JSM

Keep in mind that does not guarantee that the EGR valve is not stuck.

I was wondering about that myself!!

I'm running out of ideas for things to check. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Are you sure the intake/exhaust gasket is good? Torn /hole / crack in the AFM to TB boot? Check valve is good to the brake booster? What is vacuum reading when you can get it to idle? Not to beat a dead horse but when you did the plug wires you said you did that one at a time, but maybe the Original owner did them wrong. So to confirm yours looks like this:

Also was the AFM you replaced another used one or a rebuilt one?

Oh that's another good point. Have you checked your valve clearance yet?

^^^ you beat me to it!! Not a knock on you as I have done this, are you 110% sure your plug wires are on the right cylinders? Also curious if it runs better at least at idle with the AFM u plugged? Seems like the only thing that you haven't swapped is the ECU? What is the number on your ECU?

Have you adjusted the throttle body screw to increase the idle once it warms up to help to see if it would run ok once warmed up? Also have you unplugged the cold start valve and tried?

That was nice.

Anyone doing this? I was very intent on giving it a shot until I found out the price. I said come on honey, what's $32K for just the entry fee. She shot that down very quickly! Anybody feeling generous! I'll be 50 in 2019 and my plan was to drive cross country in a Z, so I figured this would be 1 year early and some fun to boot! http://www.endurorally.com/pages/trans-america-2018-news

Bead blasting came out pretty nice. If you want that I guess I could do it for a bit extra.

3 screw SU parts carb. Missing float and adjustment screw ($30.00) 72- 73 center console fuse box cover defrost switch / seat belt / choke - Light harness included just not in pic ($50.00) 72- 73 center console fuse box cover defrost switch / choke ($60.00) Jack tool kit (SOLD) 70-73 Heater control valve NOS (SOLD) Prices do not include shipping.

I wonder what that bill was! My son ran off the road and took out a light pole. $6K for a light pole. If I would have known that I would have went and grabbed it for scrap since it was all aluminum! i was not happy! I'm just glad he was alright and no one else was involved.

Any luck?

Sean did you post the link?

Sounds great. Can you tell me if both inlet and out are on center or just the inlet? Is yours this one? https://www.borla.com/products/proxs_muffler_part__40659.html

You never mentioned price? I'll be sitting for the next 6 hours or so, so I should be alright!

Ah, no worries. I may be a little off on the exact dates anyway! I just saw this and went wait, mine is a 71 with a black and yours is 71 with a silver, what gives!

I noticed the ignition lock was Silver on this car? I thought the larger black locks came on the 70-71 and then in 72 they switched to the smaller locks due to using the smaller diameter steering column? At least my 71 has the black ignition lock on it. Just curious.

You follow Bigphill on YouTube and all his shenanigans? He has 280z rb30 I believe. Hybrid is a great site, just search first. Oddly google is better to find hybridz info. Good luck!

On a side note, if you download the wiring diagram from Atlantic, throw it on a jump drive, run to FedEx office and they can print it out. Took less than 5 minutes and cost $8. Made life so much easier.

Interested in a sound clip when done! What do those go for? Is that entirely stainless?

Also does your tach bounce a little when cranking? Also did you check power is getting to the dropping resistors? It looks like each plug gets power from the EFI relay (Pin 43). http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.pdf

Thank you Steve. I am a dumbass. It was staring at me the whole time. I was counting the pins with the plug upside down! Not to mention the PO had positive and negative wires flipped on the coil which further compounded issues. I got it to run unhooked from the car!

Yeah you might want to swap it or check first if it is there. Just be careful when removing the bolts. Sometimes they can be finicky. If it starts to get hard to remove add a little lube and then tighten them back down. Then loosen them again. Nothing worse then a broken thermostat housing and even worse a broke bolt going into the head! (You don't have to remove the housing from the head,just the cover. That's just an FYI. )

Is 160 right in the middle on your stock gauge? I would wait until summer comes and see if it moves up. With the fans off are you constantly driving or sitting at idle? Also you have no stock fan? If you have a stock fan and the electrics both it may be too much. 60 degrees is rather cool.