New-to-240z

I'll be checking with both of them tomorrow. I actually also need the push pin to keep that piece in place. When I took the old one off my lock, it flew into the world of nothingness that is my garage. . . I literally spent 1 hour searching for a needle in the haystack. Mont : If you find the piece let me know. No rush, waiting on the plates from taiwan before i actually install the locks. I swear, its the little things that seem to get you every time you start this process.

Hey guys. So I'm putting my Z back together and I am at a hard spot. I have both the original door locks, but I'm missing one piece on one of them. You can see it in the picture below. Now, I know I can purchase a new set of locks, and it will have the same part, but I was hoping someone here MIGHT have one just laying around. . .

Sorry guys. Been crazy busy with work and the girl. I'm also trying to figure out what rims to finally throw on her. :-) I'll be trying out a few things this weekend. Also, prob talk to MSA about the issue and see what they have to say.

I will try this tonight on one of the doors and will take pictures as well. Thank you for the detailed instructions! To everyone else, I am just trying to stick with the MSA WS because its already on, and I paid $$ for them. If, in the end, I can't get the damn doors to close correctly I'll return them to MSA (if they are willing to take them back) and buy me some Kia Sportage WS.

I that is what I was thinking of doing. I was actually thinking of adding some 'shims' on the hinges to bring the door out a little to allow the back to pull in further before the front of teh door starts touching the WS. If anyone is out here in CA (Mission Viejo / Orange ) I would love to troubleshoot!

@LeonV : I will look into that when I get home, but the rear of the door isn't even coming in to contact with the weathstripping.

Well, its my turn to get upset at these new weatherstrip replacements from MSA. The install went fine, everything fit perfectly. But when I go to shut the door, it has to be slammed in order for the lock to click. Even then, the actual rear of the door is pushed out a good .5 inch. I also notice that the rear of the door isn't even touching the weatherstrip. It seems that the front of the door (where the hinges are) is touching the weatherstripping and is soooo tight, that is isn't allowing the rear of the door to close correctly. I read on here from another thread "Door Slamming Issue Solved FINALLY" that I might need to shim the hinges. Will this resolve my problems? When the WS is off, the door has no problem closing at all, and lines up perfect with the gaps. As soo as the damn WS gets installed, it barely closes at all. I'll have some pictures tonight, but would really like your help!! Anyone?

I like that idea! I'll be using it for sure!!! :-) Do I have the correct fitment for the top outer tho? Does my picture show it the way it should be attached/setup?

I've moved to the rear hatch with my weathstrip project. I bought the MSA weatherstrip and I want to be sure that I am putting this stuff on correctly. I have put some pictures in here to help what I'm trying to do . . This one shows the actual top outer piece from MSA. It has a circle running around the entire thing. And it has 2 places where you COULD put the stitch welding into. Here I show putting the skinnier but stronger/grippier part of the weatherstrip onto the stitch weld. This feels right, but I just want to be sure before I put on the cement to hold it. Here is the outer WS that goes on the same seam as the previous one, but it just runs from the bottom up to the previous one. I feel like the pinched part should be put on the stitch weld, and the longer part should point towards the actual fender to create a sort of 'channel' for the water to flow down. Finally you have the inner WS. This has a flap that seems to grip to the stitch weld. I just want to make sure that I have it on correct. You can see my finger moving the flap outward in this pic. Here I've put in on with the flap on the stitch, with the rest pointing OUT towards the fender. Final question, what is the best way to put this on? Should I run a bead along the stitch weld, and then open the flap and put it down? (Having two people do this, one on the right and one on the left) hold it there for 10 minutes, and then close the rear hatch and let sit for a day or two? Again EVERYONE, thank you for your help. I hope this thread helps other people in some way.

Thank you geezer. I'll see what kind of sample they are willing to give. I'll ask if the lubricant has any affect on clear coats/paint.

