beandip

If your Z runs at all now, I suggest that you do change the oil and filter, put at least 1/2 a tank of gas in it with some fuel stabilizer. Run the engine until warmed up , then shut her down. When cooled down pull the plugs and put a couple of teaspoons full of oil in the cylinders and with the plugs out turn the engine over . Reinstall the plugs . Stuff a oily rag in the intake of the air cleaner and the tip of the exhaust pipe. this will help to keep the moisture out of the cylinders. The Z will wait for you to do what ever you need . That is if it is stored indoors. By the way, when you do pull the head , have it gone over and a valve grind and new valve seals done. Welcome back. Gary

For what it's worth . I used a set of Euro Stage 1 springs and KYB-G2 struts. The combination gives me a vary good ride and handling . My opinion. I lowered the 240 all around by cutting some of the spring. These are not progressive , so the ride remained the same . The ride is a compromise between a track set up and OEM. To me she handles like a sports car should. Tight but not harsh. At one time Curtsey Nissan in Texas had 40 sets of these left. But this was a couple of years ago. If you would like to see pictures of my Z send me a PM . Gary

Lake, welcome to the group. This web site has a wealth of information available covering everything to do with your Z. Just search and or ask. Gary;)

Will I would LOVE a set count me in. Gary

bpilati, Whose name? v-8240z ? His name is David. Gary

Blue, There is a vary good alternative to the strap. It is a all metal piece that mounts on the upper half of the stock Diff mount . It will not allow the Diff to rise more than a eighth of an inch but still the Diff is mounted in rubber and there is no noise transfer like with a solid mount . One of the members on this site makes them for sale. I have been running one for years and I think it is the way to go. Especially for anyone running a high horsepower engine . v-8240z Is the guy that makes them, he also is the one that makes the Spindle pin puller that I have been loaning all the past years. Gary;)

Aaron, I did my complete job in my 2 car garage and my Wife's car was always able to be in the garage at night. Especially a good thing in Winter. I went to Harbor Fright and bought a set of dollies . with all four wheels on them I just pulled the car to the center of the garage to work on and pushed her back by the work bench after clean up . With these I could also rotate the Z end for end for better lighting on the area I was working on. Makes clean up easier also. With the engine out it is vary easy to roll the Z around, a little harder once the engine and tranny is installed but still a can do with no problem.

The requirements for your 280 engines are no different than the L-24 engine. Did you add oil to the dampeners in the carbs ? If not use some 10/30. Were these carbs working good on the old engine or are they new to you ? I have been running a ZX engine in my 240 for years with SUs with no issues . I am using only the electric fuel pump at the tank to supply my engine, and this was how I supplied my old L-24 also. I am using a RX-7 fuel pump and it puts out 5 psi. You may just need to adjust the Carbs. which is likely the situation. If you havent done this before , do a search here , this has been covered in detail several times in the past.

JL, thanks for the information, I have been asking around looking for a neoprene valve cover gasket. Steve at ZTherapy said that there used to be one that was cork/rubber but didn't think that they were still available. I am going to order one form the company you posted . I have been using a cork gasket that is a top quality thick gasket but it seeps oil and causes the engine to get dirty . Not enough to be a problem otherwise, but it is just a pain in the butt. Gary:nervous:

My fuel tank is in good shape with no rust . I have a filter back by the tank and one up front by the Alternator. I have changed the rear one once in 7 1/2 years and the one up front looks clean still. I guess it depends on condition of the system and cleanliness of the fuel. On your sending unit , I recommend that you replace the leaking one with a OEM part. Gary

If you are running the stock air cleaner, just spray some starter fluid in the intake ''horn'' of the air cleaner. About a 3 sec. burst. this should get the engine to at least try to start, if you have spark and the timing is right. Gary

If you are serious here and wanting to repaint the Z. From your description, it sounds like the car needs to be taken down to at least the factory primer. First of all , if the finish on it now is rattle can. All of this must come off because the new finish will lift it. There is more to prep for paint than just doing a little sanding and applying ''putty''. When you sand off the old paint you then will find what the ''bumps'' really are . Most likely rust coming through from the back side of the panel. Putty or Bondo used to fill holes will only allow moisture to come though the hole and continue rusting the metal. Holes must be either leaded in or brazed or welded. There are others on this web site far more knowledgeable in painting but since no one else had responded , I thought I would pass on what I know from experience. Prep. is the most important part in painting the car. Another thing DARK colors will show the most flaws on your Z. So unless your Z is flawless I wouldn't paint it Black or Mid Night Blue. Gary

