Travel'n Man

Just wanted to catch everybody up on this install Power band and torque is fantastic - no real heavy fuel smell as I have heard in the past with triples - sound is excellent - fairly quiet until you get on it and then that beautiful sound of air and exhaust. Highly recommended for anybody that is looking to grab some more HP and Torque out of their engine. Much more power than the SU's had but this is a step up from SU's and should have more power IMO. Set up: Mikuni 40mm Triples Mikuni Air Horns 50mm long / 80mm dia. Custom Stack Filters Mikuni Manifold Carter Fuel Pump: P4070 (a little loud) Holley Fuel Regulator: 12-804 Fuel Pressure Gauge: 2178 Inline Glass Fuel Filter Fuel Line: 8mm or 5/16th Fuel Pump Plate Pertronix Ignition 3.0 ohms Coil Triple Fuel Rail from Japan Heat Shield from Japan Heat Barrier: Thermo Tec-13575 Lokar Throttle Kit: LOK-TC-1000U K&N Filters Breathers - Fuel Pump Cut-Out Switch w/relay Manifold Gasket Timing Set @ 12-14degree at 1000 RPM just to get a base setting - final setting was 36 degree at 3000 RPM No vacuum advance Spark Plug gap set @ .45 Fuel Pressure at 3 PSI

Leonard your project is looking outstanding! Stunning work as always for ZT!!...........just a thought here, on my engine rebuild last year I send my header to JetHot and had it coated. It will help protect it from rust and reduce heat for those carbs as well. If I remember correctly it was right around $200 give or take. I also had the heat shield done as well - I believe it was $35.....just a thought while I was looking at those beautiful shiny carbs! http://www.jet-hot.com/

My '73 back in '79 was white with a red interior.....damn I miss that car. Great color.......looks sharp!!

Lokar Kit installed

Just wanted to pull up this thread to say that I completed a Lokar Universal Throttle Kit (LOK-TC-1000U) $36.95 install and all my slop from the linkage is gone as well as the throttle surge. I had to remove the accelerator pedal (3 screws) and drill out the linkage ball at the end. Connect one end of the Lokar kit. I used two washers to fill in the hole at the firewall. Dismantled the Lokar kit and pulled the cable all the way out - double checked my measurement and made my cuts - connected the end linkage to my carbs (make sure your carb linkage will marry). Make sure you have your cable end all the way in before you cut your cable or your cable will unravel a little bit (it makes for a cleaner job). You will need to add a support to keep things lined up and to give the throttle cable a support post. There are several fine tune adjustments to get your throttle cable snug but not too tight. It really ends up being a clean looking job. Time is approx 30 minutes. I'm keeping all my linkage and will put in storage.

Check out post #22 - you may need more decals for the different years on the wheel weight.......... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?35809-Post-Your-Original-Decal-Pictures-Here&highlight=datsun+decal

I'll take the wheel weight one for a "72.......let me know once available.

Wow!! I've heard my SU's for the past several years - I heard the sound of Mikuni's tonight!! FANTASTIC is all I can say!! If you have thought about it.......do it!! Finalizing timing - idle and air tomorrow...........I'm really fired up!! I had to go back to regular fuel line instead of the black braided - a lot of fuel line leaks - correct pressure at 3psi. Marty - Yes - the air horns do have actual filters on them - I would not want to drive on a dirt or gravel road - nor do I plan on it. Check out my garage - the engine is detailed there........N42 Block Damn - this is going to be exciting!

Hopefully install will be finalized tomorrow evening - stay tuned for pictures............... Ended up using a Lokar Throttle Kit that is really much superior to the current linkage. The intake manifold ended up being pretty short and does not give much room to complete the install due to barely having enough room to bolt the intake on. Removed the current bolts and replace with shortened studs. Fuel pump mounted good - inertia switch with relay - fuel pressure regulator. Pressurized the system this evening and fuel lines leaked using the original Datsun fuel clamps. Moving to EFI clamps and may have to change to standard fuel lines instead of the braided fuel line from Canada.

I can't believe I just wasted 15 minutes on reading this nonsense. Come on people - don't wine because you don't have enough common sense to price shop if you need to save every penny you have.............MSA has sourced more items than I could have possibly found for my car and their knowledge on their parts back up their price to most of us........please.......shop somewhere else so we do not have to listen to this needless bashing.

