waiting, my 77 280Z has finally arrived. It was an Ebay sale frm Oregon and I picked her up tonight. My initial reaction was not good. The paint was described as not of high quality and that was an understatement. It looks like someone painted her with a brush and rattle cans! I knew that it was in need of a paint job so this isnt that big of a deal. The rubber looks like it could be stand being replaced around the doors.