moritz55

I'm interested in upgrading my alternator to the 60amp 280zx version. I have a Sept, 1972 vintage 240z. There are no fusable links visible to me, but would still like to upgrade to 60amp alternator. Do you think this is safe? I felt I could run the 8 gauge (Red) wire from the + Alternator --> + Starter post parrallel to the harness wiring. I'll have a Maxi 60amp fuse in the middle of the 8 guage wire run. Question: The Starter post this connects to is the Battery Terminal (Red) post I presume - not the soleniod post (the soleniod post comes from the ingnition switch I presume??) Many thanks.

Dave - I'm interested in adding the 280ZX alternator and the Regulator Adapter (which I'd like to purchase from you). Can help clarify the 8 gauge wire you ran from the Alternator to the Starter? Is the 8 gauge a HOT (RED) running from the Alternator Boot Terminal -- to the --> Starter HOT (Red) terminal? Many thanks, Mark.

Thanks Dave for the thought. I don't follow your number schemes , like temrinal 30 or terminal 87 ? Explain in simple terms for me would help. Once I re-assembled the switches and the interior I spent Saturday doing some tuning of my Holley carb. I haven't taken it out yet for a cruise - but the switches Turn & Combo work superbly! Many thanks.

Thanks for such a quick response! My Holley automatic choke is not electrically connected, so I presume before I do anything, I can hook it up and try it. I have not looked closely enough to see where the wire connects to the Holley carb. I presume the wire input to the electronic choke on the carb comes from a hot wire off the ignition circuit. Many thanks.

Sorry I wasn't clear... I mean the gas pump sensor. When it foams or fumes click it off... I have 2+ gals left in the tank befoe I top it fully up to 15+ gals...

I missed type item #1 on the above posting..... it should read. Corrected Point: 1) When filling the tank (I think it's a 15.5gal tank), the pump clicks off at the 13gal mark. The fuel gage reads just over 3/4 Full (closer to 7/8 full). Sorry

I just tuned my 1973 240z which has a 390 cfm Holley 4 Barrell carb. It runs super once wamed up,. It was an Arizona car and actually had the choke butterfly clamped wide open all the time. For starting in Arizona - I'm sure this was fine, but since I live in the upper Mid-West, I need the choke for cool and cold days to effectively start it. Question : 1) Should I use a Manual Choke since the car is equipped with the lever on the console and choke light? 1a) If yes - has anyone wired up the choke light and can give me tips on where to connect the choke switch to the wiring harness ? 2) Should I use the Holley automatic choke and have it calibrated and adjusted for my weather in the upper Mid-West? I was leaning toward the manual choke option because it's easily adjustable but unless I can connect the Choke light up so I don;t accidentally leave it on all the time - I can be swayed to having the Holley carb's automatic choke be activated and adjusted. I welcome comments and thoughts. Many thanks.

Here's some of my experience on my 1973 240z. I just installed new fuel sending unit and don't have a fuel light but after calibrating it I notcied a couple of things. 1) When filling the tank (I think it's a 15.5gal tank), the pump clicks off at the 13gal mark. The fuel gage reads just over 3/4 Full (closer to 7/8 full). and the gage reads Full. 2) The 1st Half a tank reading on the fuel gage is really 1/3 the capacity(about 4-5gals) where as the 2nd Half tank readings measure 2/3 of the tank capacity (8-9gals). 3) When the fuel gage reads empty, square on the E line, I have approx. 2 gals left. I can go for 45-50miles before running the tank to empty. I actually tried this and carried a 2gal tank with me and validate it. This is very similar to how my original 1970 240z tank measured when it was factory installed many years ago. I suppose I can recalibrate the fuel sensor, but for now it works for me.

THANK YOU Zs-ondabrain !!!! I received the swithces today, installed them and the work super! Also, thank you for mailing the defective parts back as weel. I can see exactly what you mean! These switches look NEW - thanks again, problem solved!

I did mail the Turn Signal & C/S Assembly on Friday 8/10 so you should be getting them shortly. Many thanks again!

