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ctcurnes

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About ctcurnes

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  1. Mine came already set-up when it was imported it from Japan. 280zx strut, H&R coilover and camber adjusters in front. Cut springs in rear. Will second the rides like a** comment. Japanese roads must be a lot smoother than what we have here in the US. I'm eventually going custom SPAX set-up, but I want to track it now and then.
  2. Seems like famine currently. I'll let you know if I get ahold of one. I was thinking about measuring yours and going with a flaming river custom. With the amount of money I spent already, what another grand or two? Great progress, keep it up! Chris
  3. I'd be in for a group buy, if someone will help with shipping to the United States after the parts arrive.
  4. Brian, I would be interested in one of the firewall adapters as well. Also, any contact info for how to source a RHD rack would be helpful. The internet is letting me down on that one. Chris
  5. Did you get them off of Yahoo Japan or from one specific supplier? Would like to know where you got the alloy dash cover. Thanks, Chris
  6. Something to consider with the rack and pinion is the need to support the lower end of the steering column. On 280ZX box to rack swaps, you have to swap the steering column. There is a lower bearing in the rack column that is not needed when the steering column is attached to a steering box. Good to know the 280ZX is an almost straing bolt-in though. I was doing some measurements on mine and found many of the 280zx parts closer than sedan or coupe parts. I think the rear control arms are 280ZX compatable also, except for the shock mounts. Sounds like I need to get out to a junk yard and pull me a front suspension. I swapped in an L28ET, but had to modify the pan and oil pick-up. With a 280ZX crossmember, I could go back to the factory pan and pick-up as well as rack and pinion steering. My C110 already has the 280zx coil over strut conversion and Gabe at Techno Toy Tunning has a rear bolt-in coil over for the C110. Keep the build thead going. I am really interested in this swap. Chris
  7. Here is a response I got from Alan T. awhile back. Thought i would post it for the record. However, I'm afraid I can't help with the grill and rear panel colour. The factory just called this 'Black', but it certainly seems to have been a little bit more like a very dark gunmetal. I don't think its a straight satin / matt black at all, and something like a very dark Anthracite with a fair bit of matting agent would be closest. I can understand why you'd want to get it 'right' ( me too! ) but to be honest almost all the genuine C110 GT-Rs left in Japan these days have had that pesky black repainted at least once if not several times, so there's hardly any chance to see an 'original' finish colour anyway. Even if there was some original paint, it would have faded and sun bleached to hell by now anyway. Even the two KPGC110s in the Nissan Heritage Collection have been repainted. The red one with noticeably greyish grille and rear panel. The concensus amongst the guys I trust in Japan is that the original colour was a slightly greyish tint of black with a dull finish, and that there was no quoted factory code, and no 'Touch Up' paint quoted in the manuals. If I were you I'd go with something that is NOT just a straight matt / satin black, and give it a slight tinge of bronze or dark grey. It's not quite metallic, but it seems to have some kind of metallic sheen to it in certain lights. I just use BMW 'Anthracite' or Vauxhall / GM 'Anthracite' and use a lot of matting agent in the paint. If you spray it quite 'dry' it seems to help. If it's any consolation, I don't think anyone out there would have the confidence to tell you that it was 'wrong' anyway. You can see GT-Rs in Japan all lined up, and they all look like different colours in the sunlight....
  8. Flat or Semi-flat black seems to be the best match.
  9. Thanks for the offer. Next time you'er there, would you please pick it up for me. "Easier" depends on your resources and fabrication skill. Both are limited in my case, besides I would like to have the stock parts installed eventually. I have a lot of wiring, fuel and other odds and end to finish and who knows how long that will take, so I can afford to wait a little on the throttle. By the way, I swapped in an L28ET, that is why I need the new linkage. The shop in Japan removed all the linkages when they installed the tripple webers on the old L20E. Chris
  10. I am looking for the throttle linkage and bracket that mounts to the firewall for a 240K. I would like to get the throttle cable as well. The attached photo is what I am looking to buy. If anyone has one, please let me know. It will require posting to the United States (Zip Code 90503). Please let me know if you have one and price. Thanks, Chris
  11. The problem is how the engine sits more forward on the cross member than in a Z. Think front sump in our K's versus the rear sump Z's. Shown is a picture of Kent's cross member. You can clearly see how much the engine mounts are forward of the cross member. On the picture of the header in the link you posted, the near vertical pipe (cylinder 3) will hit the cross member and the steering linkage behind it on our K's. I have also included a photo showing the 240Z engine, header and relation to the engine mount/crossmember. The header you linked to will just clear the engine mount on a Z. There is a pretty good chance these headers would fit (the ones pictured in the engine bay shot), but I have no personal experiance with this. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC02/15-6001 Chris
  12. I think this is an artifact of the JDM market cars. I don't think the export market cars have this buzzer. I could be wrong. My GC111 has the same problem. I think it is part of the gauge cluster (Speedo). I have a gauge cluster from Austalia that I am swaping in. I will let you know once I do that if it takes care of the buzzer. Sorry I can't be more help, Chris
  13. Updated post #19. The blue one in San Diego was Matt's. If it is now a GTR clone, I would like to see pictures. Any more info?
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