Everything posted by DeesZ
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2400 OHC Cam Cover Before & After a Refresh
This is a - before and after - a refreshing image of a NISSAN 2400 OHC cam cover I recently did. I enjoy doing these covers over quite a bit and just had to expand my cam cover storage rack to handle the growing crowd of them.
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Rebuild a 240Z mechanical fuel pump
Very interesting, Arne. I think I'll rebuild one of my spares and put it on to replace the one that's on now - that's seeping a bit of oil (around the pivot pin, I think) and it tends to throw a drop or two after each drive. Also, the diagram that you reference isn't showing up on my screen. Any thoughts on how to see it? Thanks for the time & effort that you put into sharing this.
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2400 OHC Cam / Valve Cover
I 'refreshed' this cam cover and added gold to the lettering, which in my opinion looks more attractive than plain aluminum. Others may disagree. Comments welcome, as I am considering offering a service to do this type of work. Check out my gallery for other cam cover refreshes / restorations.
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Valve covers
A Friday evening with no sporting events or homework with my boy left me with a bit of free time.... Here's the finished product of the refreshed "NISSAN 2400 OHC" cam cover. I elected to go with the gold lettering to add some accent. (The last picture is in natural evening sunlight casting long shadows.) Your comments or suggestions are welcome.
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Valve covers
Thanks, guys. So, I am assuming the original finish simply was cast aluminum with no polished surfaces (such as letters/numbers) or any paint?
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whats next?
Sputtering and cutting out could be a fuel supply problem as addressed above, but the inability to restart the car without jumping the starter sounds electrical in nature, doesn't it? Sounds like several things going on at the same time perhaps. My car ('72) is not EFI, so I can't speak to that, but I did have a restarting problem at one point which was resolved by cleaning the electrical connections at the battery, starter, and grounds and swapping in new battery cables. Cleaning up the connections helped, but didn't totally eliminate the problem. New cables took care of the issue totally.
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Valve covers
Among my cam covers I have an early "2400-OHC". I took a close look at it the other day and noticed that the lettering had at one time been a 'gold' color (as there was some gold paint remaining). Was this gold lettering original to the cam cover or was it added by a previous owner. I'll post a picture below so you can see what I'm talking about. Has anyone else noticed the gold letters? I could swear that I've seen a picture somewhere of what was supposed to be an original 2400 cover with the gold lettering, but for the life of me I can't locate it now. This is of interest to me because I've decided to 'refresh' the cover. I'll post some pictures of the "after" results soon. Here's the 'before' shots (note the lettering color):
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New Boy from cali!
Welcome aboard, Bjorn! There is a ton of information here in the board archives, as well as members that are quite well versed on EFI (which I am assuming your car still has). Please give us more particulars and I'll bet that you have your car up and running in very short order. (We like pictures, too!)
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Parts Store Fun
My local "parts stores" (Pep Boys, Advance, and the like) are about worthless unless you do your homework first and go in with a part number. My home town NAPA store is quite helpful and often successful on the common replacement parts. I use them often. For the less common stuff I use my local NISSAN dealer (about 30 mi away). I had to work with the parts guy at the dealer a few times to get the guy to work with me. If I supply part numbers to the dealer, the parts guy will gladly search for them until he finds them or determines that they are NLA. He's a young guy (35ish) but actually knows what a 240Z is. We are to the point now that I can send him the part numbers in an email and he'll determine availability and price by return email the same day. From there I order and pay when I pick the parts up. Convenient but not cheap, but where else can you get some of this stuff? The bottom line, in my area anyway, is that there really isn't any incentive for anybody to give much of a hoot about our needs for Datsun parts. There are so few of them in my area that it simply doesn't pay to cater to our needs. It's no surprise that the kids at Advance Auto (etc.) don't know what the car is... around here they were being born when the cars were rusting their way off the road and out of common use. It's just not profitable. BUT that is no excuse for what TomoHawk mentions "The biggest lessons they need to learn is humility, honesty and patience (in that order! ) and how to LISTEN". This is not just a problem at auto parts stores. I have spent the last twenty years of my corporate career training kids (okay, young adults) and adults alike to demonstrate those qualities and employ those skills. It's simply amazing how un-customer oriented a lot of people are.... not by nature, but by upbringing. It is a pleasure when I find a truly well trained person practicing age old skills. They are a rare find these days.
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47 yrs old and just bought my first Z
Welcome aboard! It's never to late for enjoying a Z as long as you are still above sod. You will find this site to be a wealth of information, and the search function will become your best friend when working on that car. You will also find the folks here to be quite helpful and generous with their knowledge. We're looking forward to some pictures!
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Large Letter NISSAN Cam Cover
My latest addition to the cam cover collection (see the others in my gallery)... a large letter 'NISSAN' cover.
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Large Letter NISSAN Cam Cover
My latest addition to the cam cover collection (see the others in my gallery)... a large letter 'NISSAN' cover. It was a mess when I got it, several coats of paint, but no 'damage', so a good starting point for a refresh job. I media blasted with SC (not the lettering or the lands) and detailed the lettering area with high temp black & clear coat. The lettering and lands are (for now) bare, but may yet get a gloss clear coat. The body was topped with a VHT low gloss aluminum. I may experiment with a matte coat of poly....