If you take the tank to have it boiled do not let them pressurize it and expand it - I took one to a shop in Charlotte NC a few years back and somehow they expanded the thing like a balloon....naturally it would not fit under the rear hatch any more and had to buy another one........by the time it was all finished I had several hundered $$ in that tank - best of luck. While it is out change all those fuel lines (you'll be glad you did!!).

Jeff - If your car has been sitting for several years there is a good bet that your current carbs are all gummed up (unless you used Seafoam or another product to keep the fuel in a liquid state). I'm sure those carbs will need to come off and cleaned and gone through completely, and have the set up edited to work with your engine............Arnie is right IMO - with a stock L24 your 44's have overcarb'd for your engine size. I'm sure a set of nice SU's would work great or get those Mikuni's in somebodys hands that can re-work them with the correct jets and chokes that can maximize your current engine set up. Call Todd at WolfCreek Racing and discuss with him. He can steer you in the right direction if the 44's can work for your driving style and current engine set up.

Send me a picture and PM me an amount you want for your 44's.......

I'm sure some basic knowledge of carbs is needed for any basic set up / tune, whether it is SU's, Webers, or Triples..............have you tried Todd at WolfCreek Racing for a rebuild?? Do you know your current set up on the Mikuni's? What do your plugs look like? If you gave up the "fun of driving" it may be good that your carb guy moved away - he may have been the problem - not the solution............ ..........post some pictures and details when you get a chance. We all like lots of pictures!!

Pull the tank - it's not very difficult - drain the gas and go for it - an inspection will answer a lot of questions................then when it is out - change those hoses if needed.

I have never picked up any color on my clay - I'm sure there are different quality and weights out there - this is my preferred brand for all my cars - free shipping for spring! http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/car+polishing/paint+cleaning+clay/paint+clay+%26+speed+shine+kit.do

Glad everybody is OK - could have been a lot worse. I would have that neck looked at and recorded with an doctors visit - need to get that stuff documented. My buddy was sitting at an intersection - got AZZ ended and then pushed into incoming traffic and get front ended - 1966 Cobra - he was OK but still having neck challanges - car was totaled. He hand built the kit and all engine and trans. People need to pay more attention to their driving!!

Brian- Call Dave Rebello and discuss head work with him Call Todd Walrich at Wolf Creek Racing and discuss Mikuni's with him These two guys are the best at what they do and will share their knowledge with you and maybe even sell you something in the process! http://www.rebelloracing.com/ http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/

Andrew - Welcome!! Get ready for a great ride!!

Rich - From my understanding talking to Todd at Wolf Racing and Dave at Rebello's they should generate around 40 additional horsepower - my engine output should be close to 270 horsepower with the engine rebuild from last year and the head work from Rebello's. I could have pulled some more horsepower out of it but really no need since my intentions are not to track this car. A different intake manifold would have gotten my closer to 300hp. At some point I will dyno it but just so my plugs are looking good once I get the install done I'm really happy where I am currently. Next years project will be a 5 speed / r200 / upgraded half shafts. Hopefully to have this finished up over the weekend - it should just take a couple of hours to get everything hooked up and sync'd.

Mothers Power Cone is worth every penny - you may think that it will not hold up to a drill but be ready to be surprised!! This is a great item to use along with a good alum polish. I still use wet sandpaper with different steps but this will put that final shine on it..........outstanding item along with your power drill! http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05146.html

Heat Shield was a breeze to attach - very supportive and raised edge all the way around to add support to the vibration and heat. I am adding a heat barrier to the underside that reflects heat up to 2000 degree at 90% - gotta keep the fuel cool!

Mike - Todd at Wolf Creek Racing could not get the heat shield or the fuel rail. I had to hook up with a guy from Japan to buy and ship it to me. There is a source for the heat shield but I could not find the 3 barb fuel rail anywhere in the states at all.

Welcome - get ready for a great ride!!

Yea - I know what you mean - I told my wife "I'm going to buy a set of Mikuni's for the Datsun - and she said OK...............how much - I told her and she said OK.................what the hell?? I know I'm getting set up for something!!