back-to-zcars

Try contacting Jim from the Calgary Z Club, he may have one for you

Dave

Not wanting to flame but "Moscow Idaho" is alot more discriptive than US. I would think he lives in NW US.

Good luck.

So, I finally make it back to the wreckers. too.

Where is that wrecker located.

I'm in the process of putting BMW seats in my '71

Dennis

Do you have any pic's of your install, and what BMW did your seats come from?

I just got Z3 M seats for my 72, (I had read on the other site that they needed some fab to fit in) when I tried a test fit My head was on the roof and I could hardly get into the car.

Dave

You may want to ask at the other site Hybrid z cars. They do alot more swaps on that site. Here we are more into keeping the l6 and our cars original. Good luck!

Dave

Thanks Dave thats what I was looking for.

How is the quality of that kit? Does it have the holes and snaps in the floor mats to keep them in place, and what backing does it have.

Dave

Thanks Jim,

That info was what i was looking for. I will try to come tonight, cant bring the car out it still is in winter storage.

Dave

I am planning some upgrades to my 72 240z to make it more comfortable. What I plan is to install Power windows (Spal), locks, and 90 Z3 power seats with heaters and power adjust.

I have a gm upgraded alternator already installed, as well as Dave’s headlight relay and taillight relay. I have had issues with the fuse box in the car and plan on replacing it with these upgrades.

My question is, for those of you that have upgraded to a more modern optioned car, how have you tapped into the Electrical System in the S30? Pics and explanation would be appreciated.

Dave Irwin can answer all my questions but I would like to see others approach also.

Thx Dave

Mods, I put this in the wrong area can it be moved to electical?

I have the opposite problem, but it may help you guys. My rubber is still intact and soft, but I am using a K&N filter that is a 1/4” wider than the original medal one. The K&N has soft rubber sides so I would think it would seal without the original seals in place. I tried to remove mine but it is so well glued in place it will not come off without cutting it, which I don't want to do.

That is the add on that covered a hole in the hood for 74 models. the hole was a fix that dealers tried to solve the vapor lock issues with the 260's flat top carbs. Sorry I can't help with the original question, thought I would give info on what you found.

Dave

Arne

I don't know if this helps, here is a crappy blackberry photo of mine. Let me know if you need it measured or a better photo of it.

Dave

The Pertronix works very well on my 1972 (4-speed) also the only issues I have had is I left the key on in the run position and burnt out a set. Totally my fault and something to keep in mind.

Any one I have seen has always been a metel sliding ashtray. The flip lid ash tray is on early cars prior to 72.

Hope this helps.

Got mine today, shipping to Canada can take time. It looks great.

Thanks Wingzro

Dave

PM sent

WingZr0, thanks just talked to you on the phone. Looking forward to that thrush sound again, not to mention the cool old school look. To bad I have to wait ontill spring. I also want the twin stack's.

Dave

Stephen PM sent.

I have been fighting this battle for about a month. The ammeter reads in the negative and the battery does not charge, when i put a voltmeter on the battery it shows that I have 14.2 volts. I had the alternator rebuilt, and the ammeter still shows "-". I am thinking now that I have fried the ammeter. Stephen what was your symptoms when you fried yours? If anyone has a voltmeter fuel gauge from a 78 280 Id be interested to getting it.

Dave

I'm in for correct late Series 1 also.

I flew to Victoria from Calgary a year ago to look a 72 that he had for sale. I was about to buy the car until I found out how he had bought it. Without getting into all the details, I did not purchase the car! The $400.00 round trip was a savings over the issues I would have faced. All that I will say is be very careful if you deal with this seller!

This is not my car, but I have seen it in person.

well put al'z

Reading that thread, particularly the description off the working of that particular tri-carb set-up, I'm surmising that the intake pulsations and "dead" time are the biggest downfall to it, correct?

This has been debated to death here and on other z forums. The firing order of our engines is said to be the cause of the pulsation’s and dead air flow. The fact of the matter is every other inline 6 that had triple S.U.'s has the same firing order, examples are Jags, Austin Healy, and Triumphs. The manufactures of these cars did not have an issue with the firing order. Steve made it work and states the balance tube negates the pulsation that everyone is worried about. Good on you Steve your set up makes me green with jealousy.

I bought the intake from Dave that is in the photos on his post. The set up is different than Steve's in that the carbs sit much closer together, the middle float has to be relocated, but the original size air box could be used if it is modified with a third hole. I am planning a l28 build that will use this set up.

Dave

Yes that is where it failed, the rust was in the frame rails and firewall floor area.

At the time I lived in the interior of B.C., after the car fell to the ground I had it inspected by I.C.B.C. and they laugh at me when I asked why they would not fix it. The repair you did looks good and will stiffen the whole car.

Dave