Hey geezer! Looked at that site and they only have it in gallons (I really only need it for this one thing. I also searched the net for Isopar, but found nothing related to mopar parts. I can grab that food grade silicon from amazon, but I'm afraid that it might cause damage to the new paint. I just spent an arm and a leg getting it painted, I want to be sure it doesn't damage it. But, I was also wondering . . . what would be a good way to heat up the rubber? Maybe putting it in the oven at the lowest temp possible? Or using a hair dryer on it for a few minutes?

Now that is a good idea!! I'll try that out next. I'll grab some dishwasher soap, a spray bottle, and go to town on them. As a side note, I just had the car painted about 3 weeks ago. Do I have to worry about the dishwasher soap? Should I bite the bullet and get some food grade silicone? Would this work . . ? Petrol-Gel Lubricant, 4 oz Tube

E, thanks for the helpful words. I really do appreciate it. I would also REALLY appreciate it if you could give me some help with installing the quarter window. I had one hell of a time getting the gasket to stay in place and now I can't for the life of me, figure out why I can't get them to go back in. I tried installing them without the gasket, and they fit perfectly. Any tips on getting them back in place? They're holding me up from moving forward with the rest of the door gasket. Do I even have it on right?

nope, you were right E. :-( I went back and found that I i got them mixed up. It was my fault, I should have called it a night instead of getting upset and trying and trying to get it to fit. Went and looked the next day and BAM. Found the right part. This one is actually a little long now (like an extra 0.5 - 1.0" so I'll be trimming it up.

I think you a talking about INNER seal. I had the same problem, but just used a little soapy water and it was much easier. I have the glass seated correctly in the inner seal, along with the screw holes that hold the actual frame together. But, I'm talking about the OUTER gasket that goes around the quarter window frame that presses against the body of the Z.

So, I bought MSA's full Weatherstrip package for the 240Z. I'm replacing the 1/4 window gaskets and everything has gone smooth so far, except for one thing . . . the outer gasket for the window is WAY TO SHORT. If I were to STREATCH the hell out of it, it might actually fit, but I don't think weatherstrip cement or adhesive will hold it there. Has anyone else noticed this? I am amazed at this! so far, everything else has been fitting with no issues. Anyone have any idea on what is happening? I'll take some pictures today when I get home.

ahh, thank you

I love this community. I never even though about powder coating! I tried simple green with a sonic-care tooth brush and then the de-greaser that comes from oranges, and then I tried ACTUAL degreaser but nothing seemed to work. I'll prob take the route of having someone just re-finish them for me in a nice powder coat to keep the durability. Again, EVERYONE thank you for your insights. I'll post pictures up when done!

Hey guys! I'm finally get the Z painted and I'm doing some things in the meantime. I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction on how to refinish/restore the aluminum kick/threshold plate for my 73' 240Z. This is the plate that is at the bottom of the door on both sides and says "Datsun". I don't have any bench tools or anything, so simple would be best I have tried simple green and a scotch bright pad with no luck. I would REALLY like them to shine tho, so if I can't do that with simple tools, does anyone know a place that could do it for me on the cheap? I'm in Orange County, CA :-) Much appreciated!

no pictures?

Just wanted to throw out that I have a complete 240Z rear subframe in great condition for sale. Its on our classifieds and has some extras on it. Check it out. I'd rather someone from here grab it then have to post it over at hybridZ forums. Let me know if you have any questions . . If this isn't ok I'll just remove it right away. Just felt like I should post it here to let everyone know.

Thanks everyone, I'll be tackling this today. I'll hopefully be able to get it to come out without breaking anything.

Was wondering how the front hood emblem is attached? I am going to be roller painting my car soon and wanted to remove this, but add it later (i know I can buy a new one . . . but DAMN they are expensive!) Can I just heat it up and remove it or is it clipped in? How would one unclip it? Thanks in advance guys (and girls!)

bust, I'm in irvine/mission viejo area. Too far for me.

I'm going to dig deeper today on this and see what I can find. I'm so tired of running back and forth from my condo to my garage that I'm buying a damn laptop today or tomorrow to stop this waste of time haha