obxtrainman

Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find a choke switch. I was putting my console back together last night, and one of the wires broke off. Since the two tabs used to secure the switch to assembly are already broken off, I thought I'd try to find a better condition one. The wires are hard and brittle anyway. Also theres not much room to make new solder connections on the tiny switch.

I'll take some pics. As for wether or not automatic, I don't know. I'll see if there is any info on original title. On the schematic, I did see something about a passing relay having b/y wire. What is the passing relay? Oh, yes, something else I can't figure out. On the firewall near the battery, there is a relay. It says made in france. It has a wire hooked to battery, one to a ground on frame, and apparently the one that would actually make something hot is not being used. As in no wire on the terminal. Thanx in advance for the help guys. obx

I noticed when I bought my '73Z that there were two wires not connected to anything in the small branch harness that hooks to the distributor. The black one that attaches to the side of the distributor and the coil is hooked up of course. My question is. What is the black/yellow, and the green one supposed to be doing? I've looked at the schematic. I see nothing that has both wires. I can only assume that one wire hooked to something, and the other was for something different. Any thoughts on this?

OOPS, I meant the module secured to the top of the combo switch. obx

I noticed the plastic cowl on steering wheel was warm the other day. I removed it to find that the short harness with the module secured to top of the iginition switch was heating up with the lights on. More specifically the green and white to the left rear of it. This wire has also been glued, repaired at the plastic connection plug. I know I need to trace the wiring to figure out where the short is, but still think this short harness should be replaced if possible. It is obvious from the solder connections on the module that it has been hot before. Still wondering if this was part of the cause, or result of the melt down a couple of weeks ago. Thanx in advance for any replies. OBX

I replaced mine yesterday. I had the same problem. They should be directional, one side is higher than other. I started on the passenger side. After seeing the huge gap, I unbolted the drivers side. After flipping over and around, I decided to go with what looked to best fit top bracket. After I tighten everything theres still a gap,,but not almost an inch. As for the steering coupler,,it is for many years of models. You have to change the metal sleeves to different holes depending on your model. I have a seventy- three. At first I thought it was a wrong coupling. Then after a little exaimanation, it was obvious to rotate the sleeves around to next holes. It was very easy compared to the rack bushings. Now that I've completely changed out all bushings for whole car,,new tires, new struts,,,,things have vastly improved. However I still have a vibrating steering wheel. Is it just because it is 35 year old technology,, or is there still a problem? Did I overtighten the steering coupler, and rack bushings. My spaces on the rack bushings ended up on top side. Where's did you fellas?

I have gotten the second new voltage regulator now. This one looks like old style, but is much lighter. I had told napa, I wanted the transistor style, like the one I have been using. I guess they just put it in a can to look like the old style. Anyway, the new one has the white wire cut off of it. It is obvious it was never hooked to the buss on the back. Does anyone know what the white wire went to on the old ones? All I know at this point is, that this one works, so far with no problems:nervous: Oh by the way, did I mention over the last week. The choke cable fried pretty badly. It's a wonder there was only minimal damage. The short harness connecting solenoid to main harness fried. Also melted side of fuse box where choke cable was laying across it without the fuse cover on it:dead: It is difficult to conclude what went first. I have a new choke cable from MSA on it's way. I also recieve my new ground kit from Courtesy Nissan yesterday.

I had the original title to my Z in my hands, I have a photocopy of it in my glove box. The original title says white. However, the engine compartment is silver, and she has a black interior. The very faded color code sticker is still there, I managed to make out a faded 901 on it. I can also see silver paint showing in a small spot under what appears to be two different white paint jobs. It appears the original owner had his heart set on a white car with a black interior. I can just picture dealer telling him to come back in a few days to get his white car.:devious:

I finally replaced the new voltage regulator with the old one,,car runs again. The new one shows signs of overheating on the back at the two resistor looking things. My fuel pump is getting it's hot lead straight from the altanator. I guess the voltage reg was getting hot and dropping out, thus dropping out the fuel pump. The reg I had taken off is skinny compared to the one NAPA sold me. The new one looks like the one in the pic of the Haynes Manual. NAPA is showing a skinny one labled "Transistor type" I'm still waiting on it to come in.