Thanks Dave (Zs-Ondabrain), I'm traveling again and will be back 8/9. I'll take you up on this offer to rebuild the broken one and get it mailed out by the weekend. Many thanks!

MikeW, thanks on the eBay auction, I missed it by the time I read this. Does your extra C/S switch come WITH intermitent wipers or WITHOUT. Looks like mine is a slightly older 1973 version WITHOUT intermitent wipers, just speed positions (Slow --> Fast). The one I have has the square 6 pin white plastic connector (not a rectangular white one). I'd be interested in buying it. How much would you sell it for and include the shipping costs to Rochester, MN 55902 ? Many thanks ,

I completed the debug effort with the help of Zs-Ondabrain guidance and have confirmed I have a bad C/S switch in the Parking Position Only. The actually I can see that the spring/button retention socket ion the Parking Switch side is missing (has broken off) a small tab that keep the spring/button retained when I switch to Headlights On. Actually when I reassembled the switch and confirmed 0 Ohms across both Parking & Headlight positions - I was optimistic it would work. However after cycling the switch several times, the Parking spring/button kept falling out of it's socket, that's when I noticed it was missing a small upright tab that retains it when you turn Headlights & Parking Lights toward the OFF position. Anyway - on to finding a replacement C/S Switch for my 1973 - 240z . Does anyone know where I could get a refurbished or replaceemnt C/S switch? ps.... DAGZEE , I did change all the buldbs and clean the contacts, that's how I got them to work originally after I cleaned the combination/switch . Many thanks.

I completely cleaning the grounds, both the one below the battery near starter, and the other one above the passenger kick plate. They were very very corroded. I also found a secondary ground wire (10 gauge I think??) at the battery terminal end that went to the frame. It was not tightly connected to the terminal clamp so I tightened this up and also cleaned it good. I turned on the parking lights and they work along with the dash lights same as before. Then I turned on the headlights and they worked fine but the parking lights went off again similar to before. My next task will be to check the C/S switch as recommended to see it I read 0 ohms between green/white green/blue wires when switched on. Stay tuned and many thanks, Mark.

Sorry, I sent the reply to quick. I did clean the grounds on the regulator/capacitor and alternator, also the one under the dash center console (near the fuse box). Once I complete the 2 you mentioned, I'll let you know how I make out. I'm traveling this week and will get to it 8/6 . Many thanks !

Thanks Zs-ondabrain, you've given me enough to focus on. Is there somewhere I can find exactly how many Ground Points/Conections to the body exist on the 1973 240z? You've given me 2 Ground points to work on. 1) On the frame below the battery. (across from the starter). 2) Upper right side passenger kick panel for that same ground wire and check the connection there as well. The

I recently bought a 1973 - 240z. I just disassembled & cleaned the Wiper Switch, Turn Signal Switch and the Combination Switch. As a result, hazards flash brighter, wipers are faster, the dash lights now work(did not before) and the parking lights & headlights are all brighter. This is the good news. The bad news is that when I turn the combination switch from Parking Lights --> Headlights, the dash lights/parking lights go out! For some reason they don't stay lit. I pulled out the C/S and validated the switch appears to work properly. I confirmed continuity across the parking light (green wires) in both parking light and headlight positions, while the headlight continuity is only measured when in the headlight position. I'm a bit baffled, and have cleaned the grounding connections, validated the fuses work and haven't been able to find a fusible link to see if this is a problem? I don't think this car has a fusible link? Can anyone give me some debug tips? I'm at a loss right now - many thanks.

I just had new keys cut for my 1973 240z. I took all the locks off (2-doors, hatchback and glove compartment) and brought them to a Locksmith. They have cataloges , give them the Year, Model and they can llook up the key's becuase the locks have ID numbers stamped on them. He made me a New Master set that works eveything. Also, he reconditioned the locks so the flaps and tumblers work slick ! It was well worth the $80.00 I spent... good luck. Mark

1995 Dodge Viper Dark Emerald Green is a really nice color as shown on this 1973 240z that's been restored. These photos attached may help give you a perspective. I really like this color, good luck Mark.