EverRude

Mustangs have the advantage of a large aftermatket support. There is no such thing as a part is no longer produced. Ford recognized finally that it was the restorers and collectors could make them money by licencing reproduction parts. Entire bodies officially licenced as a Ford part. Doubt that's viable with Z's because there are far fewer to support the after market. Yeah the Z is a bad investment once you get past that "sweet spot" in value. Spend smartly and keep cost around 6-8k and might get your money back on a good looking good running car. Go over that and you're just spending money for something you enjoy that can't return its value. And that's fine. How many of us have had or still have hobbies that cost alot to enjoy but you can't sell? Like playing golf? Can easily cost alot of money and return nothing but the fun and frustration of the game.

No clue when this was done to my car. But it apparently had simular issues. Too dark to take more pic's but here's one of that area and the clear amount of welding that went in to fix it. It aint pretty but car seems fine. Ofcourse I haven't driven it yet.

Quick update, Had family over for the weekend. So that ruined fridaya nd saturday for working on Z. After they left and I sufficiently recovered from my hangover I got the car up on jack stands and pulled all 4 wheels. rear drums came off easily enough. Interestingly enough drivers drum was different than passengers. Passenger's side was a Century brand cast iron but the drivers was visibly smaller and lighter, original? All my new parts aside from braided steel lines and wheel cylinders, are Centric. They seem to make good stuff and though I could of saved a few dollars mismatching pieces for best price I wanted to stick with one company for the entire build. Blasted everything with PB Blaster to get ready for disassembly tommorrow. Still waiting on all the parts to arrive so I got time to let everything soak and maybe I wont have to fight as hard getting everything apart. Not holding my breath though. So that's the update. Maybe in a week or so this neglected and abused Z will see some time on the road.

If it was your coil it would probably get hot stop working then cool off and start working again. Did you check and see if it got hot. However coil shouldn't react differently to WOT than idle so that sorts rules it out anyways. Guess you could add a clear fuel filter to the fuel line temporarily to see if rust is in the system. Or drain tank straining with a clean white towel. I'd shake car a bunch before opening the drain plug to get rust floating around. The thing that gets me is the 5 min regularity. That says electrical. But the WOT bogging changes that. Well this is an injected car so my troubleshooting ability is nil to none. That ECU and all the supporting sensors screw everything up for me. Gimme carbs.

Try www.oldairproducts.com they list York compressors and adaptirs for them on their site.

Thank you. That will help alot in the future. Seems they make body, interior, and engine kits that cover most items. Just gotta find a source for chassis parts. Thanks again Ray

I'm restoring a 1970 mustang and I use bolts kits from a company called AMK to replace all my original hardware. A box full of bags of hardware labeled for specific section of the car like R/H fender, left door, bumber bracket...etc. Anyone offer a similar service for Z's? Or is there an easy way to look up and purchase new hardware for chassis parts that I know will be rusty or broken before I even begin work? Saves that mid-job trip to store to find.replacement bolts and such?

There's a few more pics in my "Garage" of the car. If you mean pics of the work I'm doing right now it's all basic stuff. Not much to show off. Later when I do rust repairs and body work I'll post alot more.

Yeah I have a problem with while-i'm-at-it-itis... Specifically forcing myself not to do it this time. I have a 70 Mustang that is still in pieces waiting for body work and paint that started out as a suspension upgrade 3 years ago.

Yep. 240 are crazy expensive. Rotors were higher priced too. Double the price of 280 atleast what I was looking at. Noone have info about the differences in masters? Would the zx master be too much for a stock setup?

Gah wish I had asked this before. Just bought a set of those incredibly expensive series 1 wheel cylinders. At this point it seems I am committed to this. Repair should be doable though it may require some heat. Bending tin is what I am best at so I'll go with it. I was confused because I read several rear disk conversion threads that stated to cut the backing plate off. Noone seemed to mention the ability to remove it. Guess they need part of it in place as a spacer and or saving themselves the headache of removal and reassembly? Thanks for correcting me and the advice guys :-)

Finally figured out for myself that the backing plates are part of strut tube. No choice but to try and fix then as best I can when I install brakes.

