Bruce Palmer

So this is a hot weather phenom right? Is your 260 heat shield in place? return springs are hooked to what?. Fuel rail lines wrapped as if they were supplying flat tops? Happens at idle too? leave your floats alone. Check those plugs after you run it some this spring (if it ever gets here) for color uniformity. Tap the offending float bowl with a screwdriver handle when it happens as you may have a needle and seat hanging shut.....

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Email me at ztherapy@msn.com and I'll hook you up with Greg. There's a club on the island too. VIDE Vancouver Island Datsun Enthusiasts. Stick with us, we'll get you up to speed.....

Well, frankly any manifold will work 3 screw, 4 screw, or flat top, matters not. Flat top balance tubes are uglier than home made sin but other than that I believe the flat top manifold manifold might even flow a little better than the earlier manifolds. That is based ONLY on looking into the intake runners on both manifolds. We are also seeing more guys wanting to disable the water thru the manifolds entirely. Just one less thing to go TU and leave one standing beside the road...... Do you know Greg McCauley on the island? He has Some Z stuff. I know he has a primo early air cleaner he'd like to sell.....

Which carbs are you going to be running? 3 screws have the provisions for water through the insulators into the carb bodies. How much cold weather driving do you plan on doing.

Portland Oregon area. www.datsunsnw.org for details as they develop. Understanding that the same group of people have been doing the heavy lifting on this event for several years now I want to put the word out that should any of you who will be there like to volunteer an hour or two helping out, it would be greatly appreciated..... Don't need to be a club member to help out either. That's just how reasonable the club is. It's the fees that cover the costs..... It's the bodies that get it done....

3 screws were the last carbs used before the infamous flat tops came out. 3 screws were used in conjunction with the manifolds that had the water ports between the bottom two mounting bolts on the inlet side of the manifold. Functionally no difference between them and their 4 screw brothers.

I would guess "unhappy" module. Take it off the disrtributor and clean behind it so is isn't contacting the distributor body. Don't recall where I heard that but it was on the internet so it must be the pure quill.... I had a Maxima that had an "unhappy" module that was very sensitive to heat but by the time I'd pull into a lot and raise the hood it would have cooled down enough to start again. Just for grins, you might pull the float bowl lids and see if you have any accumulated beads of water rolling around on the bottoms of your float bowls. Another old wives tale that a bead of water can plug the outlet.

Now, how aggravating would it be to turn out to be something as simple as that? Makes all the sense in the world. All you other guys writing this down?

Yep, getting the "fuel pump running" thing in synch with the "engine running" thing certainly ought to be a priority. Nyuck nyuck.....

Our best to all down there.

I did my part when I asked the question...... Even a blind hog.... etc. etc. etc.

What kind of induction system did the 2.8 have? I'd get a large container and take a fuel line in the engine compartment loose and just let the fuel pump run and see, if a minute or two into the run, the volume drops off significantly. Then unhook the gas line on the upstream side of the filter in question and let 'er run. Probably looking for greater flow rate here more than anything. OR..... just replace that filter and see what that does. You say after it dies it takes a bit before it fires up again. I'm guessing that is a delay in refilling the float bowls, hence constricted volume, me thinks.

Exactly when and how does this starvation problem show up? After the engine shuts off is the fuel pump still running? Happened on the last engine and this engine and you haven't driven this one yet? Old and confused, so very very confused..... nyuck nyuck Do not adjust the floats......

We've got 3 liter and larger motors running 46's.

Very nicely done..... That's one ATTABOY in your column.

And we sell a DVD that will show you how to install whatever you find......

Now that is a sterling piece of info. If you are running near stock tire height you should be good to go with the white gear. Does the white gear need any reorientation in the tranny case to mesh the teeth with the drive gear?

What rear end gears are you running now? From that ratio to the new ratio, it is purely that % difference, old speedo gear to new speedo gear. That's also assuming you aren't changing tire sizes also. With the sppedo gears that are available, you will more than likely only get close.

A "purist" would leave all that stuff hooked up. Factory original pipe plugs? Now that's too funny......

American Pipe taps are close enough to chase the threads and then install standard Allen head pipe plugs the soem teflon sealer. Don't have to chase arounf trying to find metric.

And just that quickly we go from carb talk to...... well you know......

Whatever you do, stop that dieseling ASAP or you will break the top ring lands off the pistons and you will be an unhappy camper. Carbon build up, timing too advanced. Turn the car off in gear with one foot on the brake and let the clutch out...... That'll stop the run on...... Check to make sure your choke cables have some slack in them when the choke is off and make sure the nozzles are returning to the full up position when the choke lever is off.

HMmmmm.....