Zs-ondabrain

I need everyones input on this one (Combo and T/S switches)

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    All the info you require is in this thread. Dave Irwin "zsondabrain" is a master rebuilder. He did mine and they work perfectly 3 years later.

     

    Cheers, Mike

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    What an amazing coincidence.

     

    Just last weekend I was leaving the car show at night and when I turned on my lights, I had no dash lights or running lights.  Me thinks it I have a combo switch issue, as I cannot get any voltage to come back from the green and white wire back to the car.  Headlights work, but they get constant power I think.  Blinkers work, and flashers work. But no dash lights. I sent both my stalks to Dave the man Irwin.  However playing with my turn signal, I noticed why my blinkers would never reset after I turned the wheel.  The factory grease had hardened like syrup.  I sprayed them off with WD40 and whala, the little spring activated plates got nice and snappy again. Dave will finish the job I am sure.  My car was a 7/71.  Never had an electrical issue with the car in 9 years. This is my first.  This is one time I am glad my car has not been chopped to hell by a previous owner.  Originality works in your favor here.  :)

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    I sent my combo switch and my turn signal switch into DAve and the results were just beautiful.  The finish was perfect, and the quality of wire and overwrap and connectors were better than I could have hoped for.  I recently sent in my hazard switch so he could do that too.  I had no idea the hazard switch was so critical to the wiring of the Z. 

     

    I am going to go ahead and install his Parking Light harness to go with my Headlight harness as well.  CAnnot hurt.

     

    Has anybody tried the MSA fusebox replacement? Are they really better than OEM and worth 200 bucks?

     

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    I sent my combo switch and my turn signal switch into DAve and the results were just beautiful.  The finish was perfect, and the quality of wire and overwrap and connectors were better than I could have hoped for.  I recently sent in my hazard switch so he could do that too.  I had no idea the hazard switch was so critical to the wiring of the Z. 
     
    I am going to go ahead and install his Parking Light harness to go with my Headlight harness as well.  CAnnot hurt.
     
    Has anybody tried the MSA fusebox replacement? Are they really better than OEM and worth 200 bucks?
     

    Just to let you know, it is not that hard to take your existing fuse box and convert it yourself. I did mine for about $15 in parts.


    Phil Smith

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    Phil, you can't just leave us hanging! Tell us how you did it, please. I would love to be able to do that changeover with modern fuses. Pics, please.

    Cheers, Mike

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    Phil, you can't just leave us hanging! Tell us how you did it, please. I would love to be able to do that changeover with modern fuses. Pics, please.
    Cheers, Mike

    Amazon, Amazon, Amazon - bought the fuse holders from Amazon. You need 10 and they have 10. $6.99. I think 1/2 inch long screws that fit through the holes in the fuse holder, washer and nut on the back side. Take photos of the wiring before removing it from the current holders. I popped out all of the holders while still attached to the wires. I took a Dremel wheel to cut through the plastic just wide enough to fit the fuse holders in place. The screw holes should line up with the holes that were left from the original fuse holders. Once all 10 are in place, then you can start soldering wire for wire to the terminals on the new fuse holder. The battery wire is the hardest to do because it has to connect to 3 of the fuse holders. Easiest way is to strip the wire long enough and tin it with solder before soldering to the 3 fuses. When you install the blade fuses you will still be able to use your fuse box cover. If you have serious melting of your current fuse holder, you will need fix that problem as well. Picture of the front side only and the fuse holders from Amazon.IMG_9403.JPGIMG_9405.JPG



    Phil Smith
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    4 hours ago, Phil Z said:


    Amazon, Amazon, Amazon - bought the fuse holders from Amazon. You need 10 and they have 10. $6.99. I think 1/2 inch long screws that fit through the holes in the fuse holder, washer and nut on the back side. Take photos of the wiring before removing it from the current holders. I popped out all of the holders while still attached to the wires. I took a Dremel wheel to cut through the plastic just wide enough to fit the fuse holders in place. The screw holes should line up with the holes that were left from the original fuse holders. Once all 10 are in place, then you can start soldering wire for wire to the terminals on the new fuse holder. The battery wire is the hardest to do because it has to connect to 3 of the fuse holders. Easiest way is to strip the wire long enough and tin it with solder before soldering to the 3 fuses. When you install the blade fuses you will still be able to use your fuse box cover. If you have serious melting of your current fuse holder, you will need fix that problem as well. Picture of the front side only and the fuse holders from Amazon.IMG_9403.JPGIMG_9405.JPG



    Phil Smith

    Three posts and full of useful information. Welcome to the site. Thanks for the link. I've searched Amazon for fuse holders many times and don't recall seeing these puppies.

