New-to-240z

I have a multimeter and tested out the power going into the blower and nothing was there. I then found the inline fuse with the blue wires that everyone said to find and tested that, but I got no difference in the reading when testing the fan knob set at off, low, med or high. I actually found 3 different in line fuses and tested all of them but all read a full 12.00+ reading when using the multimeter. I did however find one that had a red wire and was actually missing a fuse and I couldn't find the other end of the wire so I couldn't test if it was the issue. I'm just trying to find a wire that varies its voltage when i turn the knob and also has an inline fuse. I really appreciate everyone's help so far. I've forgotten how much fun it is to tear apart cars! I'm finding the urge to tear this baby down more and more everyday. If you can all continue to help I would greatly appreciate it. I'm thinking I'll still be pulling out the center consol of the car to reall dig deep on where the wires are and what wires go to what parts. I have found other threads that outline how to do this, and I think it would be a great help. The hard part is, that when the SR20DET was swapped into my car, so were a lot of extra wires and its been a PIA to find the ones I need. haha

Ok, so rather then keep on going off-topic in the Honda Motor thread, I'd thought I'd jump in to my own and keep it simple. So, what I've done so far is to remove the AC system in the passenger footwell. (At least that is what I am hoping is the AC system hahah.) I unbolted everything and it pulled straight down and out. What's left is now just the blower and I found the power and ground wires. So . . . Ignition turned to on and knob turned to HIGH, I tested at the motor and no juice was apparent. I then looked at where the wiring went and found that it when to a cable above the motor that had about 3 other wires going into it. This cable then connected to another cable that seemed to go from the passenger side all the way over to the driver side. I'm trying to follow the wires from there but its getting pretty hard with all the crazy things going on! I think I'm going to try running a wire straight from the battery pos and neg, to the pos and neg on the blower. That way I can see even if the motor is working. If yes, I'll then just run an inline switch to have the fan running at full power when needed. The question I have now . . . will this cause any issues? I mean, I can run it over the ignition wire, but why? I mean, I think I'll be able to "hear" my blower running and know that the switch needs to be turned off before turning off my car. Is running a wire directly from my battery to my blower going to cause any longevity issues? Is it to much power? for the blower to handle? By the way, this will just be temporary until I pull out the entire dash to re-do the problems it is having, along with all the gauges I want to put in. So, I'm guessing it will only be used like this for about 1 - 2 years.

That would be GREAT! Anything other then what we have right now would be GREAT!

I found the blue wire with the in-line fuse. I will test out the cord tonight to see if it gets any power at all. Does the fuse have to be in the in-line fuse holder in order for me to test it? Or can I just touch the tester to the wires with the fuse out, power on and knob turned to test it out?

do you know how much the classes cost? Also, how many of them are there? Its about a hour drive for me, but I'd be willing to do it if its worth the $$ and time.

I'm trying to get a friend to teach me, but he's slacking on it. I'm thinking about a CC, but none of them around me teach this. I'd have to drive an hour to get to somewhere that does.

does anyone know of any welding classes that I can take to teach me how to weld in some roll cages, strut bars, etc? I'm looking to weld in new frame rails, a roll bar, strut tower bracings . . . etc etc. I'm located in mission viejo,CA and am willing to drive to learn. If anyone knows of any good schools/classes close to my area I would greatly appriciate it. I would rather goto a place that has good reviews than just pick one on the net.

plus I have to buy all the stuff . . . man I'm poor!

I went to look last night and found that few of the ports on the gas tank are REALLY hard to get to without dropping it, so I'm going to just wait until I'm ready for that stage, and just do the complete restoration of the gas tank. No reason not to. It may be an extra week or two, but it should be worth it in the end.

I actually no longer even have that line supposedly. I did the SR20DET swap and I think that line has been removed or capped off. I will find out later tonight I guess. What can I use to cap off the gas tank ends? Would it work if I was to just use the JB weld method that was described in that thread? Just take a metal fitting, put it over the pipe and JB WELD the fitting onto the pipe?

