mgood

I am thinking of going up on Tuesday morning (wishing for no rain) and getting there for the car show around 8:30 or 9. I will be going up 79N to 80W from Pittsburgh. This will be the longest drive for the car in over 30 years.

I think it depends on the state and how they see it. I think most see it as when it was sold and when the company determined when they classify the car for a given year.

Mikewags, nice looking car, and a great location for pictures. I was looking at the number for your car #282,503, mine is 281,114 and my car was made in 11/75 and is considered a 1976 in then state of Pennsylvania. How can yours be made after mine and considered a 1975?

I had my car Ziebart back in 1976 when I purchased it, the sticker is still on the back bumper. The stuff does get hard and hard to remove when it's that old. I used WD40 on mine. Spray it on and let it set then use cloth or soft putty knife. I will take many applications of the stuff. I did my engine compartment 20 some years ago and it was a little easier because it was not fully hardened. After the WD40 I used Mothers wax remover to clean the residue off.

Nice car and great color. What color is it? Mine is 302 green is yours? Must be a late model 260 because it has 280 bumpers.

I have a 76 and there are 2 compartments behind the seats, one on each side, if those are the took compartments, then yes they are on the 75 and 76's, the car also has a full size spare tire. I don't know why they would raise the 77's deck, the inflatable spare is smaller.

As I recall the FM band started in the early 70's. My car is a 76 and has 3 am and 2 fm buttons. To change from am to fm just push the am or fm and dial to the station. I have a question, does any one have a picture of the back of the radio where the antana connects. Mine was cut for another radio that I put in the glove compartment and I would like to reattach it so both radios worked. thanks

I also like seeing another 280 in the club. I would keep the bumpers because they do come in handy for those small front and back bumps. They also say to others that it's a 280 and not a 240.

Thanks to all, that is what I am looking for.

I did a quick search and did fine some info. on the fuseable links for the 280, I was wondering if the parts could be purchased at a Nissan dealer and if any one knew the part numbers. I noticed this weekend that the plastic coating on the black one in my car is cracked not burnt just cracked. thanks,

I have created in my cars web site a place for all of the original owners of 280Z's (only 75,76,77,and 78). This is like the list of original owners of 240Z's that Carl Beck (hope you don't mind) has. I would like to see how many are out there. Pass the link on to other if you can think of any. To my cars site: http://photographictrends.com/zcar/index.html Straight to the cars listed and info. page: http://michaelgoodweddings.com/datsun/index.htm Thanks and I hope to further the growing information on the Z car.

TomoHawk, Yes, I wanted to over emphasize the shape, I have always liked the wide angle lens. I read someplace many years ago the the car industry in its early days use to have photographers use special lenses that elongated the cars for their advertising. This was to make them look sleeker.

26th-Z the flash is made for a Canon camera then it should work. I don't use TTL flashes because of the subject failure. That means that the flash will try to make dark colors middle gray and light colors middle gray, so you get over exposure on dark and under on light colors. I use a flash with a thirister for the exposure and shoot on manual.

There are small round plastic plugs (rivets) with a pin in the middle. Use something like a nail and push out the little plug and then lift the rivet out. Search for the little plug so you can reuse it later to put back the rivets. After all the rivets are out then lift out the panel.

Stopping action is all a mater of shutter speed. You can use a slower shutter speed if the action is approaching more direct on to your camera position. If the action is vertical to camera position the faster the speed the faster the shutter has to fire. So, a high asa or iso and a wider open f-stop to achieve the higher shutter speed (some cameras as high as 1/8000). Or, you could also use a flash (fire duration is around 1/5000) to help stop fast action, but then your are stuck at a flash sink of max on most cameras of 1/200 sec. with a 35mm type camera (film or digital). Now if your are using a medium format film or digital camera you can sink the shutter up to 1/500 sec. All 35mm type cameras film or digital react the same. The only difference with some is that they have a 1.X multiplier for the lenses, depending on the brand. I have a Canon 20D and it has a 1.6 multiplier and also a 5D and it is full frame, no multiplier. With the cameras that have the multiplier you need to remember that you need to multiply your lens mm by the multiplier to get the minimum shutter speed for a given focal length. Like this: lens of say 100mm with a multiplier of 1.6 would = a working lens of 160mm, this would result in a minimum of a 1/160 shutter speed to eliminate most all camera shake. This shutter speed might not stop the action though.

Arne the cars going to look great. Love the wheels (same as mine), make sure that they don't get primer over spray all over everything, it's a bear to get off after the final paint. I am still trying to get the primer over spray off after 25 years. Good luck with the reassemble.

The site you see is like a search engine site. It seems to take all the sites that loose their registration. I have seen many sites that have been shifted to a site that looks like that.

He doesn't have my paint color either, 76 - 280Z made in 11/75. Paint color #302 metallic green. My sticker does not say what type of paint was used either.

On my 76 - 280 there is a plate on the driver side in the engine bay by the master cylinder. It is held in place by 4 metal screws. The plate has the VIN number and the Engine number. There is also a plate riveted to the drivers side door post by the back wheel. This plate only has the VIN number. There are pictures on my web site in closeups.

Snag Point, I have had my car in the local chamber of commerce show the last 3 years. There are usually 350 cars in the show. The first 2 years I entered they took my voting bucket away because they said that Japanise cars did not qualify for voting, those years I was the only foreign car. Last year I was one of 9 foreign cars so they let people vote for a best in class for foreign cars, I lost to a 72 VW bug convertible that was totally restored. Aren't car show fun when you are the only one of a kind in the show, you get a lot of people looking and asking questions.

Here in rust belt USA (Pittsburgh), I haven't seen any 240, 260 or 280 on many years, I think it's kinda cool not seeing any other cars like mine. I do know of one guy that got one 2 years ago but I have not seen it on the road or at any of the car shows here.

I have a set of aluminum ones that bolt on to the hatch. I have had them on since the summer of 1977. The only problem I have had is that the center rib cracked in the middle. I have not had any problem with the louvers damaging the window because mine have a rubber strip on the center rib. You can see some shots of the louvers on my car at me web site.

I have seen it, the guy did a very nice job, and there are lots of pictures.

Those are the original keys, they match the one I have. My replacement key is a squared off key that was cut at the dealer using the code number on the original key.

When my car was less than 6mo. old (1976) and I was young, I out ran a mustang that wanted to race. This was going through Ohio on interstate 70. I got the speed up to 130 on the speedo, but it was shaking and shimming like it was going to fall apart. I was at that speed on the speedo for about 30 seconds. The mustang could not keep up. I don't think I would try it today, too old, me and the car.