beandip

I only had a comment  on the issue of the head bolts.  Always use new ones. As was so completely stated they are one use bolts.  I do recommend using copper coat on the head gasket and  IMPORTANTLY  use ARP torquing grease on  the bolts .  It makes a big difference.

I did this conversion in 2002 and have been using a electric pump from a RX-7 non injected car. Have never had any issues with vapor lock or any problem for that matter. I eliminated the mechanical pump, they act like a heat sink, and block off the opening. I have since changed engines to a F-54 with a P-79 head with cam and headers. No heat shield other that factory and again no problems. I used a simple tee into the block much smaller than the one pictured , attached the pressure switch to the side opening and the sending unit on the other. Looking at the area you cannot even see any difference from stock. I simply ran a couple of wires fron the pressure switch , right to the green wire comming from the pump on the passenger side . Cut the wire and connectec my new wires in line. This power sorce is fuesed , factory, with a inline 20 amp fuse between my splice and the power sorce. I can see no need for a relay, The pressure switch I use closes when the oil pressure reaches 7 psi. then the pump is activated. If you ever run out of gas, simply use a modern fuze with two male spade connecters , un plug your wires and bridge them with the fuze . Turn the key and fill the float bowls. I have had to do this only once. Even after winter there is enough gas in the carbs to start the engine. But if not I use the fuze. This makes it a simple and clean uncomplicated modificaton. Just take your oil sending unit with you to your parts store , tell the counter guy what you want to do so you will be buying the correct threded parts. This is about a $10.00 conversion . The RX pump is quiet too. $15.00 at the local u-pull-it. they make 4 1/2 psi. I cecked wtin ztherapy when I did this and Steve told me the limit pressure is 5 psi.

Hope this is helpful. All the best. Gary

One additional thing to think about is bump stops. Especially if you decide to lower the front end. The ones available now are urethane and not vary hard . So if you do bottom out it is not harsh. I lowered the front of my 240 just a little over 2'' cutting the coil springs. I needed to add adjustable camber pins to realign the camber. But that was vary easy to do. My car corners flat now and with no air dam even at above 100 the front does not feel light like it did before. I also lowered the rear a little so she sets about 3/8'' lower in front. Not wanting to steel the thread here , but since you are right there and may have the inclination....

All the best Gary

I don't know of a better place to post this , because I know many of you know Enrique on this site. He and I met through this vary site 13 years back and have been close friends since. Enrique has been ill for some time but lost the fight yesterday morning at 6:30 while being transported to the Hosp. His death was due to complications and was not expected and a shock to us all. I ask that you please remember him for his kindness and willing to pass on his wealth of knowledge. He was a vary intelligent man and a good friend. The whole Z Nissan community has lost a valuable asset and a positive spokesman .

beandip Gary

I have never had a over heating problem in my 240 but I have always made sure the coolant was up to date and clean. Even my ZX engine stayed cool with the old 240 radiator in traffic at 104* temps. Now I have gone to a 280 radiator and again no problems. As to the splash pan. I am running one on my 240 and what I found years ago when I ran without it and then with it. Is it helps move the air under the car. With our the pan the car was getting light in the front at speeds above 75 mph. Now with it she is good up to a 100 to 110. Now this is with no cross or head wind. Since I rarely drive at these speeds I never mounted a front air dam. Club members that have, claim that even the BRE style eliminates this lifting period. I can see why these pans were removed and not replaced by mechanics in the past because they can be a pain to work around when lubing the front steering rack.

Gary

If it were a vacuum leak that kept the engine from starting it would have to be massive. Also if it were a vacuum leak, with the choke full on it should still start.

If all is as you claim here, I haven't a clue what the noise could be. Especially since the valve cover was not removed or unbolted, or the Dist removed.

I just re read your post. you did remove the plug wires. Go back and make positive that the connections are correct If you switch two wires .. this could be it.

Jeff, for several years I was loaning these tools to Z drivers here on this web site. In fact I sent the drawings to Zhome and they have them on the site for down load. The first pullers were made of harden all thread but were not large enough . 3/4 Acme all thread offered at a machine supply is what you need. Especially if it is for repeated use. When you attach the adapter to the all thread do not weld it in place. This way this can easily be replaced. Always run a Die over the 12mm pin first. The outer shell that houses the all thread is only 1'' gas pipe with a large washer welded to one end so the all thread can stick out. Use a thrust bearing there and another washer and harden nut . If you build one with this materials it will work great. I have gone through several puller over the past 10+ years of sending them all over the USA to at least 80 owners. There have been a few tool failures but as the design was improved along the way this final design. is ''Bullet proof . I did not build these things just loaned them out. Another member here was the maker . He was lending them to members on hybredZ for a while. My last puller finely wore out and I can no longer get parts so I had to discontinue . By the way, using the puller you can save the old pin and reuse them.