I appreciate y'alls support and advice. The most trouble I am having is fighting while-i'm-at-it-itis. Did that with my mustang. Drove it for a year after buying. I did a tune up, flushed everything, and complete brakes (sound familiar?). Then after a year I finally decided to fix the severely worn out suspension. Then.... while I was at it I pulled engine to restore engine bay and motor. Within a week the car was a shell and I was building a rotisserie. Its still a shell. Engine bay is beautiful. Undercarriage is immaculate. New stainless brake and fuel lines. Roller bearing control arms...etc. Tons of upgrades. Everything I wanted to start with. But no interior, wiring, engine, trans, glass.... sigh. I want to avoid that desparately this time around. Afterall I still have a mustang to finish and this I want as a driver. Restoration may come later.

Thanks Carl. Yeah doing clutch master and slave as well. Need to add a line to that and swap it for silicone. Hadn't thought of it. I even heard the sound of rust crunching inside the apparently new slave while bleeding. One other question. Is there any benefit or detriment to a 280z or early 280zx (verticle mount) on a 240z with stock brakes. I know the zx has. 15/16 bore so it moves more fluid. Will that make pedal throw uncomfortably short? And the 280z lists as not compatible with 240z, why? Looks sam except reservoirs. This where they swapped position of which reservoir served which end of car.?

Replacing my entire brake system. Notice some PO bent up the rear backing plates and presume using them to pry off stuck drums. Hopefully I can straighten them. What is a good sourse for replacements if not? Also since I am replacing my entire brake system and considering using silicone fluid. The inability to absorb water should make replacing metal parts less necessary in the future since they should not corrode as much. Am I wrong?

It's worth it I know. Just went ahead and basically bought an entirely new brake system. I want to enjoy the ride not worry some critical will fail. But it looks like I'll be working some overtime for this car. To do some upgrades. Heh. Need more money. Anyone wanna buy a half finished 1970 Mustang fastback project for about 10k? hehe

Oh it's killing me. Now I find a rear wheel cylinder is leaking. I didn't see any leak before. So do I need master or not....gah. If I could buy this stuff local I would simply fix these problems as they pop up. But since I have to wait days for a part, install it, then find and another problem, then wait days for that part........ I really need to disassemble everything to check or I just buy all new stuff. Looking at $600 plus to do all brakes with all new replacement parts exc/hardlines. Screw this. Time to put this thing on jackstands and remove wheels so I can inspect everything properly. May not need rotors and drums. Would save 150 or so there.

I gotta do just the master cylinder to start. I need to test drive this darn thing before I spend any more cash. I really need to start planning ahead though as well. Needing things today but having to have everything shipped isn't capatible and very frustrating. But it's not like I am lacking things to do. Let's see... troubleshoot fuel guage, repair rust, figure out why blinkers don't work, clean, clean, clean.... and most of this stuff doesn't cost any money. Yet....

Nevermind about brake rotor question figured it out. Unless my hubs were changed to later hubs they wont fit. Which is something I need to check before I buy anything.

Yeah I had already said no just wanted to be sure there wasnt some advantage id be missing. Better rear end? Later model hubs. Yeah I have space and yes wife would complain until I stripped and scrapped body. There's an all original 240 nearby that is literally falling apart from rust. Noone answers when I knock. Hate doing cold calls like that. But the car would be perfect for most of the parts id want. Definitely interior.

I have a 71 240z. Local guy has a 280z 2+2 automatic that rusted out but complete and original cheap. Would enough parts be usable to me that buying it would be beneficial? Not concerned with show car originality on my 240. Just form and function. Also have no interest in fuel injection.

Nevermind. Found answer. They wont. Different hubs. Can't search while on phone at work using forum tool. Manage to find answer with google search. A few nods have been done to my car. Better check hubs before I do anything.

Found a good deal on 260/280 rotors but it doesn't mention 240. Different part numbers for 240 at 3 times the price. Will the 260/280 rotors fit 240 or not? Thanks

New oil pump installed (primed before install). Pressure now sits around 1/3 of guage. Is this normal? Idling high right now at around 1500 to 2000 and engine temp in sitting right in middle. What should my pressure be? ' Was going to do a quick test drive but brake pedal dropped near to floor and light came on. Checked fluid level and rear master reservoir was nearly empty. So no test drive and now I need a new master. Thinking about doing whole brake system. As for brake parts Centric brakes seems to make a good product at reasonable price. They have some $25 rotors but don't list 240 as compatible. Shows 260 and 280. Wont fit? She runs fairly well. No smoke or noises. Just high rpm. And a slight stumble. Did the raise the carb cylinder test too disable carb while idling. Raising rear carb kills the engine. Doing front carb barely affects the engine. I assume I am only running on 3 cylinders? Thanks Ray

I like the all quilted vinyl look but if some carpet is stock I guess I'll go with that. Thanks guys.