I've had the timing all over the place, anywhere from 5btdc to 25tdc,,I am still getting a miss or backfire:bunny: It seems like it was best closer to 10btdc. No matter how minute of adjustment, I still get a problem:mad:

One would think there must be a fairly good market for a company to make gas tanks for these cars. A year ago when I first bought my '73 240z I looked everywhere on the net for a new aftermarket tank. I saw very many different tanks for many classic models, '34 fords, 55 T-birds, vettes,,you name it, the tanks are out there. At very reasonable prices also. It seemed like most were a little over $100 to $150. Yet we are spending around $300 to have it refurbished by a professional at a radiator shop. Geez, you would think some fabricating shop would catch on and start making them. Why let a professional boil it, acid wash it, rinse it, line it, seal test it, paint it you may ask? Because I'm a firm believer in the fact that you can't beat a man at his own profession.

Could someone explain exactly what "ping" is. I have an idea, but somewhat uncertain. Thanx in advance for any replies. obx

At this point, I have changed the old distributor for the reman. The new one from BD auto is marked 612-53. The dwell is at about 38, the upside down V on the pulley is directly inverted at the 10 mark on the plate at the bottom of the engine. This is all within the RPM range suggested for a 1973 240Z with a manual tranny. It sounds great, and runs somewhat smoothly. However, as I hard accelerate going up through the gears, she misses a bit. Kind of a cough, or fart. I'm thinking at this point,,I need to tinker with the top adjustment.????????????/ Keeping in mind, the original carbs were swapped out for round top 4 screw carbs at some point. There is an actual plumbing cap on one of the old ECU ports. The old smog pump is gone, and most of the other components are removed, except for a dashpot on the top of the balance tube.:lick: There is no hose hooked to it. Ah, life is goodLOL

Carl, Once again, thanx for the help. I'm saying at this point in time, I have the vacuum advance disconnected. Should I set the time at the 10 degrees point on the plate? Don't assume I know what you are talking about. Yes, I believe the advance is stuck/ sticky/ ball bearings rusty. I bought a remain dizzy for this reason. Courtesy Nissan shows zero of the Vacuum advance assemblies across the board at this time. I believe I have gummy carbs, slightly bad timing, rusty gas tank, blocked off ECU parts incorrectly, oh yeah, and woman problems:smoke:

Told you I was a retard:stupid: I was looking at the 8 cylinder curv on my cheap actron dwell meter. You would think I could read an analog meter correctly since I'm an electrician. It is reminding me of when I was a novice elec using an old analog. I use an expensive digital these last several years. Anyway, I've got the dwell at about 38, and the timing set at the 10 just moments ago. That would be the ten mark on the plate at the bottom near the pulley. It ran good up to about 2500 rpm then backfired, or missed, stumbled with a fair crack out the muffler. I'm having fun with my new diagnostic tools:rambo: Still wide open for suggestions on putting in my new reman dizzy.

Thanx for the info Carl,, it is a great help. If you don't mind though, would you clarify one last thing? The 10 degrees BTDC everyone has talked about. Is that on the intial timing from below on the engine, or from the final adjustment from the top? The Haynes manual shows the Mark lining up on the large O on the plate,, it seems like it was the second point on the plate if I remember correctly. Would the reason I couldn't quite get to 35 on the dwell meter be from not being timed right, or maybe even bad tuning on the carbs? I had the points set at .019 then kept closing them down to get a higher dwell reading. I was reading around 25 before I closed them a little. I didn't mess with it yesterday. I had timed it once with the malfunctiong advance mech hooked up,,then I plugged it from wrong end. I have a reman dizzy setting on the work bench now. This Z has had the smog stuff removed also. Is it really nessassary to start at DTC if I'm careful to mark the placement of the rotor? The dizzy can only be put in one way, correct? So therefore, if the rotor doesn't turn, I don't see how it could be put in 180 degrees out.