Gary

Hi Mark, Just try this, Pull the choke to full on. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. The engine should fire right up. The clicking sound, could it be coming from under the dash on the passenger side. If so it is only the relays clicking when you turn the key.

Try this then let me know.

Gary

For those who have used a spindle pin removal tool, I have a few questions. First, did the tool work, and if so, how hard was it to get the pin out? Please give tool details as well. What worked well, and what could be improved? Did the tool have a bearing, greased washers, or ??? The reason I ask is that I'm about to make my own removal tool, but I want to build a better mouse trap, so to speak. Rather than using hardware store all-thread, I was considering buying acme thread rod to make the tool. I figure that 3/4" - 6 acme rod will make the tool much more efficient than standard threaded rod. A friend just loaned me a tool he bought online and it worked for him, but he said it was a real pain and the rod twisted under load. With a nice fat acme thread and a thrust bearing, the tool *should* be better and make pin removal a breeze.

I have only done the pin removal the hard way. After heating and beating, I cut the pins off and used a huge shop press to extract the center of the pins from the knuckles. It was a horrible job and rather dangerous. That was all long before anybody came up with the puller tool and I haven't had to remove any since, until now. I have two sets that I need to remove and I want to make it as easy as possible on myself. I like good quality tools that work well and last forever. I will try the tool I borrowed to do one set, but I am not impressed with the design and want to improve it for the future.

So, does the tool NEED to be better, or am I wasting my time? I figure that if I buy 6 feet of acme rod, acme nuts and some pipe, and I can make at least 5 tools and sell them to pay for my materials. The acme thread rod isn't cheap, but at about $25 per tool, I could make it work. I can get the standard threaded rod for only a few bucks, but if acme is the way to go, I want to do it right.

If I do decide to go this route, is there any interest in a ~ $25 removal tool?

For anyone that is interested in this thread. Greased washers instead of

using a bearing IS A WAIST OF TIME. Also pulling these pins is not always

possible , some are so rusted in place that a 20 ton press cannot remove

them. Out of the 80+ that were pulled with the pullers I had to loan. There

was only two that actually broke. A few just wore out. NOW The allthread

that you find at Home Depot or any of the centers like that , is NOT

HARDENED STEEL, and it will fail in short order. You will find that there is a

great deal of pressure pulling things out and you need to use quality materials

when building one. Find a machine supply store for the all thread and hardened nuts. The last pullers I had was so tuff that it would pull the end off the

pin before the puller would brake. Also use lots of grease on the threads. Plus after the wedge pin is removed use some PB Blaster and let it soak overnight.

the helps.

Gary

Been using Castrol GTX 10-30, but now that then engine is fully broken-in, I'm thinking of adding some ZDDP to protect my cam.

Alternately, I'm considering using a synthetic blend oil such as Royal Purple of Castrol Edge.

Have searched the archives and the web, but it's really hard to come to any real conclusions on what's best, because most of the information is dated...

So what oil or oil addditives are others using and what are your impressions?

I know this is a controversial topic, and apologize in advance if this turns into a food fight...

On your newly rebuilt engine , I personally would use synthetic and with it it is not necessary

to add the zink. I use Valvoline Racing because my engine has about 60k on it or I would be

using the synthetic. The Racing oil has ZDDP. If you want further info just ask a cam grinder.

Gary

currently working on rebuild of 73 240.

went out to purchase some new bumpers and other various pieces from a fella out of town, and was surprised to see alot of other items for sale in his garage also.

long story short, i purchased all he had that was for a 240z, one item of which was this new motor.

supposedly pulled from a 71, it looks incredibly clean, but has obviously had some work done to it.

here's the scoop. The motor has all that is common to a 71 l24, e88, dome top su's, no smog items, etc.

however, the block has been painted( orange), gaskets are obviously new, clutch looks like it has very few kilos on it also.

PO, says that that he found it in a 'barn find', car was rotten, but it looks like whoever stored the car had just finished a fresh rebuild shortly before putting it away.

