beandip

Alls well that ends well

There is a co. that is called P O R 15 and they have a kit for cleaning and coating the tank also they have various products to clean out and stop rust and repair rusted sheetmetal. Vary good products , not cheep but you get what you pay for. We have a distributer out here in Ore. and Here is the Phone # and they will ship. 541-345-8092 As for the fuel lines I dont think you will have too much of a problem with them I would replace the rubber hoses if they are brittle , you might disconnect the line from the old filter and while you have the tank out , that is if you pull it , blow sonme compressed air in from the tank end. There are fuel filters in the inlets to the carbs at least there were when the car was new. Be aware that the floats in the carbs may vary well stick, and if in the open position you could have a spill problem . At the local Motor cycle shop they have stuff for desolving fuel "varnish "Good luck to you .

O' about this high

NUF SAID

That would be extreemly nice of you is there something that I can trade you for one ? How about a 1/4 pannel vent that has the 240 on it for a '70 , could you use one of those ? I am into it $22.00 and I have a '73 . It was described as a hatch emblem that said 240 .

The limiting factor with an ignition is how it will handel the load at high R P M and not brake down. The stock ignition '79-'80ZX will handel to red line no problem. Now having said that if you go with an ignition like Jacobs , I have one of these on my v-8 , you will again see an improvement even farther .They are a little pricy mine was $ 400.00 + . There is a limit to what I expect from the little 6 , and we all need to be relistic in this area. If you want to just spend lots of cash and dump it into this fine little engine , by all means do it and the engine is able to task. However you will have an engine that will be srtaining to give you H P , now if you are just after power and dont have the 5 to 6 + thousand dollars to put into the 6 with twin turbos , and remember I said plus. Drop in a V-8 with a cam and duel quads a little head work and you will have more power than you can handel. Chev. small block engines can deliver one horsepower per cu, inch and more. Again to answer the ignition ? the '79 '80 zx ignition is all you need unless you are going to compete on the track or for bragging rights. One thing when I say Ignition that means the whole systime not just the dist. thats the best wires and the Coil all of it, Jacobs supplies a computer and igniter and other components that add to the later systime . Points cannot handel the load and will burn that is why they run on 8 volts. the early ignition starts on 12 and runs on 8 . Best of luck to you

I changed out my old '73 ignition and went with a complete '79 zx ignition . I picked mine up at the bone yard and bought the whole setup for '75.00. Even the pluggwires , cap , coil, and rotor were all in vary good shape in fact I have been running it all for over a year . If you do this be sure to get the coil bracket and the " stem" that the dist. bolts onto, you will need both . The coil is larger in diameter. Yes you will be able to feel the difference in performance and the idle will be much smoother.How much H P will you gain I havent a clue but one thing I get 23 MPG on the hwy and sround 19 -20 on the streets and freeway combo. And you will be able to run the stock tach. You will eliminate the ballest resister because it has the engine running on 8 v insted of 12. The electronic ignition runs on 12 all the time also you can open the spark plugg gap to 40k or so I am running at 44. I am using sylicone filled 8mm plugg wires, they were on the '79 when I pulled the dist.

I have been looking for a used cap for a few months with our any luck so far , there is a bone yard here with more than 100 Zs and not one has a cap. What the hell is going on. They cant be that hard to come by can they ?? I just wanted a spair one.

this is a great product . The only time that I have used it over a period of time was when I bought a car that had been neglected as far as the oil being changed as often as it should , and I used Rislone to free the rings and clean out the crud as I started having lifter problems . I changed the oil at 500 miles and again added Rislone with the new oil. and ran another 1000 miles and drained it again and also a new filter . I then just went with Quaker State only .and changed at 3k from then on. I put 100,000 miles on that engine and it was still running fine when I sold the car. Some people use it all the time but I think that if you use good oil and filters and change them at 3k nothing else in nessary . I have used Rislone in all my cars and trucks when I first bought them if not new, or if I dident know the privious owner or how the engine was taken care of.

the gear oil should NOT be thin like water ! The oil should be thicker than engine oil at least twice as thick and not milkey looking , sounds like water is mixed in. In any case drain it and go from there.

POR 15 has a fuel tank repair kit they sell if your tank needs repair.

