beandip

I just pulled the tank on my '73 . I am sick and tired of having explosive vapor in the interior of my car under any surcomstances. Nissan makes a hose that is for this purpose. It is a simple mod. and it eliminates all the plumbing accept one vent hose to the existing port on the filler neck to vent the tank while it is filled. Sorry I dont own a scanner or a digital camera but I may still have a diagram in a file that I can send you if you want . Just send me a email Gary

I could say something about being horney but I wont sounds like you have it covered

I am doing the same thing, I contacted Z therapy and ordered a set of SM needles because of the added engine displacement. Also try some 20wt oil in the carbs this helps to richen the mixture comming off the line. Just a split secound , but it makes a difference . On the leaking carbs , yes do check the float levels and while your at it make sure the floats them selves are not leaking causing them to sink. Also check the shutoff for crud some times little particules are loosened and will lodge in the seat and cause them to allow fuel to enter the float chamber and causing it to overflow. Is your fuel pump putting out more than 5psi?:classic:

texasz , thanks will do.

I am in need of a rear transverse link from an '72 thru '78Z it's the curved unit that passes accross the back of the diff. not the mustasch bar, Thanks Gary Portland Or.

The good news is I found a really good site with a lot of good information. The bad news is that I now need a rear transvers link the 240 will not work with the R-200 diff. Any one have one lying arround ? GARY

crap! does any one have a rear transvers link from a 280 ??

Do I need to change the rear transverse mount ? I thought I had all my bases covered but ... I have the front mount and cross member and moustash bar , but do I need the rear link from a 280??? Damn I had all the information in my files but lost the hard drive and everything. Help it you can , Thanks Gary

there is also a switch on the linkage of the gas peddle , just look up from the floor under the dash . It also has two wires extending out from it.

of the three I like the bloodorange man that looks good. Take a look at a Toyota color for '03 Strastphire blue . this is an awsom color. deep metallic and almost black will show off all the curves and bends . I think I am going with the Yellow at this point but still am thinking of a gold pearl over it . depends on my painter ,escanlon this is his bag and I trust him completely.

cv thanks for the site info. Just a note I could only get to the site on yahoo . Carl Beck has the entry on the diff swap. vary good information thanks:classic:

Cv , Thanks I will give it a try , Thanks Gary:classic:

texasz, now it's a different site it may be part of the garage but not accessable from this one. I strictly is for the change of the differentials . I have found my copy on a flopy but it is in black and white and the origional had a colored background so none of the text can be seen. Stupid of me I thought that I had backed up the site and never looked at the flopy after I downloaded . I just learned somthing here . I am not much of a computer guy . Here I thought I was being smart . :sick:

close, but this one wont work:classic: it is a geocities,com but it is for the R-200 swap

I recently had to re do the hard drive because of a virus and lost all files and everything. I had a geocities.com address that covered the 180 to R-200 swap in a 240 . I am doing this swap starting tomarrow and would like the infromation . Thanks

darrel those are two great sites . I had lost contact with norm when my hard drive died. Thanks Gary

This is to clairfy my earlier post . The bend in the sway bar is there to clear the forward diff . cross member Gary

David , it is too bad that we had to meet in this manner. I do want to welcome you to the club here. I think that you will find a wealth of information and good people here. And we do vary much treasure out Z cars that is for sure. And again welcome to the group. Gary:classic:

dispillman , I am sorry that y ou are dissapointed in the car and the deal . This is a given with ANY transaction. However the fact of the matter is , you should have asked the questions and done the checking by at least contacting a Nissan dealer in the area and hiring a mechanic or service person or body and fender man to have a look at the car for you and report back . I have done inspections of this sort in the past for members of this forum and saved then a lot of money in air fair not to mention anguish. When you go to a car DEALER and buy a NEW or USED car , dont you take it out and drive it FIRST before you sign on the dotted line? From what you posted on the other web site , it sounds like a good car and one that would be vary sellable if this is what is next for the Z . Again vary sorry for your distasteful transaction and but cuda , wodda, shoudda . that is not of much comfort . I can see both sides of this coin. Gary

Tomahawk what we are talking of here is the 240 shape Z and the tests that were done were on the first of the Zcar . The facts that I have been refering to are for this car . Namely the '70 240 which were less than 2800ccs. Dont believe what you read on the plate. There is no way the engine ever made that HP at the wheels. Yes at the crankshaft on an engine stand with out a alternater or water pump or any other add ons. Figure about 135 HP on a good day at the wheels.

Zedd findings they are the best you can get. They come with the center strut support and are thicker than stock. Pritty much drop in replacement . I only neded to make two small cuts to relieve the metal to make a bend. I have pictures if you want. I dont have a digital camera but are on CDs . get me a email address to send them to you through our pvt mail and I will forward what you want Gary I can talk you through it if needed . The floors must be welded in as the floor on these cars acts as part of the frame. Gary:classic: One thing do not do any cutting untill you have the floors in hand so you can see what the limits of the pans are. The edges extend up the sides about 2" and extend up the front slant about the same and extend to the rear past the rear seat support and up the same ammt from the floor level. If the frame rails are too rusted to weld to they should be replace also and if this is the case the car is likely a parts car that is being driven, sorry . Vary costly to repair if done correctly unless you are a tig welder your self.

The car first of all was sold as a project car . Yes it was sold by a professional Z restorer . But was advertised as a project. I was in the add that the car was origional I will give you that , it was also said that the car was inspected . Was the inspection asked for by the buyer NO ! Did the buyer ask questions as to the condition of the engine and what trans. was in the car no. Could be an automatic . The buyer is jumping up and down because brake lines have been replaced and the alternater has been changed . Yes there is a L-28 engine in the car. If anyone buys a 30+ old car on Ebay or any where, sight unseen , He is setting him self up for dissapointment . Especially if he thinks he is to get a rust free absolutly origional auto of the age of these cars , for under 10K much less half that. Becaue in his mind the car is one way and when it is first seen it will be different and not as good as it mental picture. I saw the add and read the other posts from the other venue and I still say he got what he paid for. Major case of buyers remorse. Tired of beating this DEAD HORSE. :mad:

Has any used products from EXPRESS GLASS INC. in HOUMA LA. I am replacing my windshield and need a gasket and found one on on ebay . I am just wonering about the quality and fit , form this company . If any one has any knowledge here please share. Thanks Gary:classic: