Bruce Palmer

Recoatability: Zero Rust and Rust Shield will recoat with fewer problems because both chemical and mechanical bonding mechanism are still available. The moisture cured Urethanes, POR, Rust Bullet, et al only have mechanical available becuse the chemical bond sites are taken up in the process of catalyzation. The "moisture-cures" use the moisture in the atmosphere to cure the film. This curing process results in a product that will require tie-coats etc to facilitate adhesion........ On the epoxy primer front, To my way of thinking the use of the alyds DTM (direct to metal) precludes the need for the epoxy primers at all. My point to users is to use ZR or ?? to lock down any existing rust, let the ZR go to full cure and then build your sandable system on top of that. Here's something for all of us to think about. If, your project has totally prepared white metal blasted steel, why wouldn't one just go with the automotive "sytem" from the steel up? These rust and corrosion control coatings have a place, but is this it? I would like to hear everyone's ideas on this. If we kick this can down the road for a bit I bet all of our projects can benefit.

Phil, So as to not have this become too self serving, I'll PM you with dealer info....

Okay, just to highlight this safety issue and fluff it up a bit, the isocyanates are kept out of the lungs with fresh air supplied breathin apparatus. Isocyanates are odorless so even though a good charcoal paint mask will catch 'em, because you can't smell 'em you can't tell that they got past a poorly sealing mask 'til it's too late. Isocyanates are why you see very few old painters. On the other hand the alkyds, Rust Shield and Zero Rust (the one Rust Shield knocked off) both will get you by with a good organic paint mask. If the mask doesn't get sealed well to your face, the solvent smell will let you know.. I've been marketing Zero Rust into the industrial and restoration market and putting distribution in place across the US and Canada for 20 years now and am willing to answer any questions to the best of my ability with Mike's blessing, so ask away.

Good to see I'm not the only one sailing in the "idiot" fleet today.

Hell once I saw the lure in the water I swam right over to the boat and was about to jump in when......... What the date today? RUN, run run!!! Too late, Nyuck nyuck

I'll bet there are more than one parts house where you live that can fill the bill for you. I'm vizualizing fingers walking through some yellow pages.

I've been reading writeups from this Summit Point gathering for quite a number of years and it seems like they have quite a time. Cars are coming from ME and NH from the north and all the way down the eastern seaboard so it's just not a Saturday night cruise. I can't help but think that it wouldn't benefit from the addition of some other Datsun models, just like Canby.......

In seven years of owning the company, Steve has answered the ZTherapy phone exactly ZERO times. I however, do a maaaavelous Steve impersonation. Now give me the damn credit!!! Man I need something to do....... ;^)

Now this is the point where I jump in and take all the credit for single handedly solving this carb related issue... Nyuck nyuck

If you're looking for input on machine shops in that neck of the woods you should call Roger Schmidt at ZBarn in the Knoxville area. 869-983-0314 As far as where to go with those carbs.... Anybody have any suggestions?

The wagon belongs to Randy York. Very nice example of a VG-30 Dime.

Belts and hoses, belts and hoses, belts and hoses!!! If they are 5 years old, change 'em........ Been there, didn't done that, bit me.....:dead:

Holy cow batman!! That certainly isn't a Southern California car is it? Looks like it's been around the world under water. Lots of work involved in getting the corrosion shut down and structural issues taken care of.

Whoa!! That's like 30 months between posts. Certainly do hope he got his problem solved long before this....... Nyuck nyuck

Start by making sure you've got both ends of the interior linkage capturing the linkage on BOTH of the carbs..... You'd be surprised how often that gets overlooked. Are the return springs hooked up?

Get in there with carb cleaner and douche out in the nozzle tube while working the nozzle up and down to cut the varnish out between the nozzle and the tube. You can do this with the dome off and the piston out and you can drop the nozzle out and run a small bottle brush through the nozzle tube while blasting with carb cleaner. After reassembly, run the car and check for gas standing on top of the nozzle. That sounds like where the drool down the side of the tube is coming from............. If that's the case either your nozzle is set too low or your float is set too high. Try adjusting the nozzle up before playing with the float.

Which carbs do you have? Flat tops or round tops......

If you are going to chuck those carbs into carb claeaner, remove any rubber parts first. The float bowl indexers specifically...... They will turn to pudding in relatively short order.

Wanna know how to make those zero value carbs worth $150 instantly? Nyuck nyuck!!

I'm taking the counter position. The dribbling gas is due to a correct float level and a fuel nozzle is set too low allowing gas to pool-up on top of the nozzle. It may have already been mentioned here but I'd say run both nozzles all the way up and then back them both down 2 1/2 turns and start your tuning from there. At 2 1/2 turns down, if you still have gas pooling, hence leaking by the tube onto the nozzle head (and the exhaust manifold) then you may have a float level issue. It's a bit of the chicken and egg thing.

Don't forget to have any and all shops to budget in any rust repair work. Spending money on paint over hidden rust (which northwest cars are known for) will only make you soggy and hard to light when those all too common rust blisters start raising that paint. Any body out ther want to give me an amen?? The painter at our shop is getting all to good at replacing doglegs and taillight panels on "rust free" Z's. He's getting very adept at buidling in rust contingencies into his "estimates".......

Checking float level should be done with the float hanging down and the pivot pin at the top. Blow gently into the fuel supply tube qhile moving the float toward the lid. You feel the pressure change when the needle and a seat closes. At that point the distance at the far end away from the float pivot pin..... With the lid inverted, you'll automatically over-power the tiny spring inside the needl and seat giving an erroniouse reading. Sounds like you're getting close. We have a lot of customers who start messing with floats without stopping to ask, why would the float levels change? Fiddling with float levels often times cause more problems than they solve when it often comes down to nozzle being incorrectly set or choke cables being too tight or any one of a number of other adjustments being hay wire. Believe me we see them everyday.......

cebu, Where in Texas are you?

These Hitachis are a metric version of the SU 1 3/4". They were made under license from SU by Hitachi. Instead of saying they were the "same" as 68 Volvo, it would be more precise to say they are "very similar" to the HS series SUs used on MGs, Tirumphs, Jaguars, etc. etc. etc. Before assuming the float level has somehow magically changed, assume for a moment that the nozzle is too low allowing fuel to stand on top of it thus leaking down onto the nozzle heads. It's easier to achieve "tune" by adjusting nozzle up and down than it is to chase the float level around. Float level does not adjust the amount of fuel into the jet nozzle.... it raises and lowers the fuel level in the nozzle tube or in the case of a too high situation allows fuel to puddle on top of the tube. As far as the 1/8" float setting is concerned, you think you have fuel drooling out now?? Any and all SU float settings will be give or take 9/16" and when the nozzles are set correctly the static fuel level will be about a 1/16" below the top of the nozzle.

To fully understand the inter-relationship of things on Hitachis, I'm suggesting the JUST SUs Video or DVD would be a real asset in helping to go thru these carbs. At this point it's impossible to make suggestions about what may or may not be causing the symptoms, at least for me.