I have never seen much of a spark at the points. What does the spark look like when you short the main coil wire to ground? Or doing the same with a plug wire. The coil wire should have a blue spark jump about a inch or so. You will need to have someone cranking the engine over to do this test . Just having the key to run does nothing here. This is vary basic, and I don't mean to be talking down to you. Not knowing your level of experience . Your points are only receiving about 8 volts so any spark there is always minimal. Gary

No you are the first to ask. How old is this Z ? Sorry I couldn't resist. The number on the block is stamped just below #5 and 6 spark plug, The information on the badge in the engine bay should have the same number stamped on it.

Last Friday night there were a couple of cars drag racing on the street here in Portland. There were three teens in the Camaro that lost control. All were 17, the car fliped and rolled several times and the driver flew out of the car and landed on the roof of a house and the car hit the house. The two passengers one a girl, were both killed. This sort of thing is happening all over the country. Recently there was a ''ricer'' doing 145 mph on the Freeway at 2:00 am . No crash but the idiot did go to jail , suspended his license and the fine was over $1000.00 , the car was impounded I know that wasn't cheep. The driver didn't seem effected one way or the other. If he would have lost the car, I think it would have gotten his attention .

You mentioned the lack of vents in the hatch. Only the early build '71s had hatch vents the later 71s had vents in the pillers like the later Zs . However the 71s have vertical defroster lines in the hatch glass.

Oiluj, I know that they are this is why I have been reluctant to modify it. It has been in my attic for about 4 years. I was told that the early 280 pan could be made to work , I don't know for sure since I haven't had one in hand. Gary

I have a splash pan for my '73 and I ran it for a few years after I reassembled my Z. I have since removed it because I am now running a 280 radiator and it conflicts with the splash pan. What are the differences in these pans on the 240s if any? I was thinking of cutting the pan to fit with the different radiator, and it seems a shame to do this to a part like this. I was told years back that mine would not fit a '71 but I question this information. I am thinking of finding a pan from a 280 and see if I can modify it to fit. running with the pan in the past , I found that it helps to keep the engine bay clean , plus and this is a big plus. It seems to help with stability of the Z at the higher speeds. Gary

It would likely be good to let us know what year this Z is. I am not one to offer info on 280s but I do know that there are differences from year to year. Gary

The Title says '71 its a '71. Just like Detroit cars , the Zs next model year started before the actual end of the calender year. Some of the 1970 240s were built in 1969. I drive a late '73, built 8-'73. The start of the '74 model year was also built 8-'73

Burrr. asterwart , welcome to out little space of Z heaven. I think you will find you will be well received. there is a wealth of good info about these fun cars here. There is a deep well of information, here and feel welcome to use the search function and also ask any question you may have , Z related. Where in Wa are you ? I live on the outskirts of Portland Or. Gary

Good one. Once again.

If the mounting plate has slots, you should be able to line up four bolts. Like geezer says. I would be leary to rotate or hang the engine with only three bolts. There is a lot of leverage on the bolts and eliminating 25% of the strength? I wouldn't. Phred makes a mounting plate that attaches to the side of the block. This is the best mount I have ever seen. This exposes both end of the engine and with the balance centered you can rotate the block with one hand. Gary

Just be sure to wedge the timing chain!

I am running the 12 80 in my Z also but since there are two different advance curves. I am not positive on what the max setting is for your dist. Mine is from a manual '79ZX and I set mine at 15* Plug gap at .044. Now this is on a ZX engine with a P-79 head. I did use the same dist on the L-24 engine that was in the Z before and it worked super. It was a '73 engine which is a low compression engine. Arne tried one of these dist on his bone stock '71 and had pre ignition problems even at 7* advance. I think because of his high compression coupled with the older head/combustion chamber design caused this. I don't have any proof of this but it could be the answer. 15* advance will give you a total advance of 32* On a manual advance dist. Gary