I just replaced both master and slave this evening. I used the parts out of the box without swapping any older parts. I did measure every thing before installing and the parts acquired from MSA were spot on.

Regarding bleeding, my son sat in the car while I worked the bleeder. I had him pump three times and hold. On the 4th cycle it moved the slave and by the 6th I was pumping pure Dot 4.

An straight forward job if ever there was one.

Edited October 11, 201015 yr by Gary in NJ

So i bled the system about 4 times myself (pita)

Motive makes a nice pressure bleeder for European cars, they might have an adaptor for the Z's fluid reservoir. It takes all the pain out of bleeding brakes.

Mike

As MK1888 said, some makes and models require pressure bleeding. Some thirty five years ago I was working on a Slob, oops, I mean Saab and the hydraulics of the clutch didn't respond to gravity bleeding or the traditional pump and bleed. A Renault factory pressure bleeding tool which consisted of a bicycle pump, hose, and reservior lid was compatible with the Saab and solved the problem. Gravity bleed first then pump.

I've never owned any Datsun (and I've owned several!) that 'required' pressure bleeding. Normal bleeding will work if done properly and all components involved are is proper working order.

Edited October 11, 201015 yr by sblake01

yeah i have a similar problem i replaced my slave and master cylinder. and i only have pressure if i pump the clutch pedal a few times. im thinking its air in the system because i didnt bleed the master cylinder by its self. but i also have a couple of questions im hoping you guys can answer.

1. i hve heard you should use the old push rods on the new cylinders?

2. do you have to bleed the master by itself?

3. what else could be causing my problem?

thanks guys