Did you just remove the evap tank? If so, what lines did you close off? I may just re-do the entire gas tank, but I live in a condo and it would be a @#$% to do. I would just like to remove the evap tank, close up the lines that need to be closed, and then be happy for the next few years until I have my own house.

How much would this cost to do? I'm soo poor right now its scary. I'm spending a lot on new frame rails, and also on suspension, etc . . . Your help is GREATLY appreciated by the way!

So, I'm slowly taking my car apart to start leaning and I came across this while tearing up the panels in the rear end of my car. So I'm guessing this is the Evap tank that everyone is talking about? Now, I want to remove this to help with getting rid of the nasty gas smell that has been apparent in my car for some time. What does removing this do to my car? Will it cause any issues at all? I'm still running the stock gas tank, and plan to for a very long time. Now, the last one shows the tube going down on the driver side and i followed it and it went into the gas tank. I think that this is the only line that touches the gas tank and that is what I am wondering. Can I just remove the evap tank, and all the lines connected to it? Then, just plug up any holes that need to be plugged up? I also noticed that there is a line from the evap tank to the rubber gas tank fill tube inside the car (3rd picture), can that just be plugged up as well? Any help is greatly appriciated.

anyone?

Well I looked at the fuse and it is fine. I tested the red wire into the motor and it had no power running to it at all when I had the car on and the knob turned to HIGH. (or any setting for that matter.) I was wondering if there was some way of me being able to rig a new switch that ran from the battery to the motor. Could I just get some normal switch from an auto parts store that I could run in-line with the motor that would allow me to bypass the stock knob (since its a PIA to remove the center console and all the wires and so forth.) ?

Z's : Hey man! I was wondering if you still do the turn signal switch rebuild? I am starting to notice my turn signal is not contacting anymore and I have to hold it down in order for it to work Also, I will look into the wire tonight. Hopefully I can finally get this damn blower blowing.

Can anyone validate that it is a blue wire? I think I may have already found the wire and inline fuse earlier. Also, what's the rating on the fuse?

Well, I'll be digging under there tonight. Hopefully I can find something that looks like an inline fuse! Its not hot yet, and to tell you the truth my Z will probably not see the road for at least 2 more months, but ya . . . Its nice to know it will have airflow when I need it.

@ZCCOR : I have checked all the fuses allready and they are all in good condition. (In fact, I replaced them all with brand new fuses a few weeks ago.) I do not have a light tester but I do have a voltage checker, that has the red and black wires and gives off a numerical reading. I'm guessing that this will work for what I am going to be doing. If there is a reading coming off the HOT wire to the blower motor, what's the next step for testing the fan knob on my dash? I hope it doesn't require me to tear apart my dash to test . . . I seriously don't want to go that far, but If its required then its required haha.

any chance you had some pictures of this? I have having these exact issues with the passenger window right now

Hey guys, I was wondering if there is a simple way of testing your blower motor while in the car. I have a 73' 240Z and I would really like to be able to test out my motor to see if my motor is working or if my fan knob is actually just broken. I'm not the best with electronics but I'm hoping someone here has some insight that might make this test easy for me, so I can go ahead and replace my blower if the knob is working. If it isn't . . . then I'll just have to wait till I can find someone with a little more know-how then myself. :stupid:

I think this is what's wrong with my car right now. I get a slight wobble left to right in my streering wheel when driving on the freeway. I had new rotors and pads put on a while ago and ever since then it has been happening. It may just be because of the rotors somehow warping, but I want to check out the bearings. How can I check to see if they are set right?

could you like the original thread for this modification? I'm thinking of tackling this on as soon as I can.

thank you very much. I will be installing my new radio tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully all goes well.

johnny, was wondering if you could comment on what wires did what? I am purchasing a new headunit soon, and wanted to make sure my installation goes smoothly. If you could give me your wiring setup . . . Ie. Red = 12V Constant . . . that would be SOO HELPFUL!!! I have a 73 240z and i took out the radio today and it has the yellow wire (Which i believe is the ignition wire ) and then about 5 or 6 wires that go into this prong thing that connects to a female connect from the stereo. My antenna is also a switch antenna and i will be just moving the switch to the side of the headunit. Please any help would be a big one!