59ghia

Hello Z'ers In need of a front bumper and a rear center section for my '72. Front is completely mangled and rear center is severely rusted. If you have any of these please let me know! Thanks in advance, Dave

I'm in need of of a front bumper for my '72 daily driver. Mine is completely mangled. As long as it's straight I'll take it! You can leave me a pm and we can go frm there. Although my valance is thrashed, I saw you earlier post, I plan on getting a urethane dam. Might you also have a right sidenturn signal lamp and headlight extension? Thanks in advance, Dave

Dropped about an inch, they stiffen up pretty quick which I like. But still smooth on the freeway. Nice spring. Looks like the SHO will get them next!

Suspension rebuild complete!:classic: WOW what a difference!!! Its a 72 and now I "feel" the need for a rear bar. I don't want it to stiff so I'm always oversteering. What are your suggestions? How do the rear aftermarkets mount? From what I see they mount "backwards" She now has Eibach's ,Tokico non's, and poly bushings. I like to drive her hard on the twisties (3rd gear at 60mph) and feel the tail lifting on the inside a bit.

Just received my new poly bushings and there are no outside sleeves. I've read former threads and everybody seems to be cuttin', chislin' the old ones out. So can I assume the poly's don't require an outside sleeve? I have my own press so I'll get them out in one piece. Thanks Dave

Just picked up a set of Tokico's from a place called shox.com, great prices! 250 for a set of four, and the Eibach's were/are 209 my springs are on backorder.www.shox.com They don't post their prices on the web, you need to either call or get a quote.

Sounds like a fuel pump, maybe getting weak. You'll need a fuel pressure guage to check it. Unless someone knows a quick and dirty way.....

I think the later models had two rear struts on the hatch, correct?

How about a bent front or rear stub axle? I have no idea how to test this, maybe jack up one corner at a time, and spin the wheel? Put a dial indicator on outside of rim and spin? Or have a friend drive alongside of you and check the wheels at speed? Using cell phone in this situation helps communicate better. Just some ideas

Had the same problem, ended up using a monster puller. You may be able to rent one. Don't forget to put on a couple of lug nuts because when it pops it pops big time! Good luck! and don't forget after you get it off to clean the seating areas real well and apply some anti-sieze Dave

Phew..... They had me mixed up with my brother!!

I have no idea how long this has been a problem, when the guy gave me the car he said it had been doing this for awile. When I changed the fluid prior to putting the car on the road it came out kinda thick, as in pudding! Well the first few ounces came out like real 80wt, the rest I had to scoop out! I guess I should have assumed at this point I could expect problems. I'll drop the rear end this weekend replace all the bushings and see whats up. If I'm lucky I'll be ok with the side bearings and seals. So you say a slide hammer is all I need to pull these? Is the inner race a press fit on the axle stub? (inboard). Thanks again, Dave

2many, The play is not rotating play, ie if i grab the inboard u-joint and twist, i get movement. But when i grab that same inboard u-joint and move up and down, or horizontally I get movement. Does that make sense? If i move it up the gap on top gets smaller and the gap down low gets larger. I will definatly go-ahead and pull that rear inspection plate and investigate deeper. Thanks for the input! Dave

I have a clunk, Its coming from the diff where the axle bolts to the diff itself. If I grab the axle theres alot of play where it goes into the diff. I was looking thru my VB catalog and noticed they sell a diff bearing race and seals. I believe these are the culprit. Is this bearing race a complete bearing? Has anybody replaced these? Any tips or tricks to doing this? Its not the u-joints. Thanks Dave p.s its a '72 w/r180

Fellow Zers Gotta check out this ride on e-bay! I've been building engines for awile, ok, mostly VW's. So now that I've got a Z thing go'in on I enjoy see'in how others have built their rides. So, is this old school or what! Stock mainfold, and a turbo drawin thru an SU! Sorry no link, couldn't paste it in there Item #1834420797

Try pluging the "good" light into the "bad" socket first. When you ran the 9 volt battery you may have been checking the Hi beam filament.

I'm running the petronix, It's used in place of points and condensor, and all of it fits under distrib cap. Not sure what the MSD's purpose in life is, but the petronix alone, with a high voltage coil, should be enough. Hope this helps.......

2many, eric I'd go for the front spoiler, let me know Dave

Sounds like Nissan had a factory 180 lsd. What year cars had them? Thanx Dave

Hello fellow Zers, My front carb throttle shaft seems to be hanging up. I've disassembled and cleaned all the pivot points but the problem is still there. What kind of grease do you use? I've used a lithium based grease. Is there a way to lube throttle shafts without complete disassembly? These are on my 72 with round top su's. I've checked for vacuum leaks using Berrymans carb cleaner and none were detected. The throtlle shaft is snug with little or no play in them. If i blip the throttle in goes to normal idle speed, from around 1200 rpm. I know its the front because I can push down where the spring goes and it moves down. I tried swapping springs nothing. Any ideas? Thanx Dave

Just a thought, but you may want to check the upper bulb. It may be a two filament bulb, one for brake, on for turn signal. If you terminate the turn signal wire this may solve the problem. Just an idea worth trying before running new wires. Dave

Mike, When I installed the petronix I wanted to remove the plate but one screw wouldn't budge, the one thats kinda in a corner so i couldn't grab it with vice grips. I lubed the he!! out of everything, and went from there. The bushings are tight. I'll also give Daniels idea a try since its easy enough. 2many. the alternators new, old one had bad bearings and howled like crazy, not a sound you like to here when you first start a motor! Thanks-- Dave

Ran the vacuum test, still fm to me but I think I get the idea. Not real far off considering its got 100k on it. No real funky readings but on hard accel the vacuum drops to around zero which indicates, according to Clymer, worn rings or diluted oil.--------- oils fine. But lets go to timeing chain, when I adjusted the valves I checked the chain, it seemed a little sloppy to me but when I checked the notches on the cam the slash was dead center to the groove and I think that means its not to bad. (should be to the left ?) Whatta think? new chain? I think I'll check the tensioner first, What should I look for?If so who has them cheap....errr inexpensive? Motorsport wants 85 for one.(chain) Ok enough ramblin' I need a beer!!!! Dave

I new I left something out, Running a petronix with a new 40k coil. Fresh wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Was thumbing through one of my manuals and saw info on vacuum diagnosis, always saw this as fm, but has pics of guages under varing conditions. I think I have a vacuum guage in the garage somewhere. I'll give that a shot and see what I come up with. I'll let ya'll know what I find.

Hello fellow Zer's Here's the scoop, stock 72, my baby pulls really well up to 4500 rpm then starts feeling "unbalanced" and does'nt pull as well. Seems it should be smooth up till redline or close to it. The carbs have been rebuilt, and are sync'ed spot on. timing is on, valves adjusted etc. Compression is alittle low (150 psi) but even between all 6. Car sat for 5 years before I got her, so I'm think'in maybey the valve springs have weakened? Here's another possible problem- whats the total advance of this distributor? I'm getting about 10 degrees when i rap the throttle, is this enough? Any ideas? Thanks Dave