janaka

17" Konig Imagine's 215.45.17 tires

I haven't had the tranny looked at since I bought the car in Decemeber. The car definately did not bottom out on the highway, the crease was like the end of new pavement to where they had ripped off the old topcoat, so like a 2" drop suddenly. is the return line on the carb was clogged as mentioned would the car still run on its own with no load on the motor? the car was in 5th gear at about 2500-3000rpm maintaining speed. I hit the bump and then, with no change in throttle position the rpm would spike/plumet which is when i lost power. If I tried accelerating through it I got vibrations through the peddle and no acceleration. No noises from the tranny that I isolated at the time. With the clutch depressed I could rev the motor to my (and my wife's) recollection. IMO this seems tranny is causing the issues becuase with no load on the motor, IE. in neutral, there are no issues, as soon as it goes into gear (1st, or 2nd even) and I start to load the motor by accelerating even at 10% throttle it'll bog down on me. Its not like it's bogging at 50-100% throttle only. I can get it into first gear if I nurse off the clutch slowly with no throttle and the car rolling (ie down hill a little). but again as soon as i try to accelerate it wants to bog till i clutch in. That said almost 9/10 people I talk to about this say fuel issue. One person is blaming the Holley Red pump as its more of a race pump I'm told than a daily driver pump and that the fuel pressure at idle is ok but once under load the volume is not where it needs to be. Makes sense except I don't get how it can rev to 5k with no fueling issues then at 10mph it bogs at 2000rpm Other people say fuel filters, clogged lines etc etc but again how would they flow to support 5k rev and again nothing at 10mph? That's what confuses me the most. The 1/10 that think tranny say maybe a spring pop'd off the clutch and it will grab under little/no load, ie coasting but as soon as load is applied its slipping/disengaging. And the bent fork option as said above. Sorry for the long winded response. I certainly appreciate all the help and patience with the Z newb (carb newb too). When I find out what this is I will certainly post for all to know. Jason

Well I guess I should introduce myself here since I've already posted asking for help from the club in the Help Me! section. My name is Jason, I purchased a 1976 280Z in Dec of 2006 from Florida and drove it home to Ontario Canada the following day (2200km drive non-stop!) The car did the drive flawlessly for her age and got me decent milage on the way 23mpg at 70mph all the way. Details of the car itself can be found on my cardomain page located here at my Datsun page. Basically it was bought as a 95% restored car that needed only mirror touches to finish it off which I am working on slowly. It has been dyno'd at 162.0 RWHP and 162.0 lb/ft torque and tracked at 15.6s @ 89.9MPH in the 1/4mile The car is an absolute joy to drive and I enjoy the weekend jaunts to neighboring cities and what not as its always turning heads and just a fun driving car. Unfortunately I'm having some issues with it currently but I'm not going to let that stop the fun nor my excitement for the car. It will get fixed and i will continue to drive it hard Thats all for now but i'm sure I will become a regular over time on here. Cheers jason

Hello all; Unfortunately I don't like posting things like this but my Z left me stranded down in Niagara Falls two weeks ago and I had to have it towed home to Cambridge. anyway here's what happened. I was cruising on the QEW Niagara and merging onto the 402 to NOTL. I hit a nice deep crease in the highway and then all of a sudden my RPM jumped to ~5000rpm I thought it poped out of gear but it didn't. the car then proceeded to drop to ~1500rpm and bog, total loss of power. All of this in a span of a second or so with my accelerator at the same position. when it dipped i tried to accelerate through it but it just pulsated at me and no power. I downshifted and it caught 4th gear and was ok for a few seconds till i hit the next bump and it did it in 4th gear, jump of rpm then bog... scary as all hell at 70-80mph anyway i limped to the BBQ i was going to and then got it towed home. Since then I have had the Z started and was able to get it to opperating temps with no issues (big cam needs to be idled at 2k or more to get to opperating temps to idle on its own). I can rev through the RPM range to 5000rpm in nuetral NO issues at all. I thought today was my lucky day, threw it in first and rolled down the driveway, eased off the clutch and it caught gear ok and idled in gear at 5kph, as soon as i accelerated it bogged and wanted to stall as it did the day it was towed. so much for my lucky day. I've pulled the plugs, front 3 are great, rear three are whitish, carb running a bit lean, wires are fine, distributor looks ok no loose wires/connections. I haven't had time to go much further indepth at this point. I really will appreciate any help in this as it drives me nuts not knowing whats wrong more than having the car not running. I just want to drive it again 1976 280Z Mod LIST Engine/Drivetrain L28 #F54 engine block, flattop pistons, siamesed cylinders The block was professionally boiled and cylinders honed. New- piston rings, crankshaft bearings, oil pump, timing gear and chain kit, water pump, freeze plugs, gaskets and seals, hoses and belt. P79 cylinder head. Performance rebuild including- resurfaced head, 3 angle valve grind, rocker arms, lash pads, springs and retainers, seals. Schneider cam- .460 valve lift, 270 intake duration, 280 exhaust duration. Dual domed top 4 screw SU carbs- rebuilt, performance needles and nozzles. N33 carb intake manifolds. K&N air filter. MSA 6 into 1 header. MSA 2.5 inch aluminized performance exhaust with super turbo muffler. Holley “RED” fuel pump with adjustable pressure regulator. running at 7psi Inline fuel filter. Fuel tank cleaned and sealed (POR-15). Late model “close ratio” 5-speed transmission. 2+2 flywheel mated to a Perfection brand performance clutch. R-200 differential with 3.90 gears, new u-joints, rebuilt half shafts, solid diff mount. Nissan electronic distributor with a E12-80 ignition module, Standard Plus UC15 12V coil, NKG BPR6ES-11 spark plugs, Standard Plus silicone core A-5 spark plug wires, new fusible links and covers. New Autocraft Silver 585 CCA battery I'm located in cambridge and any help as mentioned is appreciated. if someone has a shop they recommend to diagnose/fix this i would love to know so i can get my baby back on the road. if email is easier my personal email is jason_anaka@rogers.blackberry.net thank you Jason