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Exhaust Header Wrapping
Welcome, Zforce! I am confident that you will enjoy this community and the members that make it up. Thank you for your input.
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1976 280Z 33000 miles
I looked at the pictures, and the car does look nice, especially on the outside. Being that I'm familiar with what the east coast does to Zcars, I would give it a thorough inspection prior to spending that amount of money. We could use a lot more - and better - pictures to help you out much more. So let me preface these comments with 'this is what I think I saw on the several moderate quality pictures posted, and these are the thoughts that they provoked'.... A flag goes up with me thinking that it may have been repainted. I suggest this because 1) it really looks nice on the outside, 2) the engine bay color doesn't 'seem' to match the exterior in color and condition, and 3) the hood ornament was removed, and there doesn't seem to be a trace of 'difference' in the finish where it was on the hood. Now, I could be all wet on this, but better pictures would tell us a lot more. Further, in the engine bay, the general condition there just doesn't seem to match the exterior; nor does it appear to be a super low mileage engine bay... I just see too much grime for a very low mileage car. Also, I agree with others that the question lingers with me about why the interior would need replaced at that level of use. I 'think' I saw major wear on the driver's seat back nearest the door (did I see that?). That is indicative of a lot of use IMO, anyway. Please get us some more pictures of the car inside, outside, and underneath and we will be able to do a lot more than just guess. You'll find a lot of us here that will be able to help you out. This could be a gem or a pig with lipstick... I just can't really tell yet.
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Hey, I just got these louvers...
I think a few more pictures are needed, esp where the hardware is supposed to be.... show us where what you have is supposed to mate up with the 'missing' parts.
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Asspiring enthusiast says:Hey whats up!
Where in PA are you? (I'm there as well. Every now and again one comes up... I just sold a '71 that would have been exactly what you are looking for, sorry that you missed it.)
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boredom+weekend+creativity=
boredom+weekend+creativity= I too tend to find things to do. Here's what a slow day at home created: Both of these are ceramic tiles I had sitting around, media blasted with the design to give 'depth', and paint added to give color. The backgrounds are the original tile colors with no paint. They end up as three dimensional decorations around the house.... The media resist (stencil) is a pain to cut; hope to get my hands on a decent vinyl cutter to speed up the process and add more options to the process.
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Electric Car Progress
A very interesting video, Walter, and a Datsun, too! Thanks for sharing.
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Series 1 Engine Paint Plan - Details Please
The one on my '72 shows no traces of paint. I cannot verify it as 'original'.
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Series 1 Engine Paint Plan - Details Please
That's great to know. One problem with some of the clear coats, even the high-temp stuff, is yellowing. I'm seeing a small bit of yellowing on the cam cover I have on my '72. Are there any Minwax product specifics, or is all of their poly satin clear the same stuff? I want to pick some of that up & want to get the correct product. Thanks!
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Series 1 Engine Paint Plan - Details Please
Nice results, five&dime! I assume the Minwax poly was a rattle can, or did you brush it on? I didn't ever consider that; wouldn't have thought it would take the heat.... but based on your pictures, I guess it does. Is the poly resistant to petroleum products (e,g. oil/gas/etc.)
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Series 1 Engine Paint Plan - Details Please
- battery Overcharge
That's about it, and you are rid of all of the issues that a mechanical regulator presents! Check it out here: http://www.classiczcars.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=11&cat=7 This will not resolve 'other' problems like a short, obviously.- Series 1 Engine Paint Plan - Details Please
Johnny'O - Nice work. Carl recommended a "dull aluminum" paint. I've experimented with that stuff recently, and can say IMO it gives a better final look than a clear coat. Clear coat is nice, but it darkens the media blasted surface (kind of looks 'wet', a shade or two darker). For looks, my first preference on these aluminum parts is just media blasted with no finish coat. But, the parts are prone to staining/discoloring when they encounter various fluids, and as Carl mentioned, oxidation. Second is hi-temp dull aluminum. Honestly, it makes them look great, and gives them a protective coating. Third, and still acceptable IMO, is a hi-temp clear coat. From what I see in your picture, you likely used a glossy aluminum. For my taste, and I think yours based on your comment, it's just too shiny. Give the dull stuff a try and I think you'll be quite pleased. I am using a product off the shelf at NAPA - "VHT" (Very High Temperature) Header Paint - Flat Aluminum/Aluminum Matte - Product # SP-117. Give it a try. I'm confident you will be pleased. Attached are several pictures of two parts; both glass beaded, one clear coated, the other (on the right) painted with the VHT. There are lots of other 'before & after' pictures in my gallery as well. I'm having a real blast with my blaster.... addicting, aren't they??- Ceramic Tile ~ Media Blasted 3D & Painted
This is a 3.5" X 3.25" black ceramic tile scrap that I had sitting around. It was media blasted to get a third dimension, then the blue and red paint was added as enhancement. The letters and background are the original tile finish. Stencil was hand cut making use of an old Datsun logo (cant' wait until I can get a vinyl cutter/plotter). Media was SC. - battery Overcharge
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