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Headlight Upgrade Harness's For Sale (again!)


Zs-ondabrain

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After much deliberation and pleading from members who either want more or never had a chance the last time, I am making the popular "Headlight Relay Upgrade Harness's again.

There is only one catch. It's not as cheap as it used to be. Due to suppliers costs, fuel prices, my wifes sanity, and the fact that I no longer wish to work for my current employer (long story), the new price for the headlight harness is $125.00 inside the U.S. Outside the U.S. needs to contact me first be fore making a payment

I appologize for those of you who think that this is too much but I'm sure that if you ask any one who bought one before, They'll tell you that this is a more than fair price for the work that I put into these. It in no way harms the 240Z and as a matter of fact,

1) It stops the fuses from overheating

2) Increases the voltage to the headlight to almost full battery voltage.

3) Saves your headlight and turnsignal switch from future damage due to over heating.

4) completely integrates into your 240Z without any cutting or drilling of any kind.

5) Your headlights will be brighter and allow you to upgrade to H4 headlights.

I only take money orders for the $125.00 and they can be sent to me at ....

David W. Irwin

5830 70th St NE. Marysville, WA. 98270

You can e-mail me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com or P.M. me at any time. I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

Dave.

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...the new price for the headlight harness is $125.00 inside the U.S.

I apologize for those of you who think that this is too much...

Dave.

Well I for one don't think your new price is too much. Let me be the first to say that my payment is on it's way to you. I was disappointed when you said you would no longer make this harness. I commend you for providing detailed plans for all to see as your gift to the Z community. Even with the plans, however, I found that locating and paying for the parts was much more than I had anticipated.

The parts alone, if you only want to make one or two harnesses runs you $40 or more. That is not even including tax and shipping. The copper in the wires is heavy, and shipping adds up quickly. If you buy small quantities of wire locally, the price per foot is much more than Dave can buy in quantity. I spent countless hours trying to find the 3-prong sockets you need to make this harness plug and play, and to avoid cutting into the stock harness. I even spent over $20 with autosparks in the UK for some sockets that looked like they would work but it turned out that the pins and plugs inside the sockets did not match up to the OEM wiring harness. This was an expensive mistake on my part. You can avoid all of my sorrows by just buying Dave's harness already assembled.

So the $125 is more than what Dave offered this harness for in the past. But get real people. When you take into consideration his cost of materials, and the cost to ship the harness to your door, he was essentially doing the assembly work for free. While that was very generous of him, he now wants a fair price for his design, testing and assembly of this harness. So why not help out a fellow Z enthusiast and send your money in today. You will thank yourself when you can see so much better driving your Z home on that dark and stormy night.

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WOW! that was impressive. Thank you for that and i'd have to say that you hit it right on the button when you spoke of suppliers, shipping, research, design, manufacturing and everything else.

They are hard to make (3 hours) and it took me two weeks of searching to find all the right parts, suppliers and shipping methods. But thats where I figured that If I wanted one so bad, then everyone else must need the same thing, being as how most of us here have a 240Z or something similar.

I really wish I could fing the black 260Z plugs and the white 280Z plugs. Those are my "needles in a haystack" I can't stand the thought of butchering some ones harness or even an OEM harness out of a wrecked Z. I'd prefer new for a new product. It's like putting Pinto Wheels on your brand new Mustang. it's just ugly.

Dave

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Dave,

Since I am the owner of a 280z and would like to be able to run the bright new headlights I just bought when I put everything back together, would you recommend using old OEM wiring from another 280Z to put a headlight harness toghether or to use a pre-fabed kit like the one from VB.

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/ws/0085.html

It's sorta plug and play, but not quite like yours from what I can tell.

I have an extra complete engine wiring harness I could take the plugs for the headlights off of to use, but it's in nice shape and I kinda want to keep it incase I run into problems later ...

I'm way to busy to help locate the wire plugs for the 260 or 280z cars at the moment (closing on a house, moving and planning wedding stuff all this month :stupid: :tapemouth :stupid: )

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Dave,

would you recommend using old OEM wiring from another 280Z to put a headlight harness toghether or to use a pre-fabed kit like the one from VB.

From what I've read on this board about the VB harness, is that it is not plug and play. The wires are too short, you have to cut it to get the connectors inside the headlight bucket, and the wire is so thin the thing heats up once you finally get it in. That is why there is so much interest in Dave's harness.

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Not to shoot Dave's business in the foot but if you can't have the harness you might consider the 105 amp alternator. I don't know if 260's and 280's have the same problem power wise that 240's seem to but an alternator that pumps out more juice might make up for what you're dealing with now.