I am most difinetly a novice here on the internal combustion engine. I can can swap parts with the best of 'em, but don't know much about the technical issues. I bought a dwell meter and timing light in hopes of learning to use them on my Z. I do have a couple of issues though. First, should I be testing dwell at a specific RPM? I can only get it up to about 33 on the meter, and that is with almost closing the points. I think my car is idling around 700 to 800. The meter says it is about 500. Secondly, There is the plate with the timing marks on front of engine. I have been loosening the 5/16, or is it 8mm bolt on the bottom of the dizzy to adjust time. What is the plate on fan side of dizzy with the marks and the A & D on it for? I'm assuming it the letters stand for retard and advance,, speaking of retards:stupid: I feel like one these days. I'm also assuming the more larger nut/#3 phillips screw head is for adjusting it. And lastly, should the advance be plugged off or not. There seemed to be some confusion on it. I read many, many pages in the search over the weekend. I'm more confused than ever now. I got her running again friday night,,best shes ran in the year I've had her. There was some of the rumble and backfire on deaccelaration though. I tried to pump out my tank yesterday, My rig would get the gas up to where I could see it,,then drop it back down. I'm really sure I have crud problem also. It had not ran for 12 days,,then ran like the ****ens,,then stir up the bottom with a hose,,now dying again.

Well at this point I was certain it is the tank. I had ran a test lead from coil to inside the drivers compartment. It stayed lit as the car died. I did this from both sides of the coil. By the way, I hadn't mentioned the car sounded louder right before it was dying. My friend told me that was a sign of running out of gas. Meanwhile I had decided to go ahead and change out some 34 year old parts anyway. While I was waiting on the coil and condencer to come in, I sprayed some gunk on the front of the engine, then hosed it off. I had the car started once after that. I then replaced the new coil and condencer,,now it turns over but won't start. I layed the old, conciderably larger coil on top of the new one and hooked it up. Still no start. While I was trying to put the the old condencer back on, the brass sqaure nut fell down inside of the dizzy. I ended up taking out the dizzy and shaking it to retrieve it. I payed attention as to not rotate the dizzy shaft. I reinstalled the old condencer,,and still no start. I now hear a click on the right side of the compartment. I was hearing a click next to right knee before all of this. Any suggestions???

Thanx for all the comments fellas. I believe EScanlon hit the bulls eye. I sucked on the vacuum hose on the vacuum advance assembly, and absolutely no movement occurs. It's stuck. I'll try to order one from courtesy Nissan today. OBX

I've been keeping the inline fuel filter element changed. I changed the one year old,,,,around three thousand miles on it, inline, electric , fuel pump earlier today.

After a year of driving, all at once my 240Z dies after I get her up to around 50 miles per hour:dead: It idles fine. It runs up through the gears a little low on power, but still runs. Then after I try to cruise in fourth gear,,,it dies:dead: It will start right back up, immediately. It will get me home at a lower speed. It will not run at a higher speed. I had just replaced the voltage regulator the night before this all started to happen. I wouldn't think this should be the problem. I can dump he clutch when it dies, and it starts back up. When I bought the car it had the problem of dying out. The owner had gone through many things/ He finally changed out the tank for a refurbished tank from out west. His mechanic had already gotten rid of the original electric pump near the tank. There is a new mechanical pump on the engine with no hoses hooked to it. There is an in line electric pump, and an in line glass filter. Is it electrical? Or filthy carbs???:stupid: Thanx for any help in advance:rambo: OBX

Hello all. I finally fixed the incorrect reading on my fuel gage. It wasn't electrical. I didn't have to bend the new sending unit either. At final count, the mechanic in training that swapped out the gas tank, had kinked vent hoses in three places. The kink that got it was from the top of the tank just over the sending unit. It appears he had misrouted two of the lines:finger:. He ran the afore mentioned line through the sleeve in the chassis, thus causing a serious kink in it. It took awhile, but persistence payed off.

Great job. You should be proud of your accomplishment, especially since your a teenager.

No harm incurred:) As a matter of fact, about 90% of the reactions I have received are the same,,. It just so happens, I have papers, I'm certified:). I'm extremely mistrusting, and as far as just plain dumb,,, I've been putting off taking the Mensa test for quite awhile. It just so happens, I've always felt the only way to learn how to drive was in a standard. After all, not so many years ago, all horseless carriages had manual transmissions. I've also been teaching her in my 5 speed, 4x4 Chevy . It is my belief that if one is trying to learn a new skill, they should actually learn the the skill. Not just bits and pieces of it. My reply to all the others that have been concerned about someone trying to learn in a sports car. "It only goes as fast as you put your foot down."