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    Thanks, Phil. The ingenuity here always amazes me. Where there's a will, there's a way...

    Cheers, mike

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    Thanks, Phil. The ingenuity here always amazes me. Where there's a will, there's a way...
    Cheers, mike

    If you have any questions about anything not mentioned, let me know. Post pictures of your fuse box update.


    Phil Smith

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    I undertook this fuse box upgrade this weekend. I had ordered the fuse holders back when @Phil Z first posted this. Just now was motivated to do it. My fuse box had the typical melting of the parking light fuse. I installed an inline fuse pre-1980, and installed LEDs a few years ago to lower the current draw. My first step was to take photos of the existing wiring and also make a key to where each wire goes. Next I removed the fuse clips leaving a bare box, then repaired the hole from the melted fuse with JB Weld. Semi-ground down the JB Weld and coated it with black satin paint.

    Like Phil I used a dremel to cut slots for the fuse holders. I cut the first one too wide, so after that cut them slightly smaller than needed and filed them to the right width. I had some 6/32-inch machine screws in my stash, some 3/8" long and some 1/2" long, and they were the correct diameter. Drilled out the holes as needed and installed the fuse holders and screws.

    Nissan didn't leave any spare wire length, so I pried open the clamp holding the insulated part of the wire and cut off the old fuse holders to give me all the length I could get. To connect the source side of the fuse block where two wires were common, I tore apart an old plug and soldered those across the terminals. At the three common connectors the stock box has a screw terminal. To duplicate that I smashed an old duplex outlet and soldered the parts across the three terminals. Ugly but effective. I soldered the wires on, checked for continuity, and re-installed it in the car. So far everything works like it did before. As Phil said, the fuse box cover still fits.

    Thanks to Phil for coming up with this upgrade.

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    Recently after tuning both of my carbs on my 1972 240z, which carries both of Dave´s  headlight and dashboard light upgrades, all out of the sudden the dashboard / instrument lights, front and rear parking light and tail lights went out. I already checked the tail lights and the fuse box and the bulbs and fuses are ok. Where else shall i check before taking the steering column cover and checking the combo switch? The only thing that works are the headlights.

    Edited by jalexquijano

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    Hi Zs-ondabrain,

    I just installed your headlight and parking light upgrades today and since I had the steering column uncovered, I took some pictures for you. The car is a 1973 with a 01/73 build date. It has never been repaired or modified (until today) as I am the original owner. I hope this pics are useful

     

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    I will participate w/ photos & build date tonight when my kid gets home from school with it. In the meantime, I guess I have to give up on my turn signal switch and buy a new one. He's been driving around for months w/ no right signal and I don't think I can troubleshoot it. Cops in Irvine don't need a better excuse to pull over a teenager in a loud car!

    I see listings like this one on Ebay. Restored turn signal switch for $199.99. Is this the going rate? I thought it seemed a bit high for the turn signal side, but I don't have much of a frame of reference. I'm OK if the switch I buy doesn't look good because mine was restored by @Zs-ondabrain and the lever looks great - I can swap them out, no problem. 

    So if $200 is high for that switch, does anybody know of a better source, or have a switch themselves they want to sell?

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    If you have one turn signal it seems likely that you just have a dirty contact on the other one.  Can't remember exactly what they look like but they slide and wear and get grimy over time as the wheel is turned.  I think the contact point might be on the back of the wheel.  I have a 78 unit in the garage I can pull out and look at.

    If you have one you should be able to get the other to work, I think.

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    The slidey thing might be the mechanical part that turns it off.  But it can keep the internal switch from staying on, if I recall right.  

    I've hosed mine down with contact cleaner like site showed and it fixed it.  Both the dimmer and the signals.  They get gummed up.

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