I may replug my lights back in to the old system after I get the 105 amp alternator put on the car to see what if any difference there is.

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Not to shoot Dave's business in the foot but if you can't have the harness you might consider the 105 amp alternator. I don't know if 260's and 280's have the same problem power wise that 240's seem to but an alternator that pumps out more juice might make up for what you're dealing with now.
Bigger alternators can be good, but lack of amps isn't the big problem with the headlights. Running all the amps that the headlights draw through a 35 year old headlight switch and fusebox is. A different alternator doesn't address that at all, but the relay harness does.
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Once again, Arne took the words right out of my mouth.

Even with a 200 amp alternator, you'll still be using 35 year old wiring and the power will still be going thru the old fusebox, switch and umteen feet of old wire.

But actually, please do the comparison so we can hear about the results. I'd personally like to hear them, Good or bad.

Dave.

P.S. Will, I finally got your M.O. today (Saturday) I'll try to get that out to you on monday.

Dave

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Even with a 200 amp alternator, you'll still be using 35 year old wiring and the power will still be going thru the old fusebox, switch and umteen feet of old wire.

But actually, please do the comparison so we can hear about the results. I'd personally like to hear them, Good or bad.

Dave.

I just got the 105 amp alternator from Z Specialties, and will probably install it before the headlight harness gets here. I can't say I will make a technical study of it, but I can give you my impressions of before/ after alternator alone, and alternator + harness.

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I just got the 105 amp alternator from Z Specialties, and will probably install it before the headlight harness gets here. I can't say I will make a technical study of it, but I can give you my impressions of before/ after alternator alone, and alternator + harness.

Just keep us posted. when did you send the M.O. again? I like to keep track of these things.

while I wired my own, I must say, your price is more than reasonable for what you are providing..

thank you very much.

Dave

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I had read previous posts that said the 105 amp alternator provides some improvement to the headlights and before I knew about Dave's harness that was my solution to my weak headlight problem. When I found out about the harness, I jumped on it because it was a quicker solution. I'm still getting the alternator but, in part, because it has an internal voltage regulator which will free up space on my wheel well to properly mount the headlight harness. I hated the idea of having to drive flat out on the old system to get mediocre performance out of the headlights. Thankfully Dave's harness solved that problem.

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If you've read the posts about the 105 amp Alternator, then you SURELY couldn't have missed the even MORE posts about melting fuseboxes, wiring and combination switches.

The problem as Arne stated is that the original wiring has problems inherent in it's design when age and regular wiring resistance creep into the system. Resistance steps up not only at the connections but also in the wiring itself, and ultimately this causes the wiring and connections to heat up which ultimately cause failure.....i.e. melted wiring, fuseboxes, switches.

If you compare the electrical system to a plumbing system (and don't laugh, the analogy gets used in College when discussing circuitry), then you can understand that when the system has a bunch of clogs and leaks you don't add a bigger pump! Sure, for the first few times things would ~seem~ to flow better.....until it explodes!

Maybe the reason you don't see much about the 105 amp alternator is that most people understand that concept. More juice making CAPABILITY isn't going to help if you don't have the capacity to transport it around the car without melting the whole car.

Dave's system allows the original wiring to handle an even LOWER current than it was designed for, to actuate a secondary system that then feeds the power hungry headlamps. Think of it as Bypass Surgery around a clot / clogged artery.

E

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I was wondering if both the headlight harness and the parking light harness can be installed in tandom. I will order these when I have the money, in 2 months. I am going on a road trip and i am getting body work done to fix the huge gash in the side of my s13. I am also wondering if you are willing to give a break on price, if I buy both H/L and parking/L harnesses at the same time? :squareeye

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I can consider it. Just e-mail me with the request and we'll go from there.

Orders are on a two day delay at the moment (waiting for my relays to come in.) If I buy then at the store, they cost about $4-$5 each. If I wait a few days, They're only $1.25 each. Potter/Brumfeild relays aren't cheap but I prefer them.

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Dave, in case you missed it on other threads and mailing lists, I finally got my headlight harness installed. Your product is nothing less than first class. Very well engineered, Dave. I have noticed a good increase in headlight intensity.

You might want to note that there are TWO ground connectors in your instructions. The instructions only mention cleaning the surface once. I also recommend adding an instruction to put a little dielectric grease on the end of the new female connector. The other connectors will already have a little in them, but the new female connector on the right side will not. Thanks.

Oh, also would you recommend covering the new female connector on the right side that ends up not having the OEM plastic weather cover? I'm sure they were put there to keep water from spraying into the connector assemblies.

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