PO says that it turned over fine and oil pressure came right up sharp, but that he didnt spend much more time on the engine.

decided to sell all datsun parts he had, as he was relocating to west coast.

so, to me the engine looks tip-top, ready to go. linkages are beuty, and everything looks great.

half of me say'drop it in the car and see what it runs like. the other half says do some minor pulling apart to at least see whats inside? i dream of finding some goodies like head-work or something, but who knows.

i dont have endless funds, as rebuild of unibody and various other parts of my car are soaking up vast dollares, so not sure

what i should do.

what would you people suggest? any ideas? or should i just drop it in and try it out.

hope i dont seem like a dummy here asking for opinions.

I would drop it in as is. One thing though, remove the valve cover and have look at the cam and all the parts. It should be vary clean if a fresh rebuild.

As easy as it is to remove the engine if it is NOT as you hoped I would just

install it. You should turn it over though first just to make sure it is not frozen

up. pull the plugs and put some ATF in the cylinders , about a half a tsp.each.

pour some oil over the cam and rockers prior to starting it if you do install it. And spin it on the starter without the plugs watching the cam and rockers to make sure none of the valves are stuck. Important for a engine that has set

like this for a long time. Once you have the engine running keep it running at about 1500 rpm while watching for overheating at the same time. Use your

fingers touching the head around the spark plugs area. Some times you can

get a air lock and over heat the head because the thermostat is surrounded

by air and the gauge doesn't register. If this happens just shut it off and let it

sit for 5 min. or so . the conducted heat will cause the stat or open.

I used the stainless carriage bolts along time ago but now have the euro in front. I second the

chrome company DENVER BUMPER WORKS! I shipped my rear bumper to them and they did

fantastic work. They were fast and vary easy to work with. Even with the shipping it was inline with having the work done locally Plus I had my bumper back and on the Z in less than 10 days!

$25.00 you will find is CHEEP the ones I was loaning out were selling on ebay for around

$100.00 . That is for the final design. Remember that to use polly bushings you must either

spread the control arm to allow for the extra length of the polly or cut the bushing down. You

can use the puller to spread the arm . Simply use two nuts and two washers . Insert the all

thread into the control arm and when it comes to the opening add a washer then a nut.

Continue inserting the all thread adding another nut then another washer. continue inserting

threaded shaft into the second half of the control arm. Now run the nuts out so the washers contact the two halves . Now measure the distance between the two halves. Tighten on a

nut and spread the opening 1/8'' ONLY. Now when you release the tension it will spring back

1/16'' . This is enough to allow the polly and all components to go together.

A couple of things. I STRONGLY advise NOT pulling the oil pan , unless it is leaking. If the engine has been cared for properly,

routine oil changes ect. There is no need to pull the pan. You can dislodge some things that have settled down to the pan and will just stay there and not cause any problem . But if you open the engine there is a good chance that you will have problems with

clogged oil passages. Why didn't you start the engine prior to this removal? This would have been the first thing you should have

done. Do clean everything on the outside of the engine and paint, the same with the engine bay. Paint the engine bay the same color as the body of the car. If you intend to make a color change in the future , do it now in the engine bay then you will save a ton of time and work later. If you want to add headers , this would be a great time to do so . I would replace the clutch and throw out bearing also and have the flywheel resurfaced. I didn't read all the posts to this thread so some of what I just said may have been said before. If the engine hasn't been run for years, pull the spark plugs and put some ATF in the cylinders. Just a

teaspoon full then turn the engine over using the crank nut on the front of the engine. Before you do start the engine pull the valve cover and pour oil over the cam and rockers. Before actually starting it with the plugs OUT , spin the engine on the starter and watch for any valves that may stick . Either open or closed. If all is good they fire it up. I have started engines that have been setting up to 15years with out a problem using this method.

Gary

Not long ago I helped a guy with his Z that sat for 12 years. Pulled the plugs and shot some ATF in the holes and let it set for over night. Changed the oil and filter , put it in gear and rocked it back and forth to turn the engine over. disconnected the fuel line at the filter up front and with fresh gas and good battery started it right up. If you do this hold the RPM to around 1200 or so and

watch the temp and oil pressure. Keep it running untill it is warmed up. Let it cool down and start it again. Now when we were

rocking the car to be sure it was not locked up and prior to start up, I removed the valve cover and watched for a any stuck valves. Do this also prior to installing the plugs and do turn the engine over with the starter.

You can rebuild your old clutch fan . The roar of the flex fan is obnoxiousness aside from the fact that they are dangerous on a

hi reving engine.

It's been a while since I have posted here.