Keith , congrats on the new car. I was wondering are you sure the plugs are oil fouled or could they be fouled by to rich a mixture of fuel? Do change the oil and filter and I would change the fuel filter also . Now if you only have been driving vary short distances like you said just around the block you could have just fouled the plugs because it was always running cold and on the rich start up cycle and never warmed up sufficently. As far as plugs resister plugs are for a car that has a Radio so that they wont effect reseption. NGK work the best , they were the first things I changed in my car .

I installed a jacobs ignition and they specificly stated NOT TO USE SPLIT FIRE BOSH + or any multi tiped sparkplug. I am with Zmefly about the teflon.

there is a member here in the club . Go to the members list and find escanlon and send him a e-mail and I am pritty sure he can help. Incidently a good source for a pump is one from a RX 7 that is NOT fuelinjected but carberated . About $15.00 at t he local bone yard. It will supply low pressure and it is quiet just like the origional one .

This question was asked about a month ago and it still is a bunch of hot air.. Supercharging by any method is to induce fuel / air mixture under pressure into the cylinders . Only done by a blower , otherwise known ans a supercharger which is belt or gear driven, or a turbo charger which driven by a turbine revolved by the use of the exhoust gasses leaving the engine. there have been so called superchargers offered in the back of magazines for years some were little fan type things that were mounted under the carb that were suposed to spin when the air fuel mixture passed , that was one kind that was selling about 30 years ago . There have been several variatons of this around for y ears . Like the man said " there is a sucker born every min. " Any type of vaine or propeller of fan is a restriction to air flow and can not pressureise or increase air flow unless it is driven by some method that will INCRESE THE FLOW AND PUSH THE MIXTURE UNDER PRESSURE . Save your $$$

There is a vary bad virus going around that is addressed to you from a friend and it starts with WTC or has that in the heading . It will be from one of your friends that has been infected. Dont open it , WTC stands for world trade center , what the virus does is attack the hard drive and dumps everything on all drives and sends a message to all address in your address book. So when they open the e-mail they are infected also. You wont even be able to start your computer if infected. I just got word of it and wanted to pass it on to as many people as possable. Good luck Always remember 9/11 Someone stated that this is not true . If that is the case I am sorry if I have passed on something untrue, however I would rather be careful than sorry I opened the virus into my computer.

There is a '73 240 for sale In St Helens Oregon that looks like a good buy. Has the origional green paint and steel wheels and the orig. hubcaps . stright body and enterior is decent . they are asking $700. OBO I just thought I would pass on the info. Its not my car and I dont know the owner. If you or you know of some one in the area that is looking for a driver or a project to restore. O' it has 125k on it .

what I was mearly stating is that yes they were dealer installed but nuntheless they came from Datsun on a bran new car. Just like today if you went into a dealership and wanted some brand of race tires on the new 350Z and were willing to pay you would get what you wanted. I know that there are people out there that have little knowledge of the Z-cars. Ask y our mother if the style of wheels you have on your car are a bone stock item. Most likely she wouldent know or care. If you were killed , god forbid , and she had to sell the Z , what do you think she would say if asked if it had stock wheels ? I dont want to continue this as an arguement I was only stating some facts. The old guy

There were a few dealers in Calif. that added sun roofs and side moldings and the mag wheels and tires and even air cond.. The cars came so well done from the factory that the dealers couldent make any extra cash unless they added the "options" them selves. Remember the early Zs came with steel wheels and hub caps .There may have been other dealers as well , I only know of San Diego and L.A.

76 Is that the Maco paint job you were crying about!!! where is your sign

THE ONLY THING WRONG WITH THE INTERIOR IS THE LOOSE NUT BEHIND THE WHEEL !!!!!! Hay only kiddding. I will try to get you at work and maby I can e-mail the instructions to you. The old guy

When you shot carb cleaner in the carbs you most likely disturbed some crud in the piston in the carb, either 1 or both . Pull the domes off and you will see a bunch of carbon on the slides, and inside the domes, do one at a time so you dont mix them up. Use the carb cleaner and wash off all the crud , be vary careful with the needels they can be bent vary easily. I use 20w oil , dont forget to put oil in the carbs. Make sure that the pistons are not sticking , I think that is your problem . most likely you knocked out one carb. all the best to you , Gary

I have used vicegirps in this same situation and had it work for me . Like was stated before the line wrench is the way to go first then , using vice grips means most likely a new line is in order.

I have been told that if you take a 1/2" socket that will not quite fit over the lock and beat it over the lock and then remove the lock with a brakeover bar. It destroys the socket but what the hell

put in the proper area and you will sell it