The struts that I have are KYB G-2. I am vary satisfied with the ride. It is firm but not harsh, I also am running

Euro stage l springs that I have cut to lower the car. They are not a progressive coil spring so cutting them doesn't change the stiffness. Just this past weekend we drove to the Coast and on some vary twisty back roads 260 miles and they are still working great. I have had this set up installed for about 4 years now and I wouldn't change a thing. On the hwy and normal driving the ride is great. I only bottom out on severe bumps but with the bump stops on all

four corners it's no problem at all.

Hope this helps.

Gary

If you have the place to store the parts. Both front fenders with the head light scoops.

The hood if it is not damaged badly in the leading edge area. Hatch glass and door glass , both are NLA. Front bumper, it looks straight. What ever bits and pieces of the interior that are still good. I would pull the tail lights and the front panel that runs between the turn signals. Cant remember the name. If the fuse pannel is not melted , also the combo switch. As was stated the brake drums.

The stainless trim from around the windshield and hatch . Half shafts . Some of these things are still available at the Bone yards in some areas. But VARY soon this stuff will all disappear . Believe me, I have been there in the past. Right now if you brake a door glass, there is none available new. Gas Cap. 240Z gas caps are now over $50.00 new if there are still available at all.

Gary

What you can be looking at is pulling the tranny and replacing the flywheel. If you don't get the correct specs. for the teeth to properly mesh it will eat it's self.

Like the man said "cluge".

Phil, you are going to love your ZX Turbo they can be rocket ships. You said that you were not sure if it was a factory engine or not. Look at the numbers cast in the head. If is a P-90 or P-90A it is a turbo head P-79 it is a NA head. Sounds like you are on the right track. I am not a ZX guy I drive a 240 but like all these cars , when they age they need some care. If it was my car , I would replace all the rubber fuel hoses. Make sure you buy the correct rated hoses. Also replace all the vacuum hoses as well. Then if you have a problem in these areas in the future you have already eliminated this as a possibility. They likely all need replacing anyway. P-90A head has hydraulic lifters.

Gary

If you have fuel overflowing out of the carbs. it is because the float shutoff has failed. Now this failure could be caused from excessive fuel pressure. Yes there is a fuel recovery/return to the rear tank. But your pump should not be putting out more than5psi. tops.

There is a valve connected to the fuel system that supplies fresh air to the tank and also releases pressure. It is located right under the ignition coil towards the front of the engine bay. Make sure that it is not clogged. Check the pressure the pump is delivering. If 5psi and under this is good. 5psi. is max. then check the needle and seat in the carbs float bowls. Even with a blocked return line the pump should not deliver over 5psi.

Information: the gas return line that is part of the fuel rails function, is to keep the gas flowing so it stays cool. The whole fuel rail is right above the intake and exhaust manifolds. The heat from this causes the gas to boil in the rail coupled by the heat from the mechanical fuel pump. By having the gas that is not used return to the tank it helps to keep all cool.

they were not available over 7 years ago. What makes you think you can buy some know? The best you can hope for is to find a set in a Z in a bone yard somewhere. I haven't seen a early Z in a wrecking yard in years. Good luck.

Gary

Hello I'm new to the site. I was wondering if anyone could help me with the fallowing issue I'm having: I bought my first z (83 280zx) last month and the alternator was overcharging. I went and got a new one, and I tested it before installing it on the car, and it was good. Now for some reason I think somehow put thenwires on wrong. There is a white cable wich is the positive, and off that there's a thinner one. That thinner one runs to a little cylinder like thing wich is grounded to the alternator.Then the is a harness wich has two wires on it. As soon as I started the car smoke came from this conector and it melted ... Can anyone assist me with any info, I would greatly appriciate it.

I am not sure what you have done. The cylinder thing is a capacitor for static suppression for your radio. The White/red stripe is the power lead, +. My Z is in storage and away form my home at present so I cannot go and look. It's been a while since I did what you are doing and I cannot remember all of what you are dealing with. It should be a straight forward install.

That's a hell of a deal ! I paid $50.00 plus shipping over 10 years ago. Just be sure to up grade the headlight wiring with the relay system or you will fry the fuse box and or combo switch. Either of these are spendy. The lights are great tough and worth the effort. I am using 60/100 bulbs though.

Gary

Scott, just wet the gasket well with windex or soap and everything will slide right in. Mine was a tight fit. The only caution that I have is that the frame is fragile so be careful. The ends are spot welded together and can separate easily. I found that out. Don't ask. I used my old ones one set was slightly rusted and they separated .

Gary